North Twin (Peak) is one of the two main peaks that comprise The Twins massif located at the northeast corner of the Columbia IcefieldinJasper National Park, Alberta, Canada. The other lower peak is named South Twin (3,566 m). North Twin is the third-highest peak in the Canadian Rockies, after Mount Robson and Mount Columbia.
| North Twin Peak | |
|---|---|
The Twins massif - South Twin (left) and North Twin (right)
| |
| Highest point | |
| Elevation | 3,730 m (12,240 ft)[1][2][Notes 1] |
| Prominence | 1,011 m (3,317 ft)[Notes 2] |
| Parent peak | Mount Columbia (3747 m)[1] |
| Listing |
|
| Coordinates | 52°13′25″N 117°26′04″W / 52.2237°N 117.4344°W / 52.2237; -117.4344[1] |
| Geography | |
  North Twin Peak Alberta, Canada | |
| Parent range | Winston Churchill Range |
| Topo map | NTS 83C3 Columbia Icefield |
| Climbing | |
| First ascent | 1923 by W.S. Ladd, J. Monroe Thorington, guided by Conrad Kain[4] |
| Easiest route | glacier/snowfield ski |
The massif was named The Twins in 1898 by J. Norman Collie and Hugh M. Stutfield. The decision to name the peaks separately was approved February 28, 1980.
In addition to North Twin and South Twin, the massif contains a northern subpeak of North Twin known as Twins Tower, 3,627 m (11,900 ft) (see lower photo). This sits atop the famed north face of the massif (see below), and was named in 1984. Further, another subpeak in the massif is known as West Twin 3,360 m (11,024 ft), a picture of which can be found in the South Twin Gallery - access to this peak is from the north–south col.
The first ascent of North Twin was recorded on 10 July 1923 by W.S. Ladd, J.M. Thorington, and Conrad Kain, via the East Face.[1]
The normal route is a ski mountaineering climb on the eastern slopes, and it is possible to ski all the way to the summit. A traverse can be made to the South Twin, although an ice axe is recommended for the narrow connecting ridge.
The nearly vertical north face drops over 1,500 m (4,921 ft) from Twins Tower to the Athabasca River - the true summit of North Twin is somewhat removed from the top of the north face. The north face is renowned in climbing circles and has been climbed by only four parties:
