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Cumberland sauce: Difference between revisions





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{{short description|Fruit sauce}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=May 2022}}{{Infobox prepared food
[[File:Duck confit crepes with Cumberland sauce.jpg|thumb|Duck confit crepes with Cumberland sauce]]
| name = Cumberland sauce
'''Cumberland sauce''' is a fruit [[sauce]], usually used on non-white meats, such as [[venison]], [[ham]], and [[Lamb and mutton|lamb]]. Coming out of the long-standing [[Medieval cuisine|medieval tradition]] of piquant spicy fruit sauces rendered sharply sour with [[verjuice]] or vinegar and served with meat, but created sometime in the 19th century,<ref>''[[OED]]'' found no reference under this name before 1878; food historian Janet Clarkson, online as [http://www.theoldfoodie.com/2009/09/cumberland-sauce.html "Old Foodie", found an American reference of 1858], and quotes a port or claret and mutton gravy flavoured and coloured with a teaspoon of red current jelly in Kitchiner, ''Cook’s Oracle'', 1817.</ref> the sauce appears in various editions of ''[[Mrs Beeton's Book of Household Management]]''. The sauce was invented in Germany, according to [[Alexis Soyer]]'s recipe in ''The Gastronomic Regenerator '' (1846) for a port-wine based sauce accompanying boar’s head, which Janet Clarkson notes "contains what we think of as the required citrus note in the form of [[Seville orange]] rind (along with mustard)."<ref>[http://www.theoldfoodie.com/2009/09/cumberland-sauce.html Clarkson 2009]</ref>
| image = Roulades d'agneau et sauce Cumberland.jpg
It is a more complex version of a simple [[redcurrant sauce]].
| image_size = 250px
| caption = Lamb [[roulade]]s with Cumberland sauce
| alternate_name =
| country = Britain
| region =
| creator =
| course =
| type = Savoury sauce
| served = cold
| main_ingredient = {{hlist | [[redcurrant]]s| mustard| orange zest | wine }}
| variations =
| calories =
| other =
}}
'''Cumberland sauce''' is a savoury sauce of English origin, made with [[redcurrant]] jelly, mustard, pepper and salt, [[Blanching (cooking)|blanched]] orange peel, and [[port (wine)|port]] wine. The food writer [[Elizabeth David]] described it as "the best of all sauces for cold meat".<ref name=ed/> It is thought to be of 19th-century origin. Among the conjectural reasons for its name are honouring a [[Ernest Augustus, King of Hanover|Duke of Cumberland]] or alternatively reflecting the [[Cumberland|county of its origin]].
 
==History and contents==
Despite its German origin, today the sauce is ubiquitous in the [[Cumbria]] region of [[England]] and is thought of as a thoroughly [[Great Britain|British]] condiment.{{cn}}
Piquant spicy fruit sauces rendered sharply sour with [[verjuice]] or vinegar featured prominently in [[medieval cuisine]].<ref>Peterson, p. 11</ref> Cumberland sauce, thought to have originated in the 19th century, is in that tradition. The ''[[Oxford English Dictionary]]'' describes it as "a piquant sauce served esp. with cold meat".<ref>{{Cite OED|Cumberland sauce}}</ref> The dictionary's earliest citation for a sauce of that name is 1878, but it is mentioned in ''[[The Times]]'' six years earlier, reporting a banquet in Berlin in September 1872, attended by the Emperors [[William I, German Emperor|Wilhelm I]], [[Franz Joseph I of Austria|Franz Joseph]] and [[Alexander II of Russia|Alexander II]], at which ''hure de sanglier'' ([[boar|boar's head]]) was served with "sauce Cumberland".<ref>"The Imperial Festivities", ''The Times'', 10 September 1872, p. 4</ref> In 2009 a food historian, Janet Clarkson, identified an American citation from 1856, as well as details of some sauces from earlier in the 19th century that bore similarities to what became known as Cumberland sauce:<ref name=jc>Clarkson, Janet. [http://www.theoldfoodie.com/2009/09/cumberland-sauce.html "Cumberland Sauce"], ''Old Foodie'', 15 September 2009</ref> she instanced [[William Kitchiner]]'s, ''The Cook's Oracle'', first published in 1817, which includes an unnamed "Wine sauce for Venison or Hare" in which [[claret]] or [[port (wine)|port]] are mixed with redcurrant jelly.<ref>Kitchiner, p. 299</ref>
 
[[Elizabeth David]] found a recipe from 1853 by [[Alexis Soyer]] for what she says "is without doubt Cumberland sauce":<ref name=ed>David, pp. 70–72</ref>
Although variations exist, common ingredients include [[Ribes|red currants]] or [[Vaccinium vitis-idaea|cowberries]], [[port wine|port]] or [[claret]], dry [[Mustard (condiment)|mustard]], [[black pepper|pepper]], [[orange (fruit)|orange]], [[ginger]], red currant jelly and [[vinegar]].
{{blockquote|Cut the rind, free from pith, of two Seville oranges into very thin strips half an inch (1cm) in length, which blanch in boiling water, drain them upon a sieve and put them into a basin, with a spoonful of mixed English mustard, four of currant jelly, a little pepper, salt (mix well together) and half a pint (300ml) of good port wine.<ref name=ed/>|}}
[[File:Cumberland-sauce-advertisement.jpg|thumb|left|Advertisement in a Cumberland paper, 1859|alt=Small advertisement offering a relish at ninepence the bottle]]
Soyer described his recipe as "the German method of making a sauce to be eaten with boar's head",<ref>Soyer, p. 413</ref> and David followed up the German connection with mention of the popular belief that the sauce was named for the [[House of Hanover|Hanoverian]] prince [[Ernest Augustus, King of Hanover|Ernest Augustus, Duke of Cumberland]].<ref name=ed/> She added that a simple connection with the county of [[Cumberland]] (now part of [[Cumbria]]) was also a possibility. Two Cumberland newspapers of the 1850s repeatedly carried advertisements for a bottled Cumberland sauce, although no hint was given of the ingredients.<ref>See, e.g. front-page advertisements in the ''Carlisle Journal'' and the ''Carlisle Patriot'', 23 December 1859, and 24 December 1859</ref> After commenting that the supposed Hanoverian origin was "as good as any and better than some", David added that it was odd that Cumberland sauce is not mentioned in any 19th-century cookery book, including those by [[Eliza Acton]], [[Mrs Beeton]] and [[Charles Elmé Francatelli]]. The first printed recipe for a specifically named Cumberland sauce identified by David was in a French book about English food, published in 1904. She found further French associations: Henry Babinski described a similar sauce in his ''Gastronomie pratique'' (1907),<ref name=ed/> and [[Auguste Escoffier]] popularised it and printed his recipe in the "Sauces anglaises froides" section of his ''Ma cuisine'' (1934), particularly commending the sauce as an accompaniment to cold venison.<ref>Escoffier, p. 43</ref>
 
In David's view it is "the best of all sauces for cold meat – ham, pressed beef, tongue, venison, boar's head or pork brawn".<ref name=ed/> More recently [[Michel Roux|Michel Roux, Sr.]] wrote of Cumberland sauce that it was his favourite sauce for terrines, pâtés and game. "We often serve it at [[The Waterside Inn]] and I never tire of it. It adds an entirely new dimension to a pork pie bought from the delicatessen".<ref>Roux, p. 73</ref>
 
A Polish variant omits mustard and wine, adds [[horseradish]], and fries the orange zest before adding it to the mixture.<ref>Pininska, p. 120</ref> A New Zealand version adds grated [[beetroot]].<ref>Parsons, p. 90</ref> Recipes for more or less the generic version on Soyer's lines appear in cookery books from, among other countries, the Czech Republic, France, Germany, Ireland, Spain, Sweden and the US.<ref>Pawlowská, p. 230; Escoffier, p. 43; Swann, p. 22; Johnson, p. 201; Bardají, p. 120; Bauer, p. 143; and Stamm, p. 39</ref>
 
==See also==
 
* [[List of foods named after people]]
 
==Notes==
{{Reflist}}
==Sources==
*{{cite book | last = Bardají | first = Teodoro | title = Índice culinario | date = 1993 | location = Zaragoza | publisher = Val de Onsera | isbn = 978-84-88518-05-7 }}
*{{cite book | last = Bauer | first = Mange | title = I'll take the same – Mat på mitt vis | date = 2012 | location = Norderstedt | publisher = Books on Demand | isbn = 978-91-7463-045-9 }}
*{{cite book | last = David | first = Elizabeth | title = Spices, Salt and Aromatics in the English Kitchen | date = 2000 | origyear = 1970 | location = London | publisher = Grub Street | isbn = 978-1-902304-66-3 }}
*{{cite book | last = Escoffier | first = Auguste | title = Ma cuisine | date = 1965 | origyear = 1934 | location = London | publisher = Hamlyn | isbn = 978-0-600-02450-7 }}
*{{cite book | last = Johnson | first = Margaret | title = The Irish Heritage Cookbook | date = 1999 | location = San Francisco | publisher = Chronicle Books | oclc = 1035753570 }}
*{{cite book | last = Kitchiner | first = William | title = The Cook's Oracle: Containing Practical Receipts | date = 1827 | location = London | publisher = Simpkin & Marshall | oclc = 1040257989 }}
*{{cite book | last = Parsons | first = Pamela | title = Simply New Zealand: A Culinary Journey | date = 1999 | location = Auckland | publisher = New Holland | isbn = 978-1-877246-26-5}}
*{{cite book | last = Pawlowská | first = Halina | title = Chuť do života | date= 2014 | location = Prague | publisher = Motto | isbn = 978-80-267-0155-2 }}
*{{cite book | last = Peterson | first = James | title = Sauces: Classical and Contemporary Sauce Making | date = 2017 | location = Boston and New York | publisher = Houghton Mifflin Harcourt | isbn = 978-0-544-81982-5 }}
*{{cite book | last = Pininska | first = Mary | title = The Polish Kitchen | date= 1991 | location = London | publisher = Papermac | isbn = 978-0-333-56871-2 }}
*{{cite book | last = Roux | first = Michel | title = Sauces: Sweet and Savoury, Classic and New | date = 1998 | location = London | publisher = Quadrille | isbn = 978-1-899988-38-9 }}
*{{cite book | last = Soyer | first = Alexis | title = The Gastronomic Regenerator | date = 1847 | location = London | publisher = Simpkin & Marshall | oclc = 969501531 }}
*{{cite book | last = Stamm | first = Sara | title = The Park Avenue Cookbook | date = 1981 | location = Garden City | publisher = Doubleday | isbn = 978-0-385-15585-4 }}
*{{cite book | last = Swann | first = Peter | title = Ofengerichte | date = 2006 | location = Bath | publisher = Parragon | isbn = 978-1-4054-6340-9 }}
 
==External links==
 
*[http://www.cooksrecipes.com/sauce/cumberland-sauce-recipe.html Recipe at Cooksrecipes.com]
*[http://www.chefdecuisine.com/course/sauce/CUMBERLAND_SAUCE.php Recipe at Chef De Cuisine.com]
 
*[http://www.chefdecuisine.com/course/sauce/CUMBERLAND_SAUCE.php Recipe at Chef de Cuisine.com] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20130307125756/http://www.chefdecuisine.com/course/sauce/CUMBERLAND_SAUCE.php |date=7 March 2013 }}
===Notations===
* {{cite book|author=Escoffier, Auguste|title=The Escoffier Cookbook|publisher=Crown Publishers, Inc.|year=1989|isbn=0-517-50662-9}}
 
{{portal bar|Food}}
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[[Category:Cumbrian cuisine]]
[[Category:German sauces]]
[[Category:Wild game dishes]]
[[Category:Foods with alcoholic drinks]]
[[Category:Citrus dishes]]

Retrieved from "https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cumberland_sauce"
 




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