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{{Short description|Sheer, plain-woven cotton fabric}} |
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{{refimprove|date=February 2011}} |
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[[File:Xiquets Torrent - Organdí (26675711050).jpg|thumb|right|Little girl in an organdy dress. Circa 1900. [[Valencian Museum of Ethnology]] collection.]] |
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'''Organdy''' or '''organdie''' is the [[Sheer (textile)|sheer]]est and crispest [[cotton]] cloth made.<ref>Le Van, Marthe (2009). [http://books.google.com/books?id=fJlcB_ne2OAC&pg=PA10 ''Stitched Jewels: Jewelry That's Sewn, Stuffed, Gathered & Frayed''], p. 10. Sterling Publishing Co., Inc.</ref> [[Combing|Combed yarns]] contribute to its appearance. |
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'''Organdy''', also spelled '''Organdie''',<ref name=":1" /> is a kind of [[Textile|fabric]]. It is a lightweight, balanced [[plain weave]] made of [[cotton]] with features of [[Sheer fabric|sheerness]] and crispness.<ref>{{Cite book|last=Elsasser|first=Virginia Hencken|url=http://archive.org/details/textiles00virg|title=Textiles : concepts and principles|date=2005|publisher=New York, NY : Fairchild Publications|others=Internet Archive|isbn=978-1-56367-300-9|pages=126, 225}}</ref><ref>Le Van, Marthe (2009). [https://books.google.com/books?id=fJlcB_ne2OAC&pg=PA10 ''Stitched Jewels: Jewelry That's Sewn, Stuffed, Gathered & Frayed''], p. 10. Sterling Publishing Co., Inc.</ref> |
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== Characteristics == |
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==Description== |
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Organdy is a stiffened material; sheerest among its peers, which include [[lawn cloth]] and [[Batiste]]. Often, these materials may come from the same [[Greige goods|grey goods]], and are differentiated from each other in how they are [[Finishing (textiles)|finished]]. Organdy's sheerness and crispness are attributed to the acid finish (parchmentising) whereas the lawn cloth is finished with starch or resin, and Batiste is a softer fabric type.<ref name=":0">{{Cite book |last=Hollen |first=Norma R. |url=http://archive.org/details/textiles000holl |title=Textiles |last2=Saddler |first2=Jane |date=1968 |publisher=New York, Macmillan |others=Internet Archive |pages=139, 140, 189}}</ref><ref name=":1" /> Finer yarns with higher twist counts are used in superior quality organdy.<ref name=":1" /> |
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Organdy is a balanced [[plain weave]].<ref>Nielson, Karla J. (2007). [http://books.google.com/books?id=1wRk1gaOK0QC&pg=PA74 ''Interior Textiles: Fabrics, Application, & Historic Style''], p. 74. John Wiley and Sons.</ref> Because of its stiffness and fiber content, it is very prone to wrinkling. [[Organza]] is the [[Filament (textiles)|filament]] [[yarn]] counterpart to organdy. |
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Organdy is an acid stiffened cloth. Its sheerness and crispness is the result of an [[acid]] finish, where the fabric is treated with [[sulfuric acid]] solution for a short period and then neutralized to remove excessive acid in a process called "[[parchmentising|parchmentisation]]". The parchmentisation is a treatment of acid on cellulosic textiles in the pursuit of obtaining the characteristic of the [[parchment]]. The finish offers a stiffened and translucent effect not dissimilar from silk [[organza]].<ref>{{Cite book|last=Joseph|first=Marjory L.|url=http://archive.org/details/josephsintroduct06edjose|title=Joseph's introductory textile science|date=1992|publisher=Fort Worth : Harcourt Brace Jovanovich College Publishers|others=Internet Archive|isbn=978-0-03-050723-6|pages=343}}</ref> Figured Organdy is produced by applying an acid-resisting substance to a localised area; on the contrary, immersing it completely makes it stiffen all over. The objective of all-over parchmentizing is to create a transparent cloth.<ref name=":0" /> |
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Organdy was historically used for [[Wedding dress|bridal dresses]], ladies party dresses, and [[Blouse|blouses]]. Organdy was a useful material as a [[Casement cloth]], sheers, and [[Lining (sewing)|lining]] etc.<ref name=":1">{{Cite book|last=Humphries|first=Mary|url=http://archive.org/details/fabricreference0000hump|title=Fabric reference|date=1996|publisher=Upper Saddle River, N.J. : Prentice Hall|others=Internet Archive|isbn=978-0-13-349671-0|pages=169, 5, 7}}</ref> In the late 19th through mid 20th centuries, young girls wore dresses made of organdy.<ref>{{Cite book|last=Dolan|first=Maryanne|url=http://archive.org/details/vintageclothing10000dola_t7v9|title=Vintage clothing, 1880-1960 : identification & value guide|date=1987|publisher=Florence, Ala. : Books Americana|others=Internet Archive|isbn=978-0-89689-063-3|pages=99}}</ref> In the 21st century, this material has fallen out of favor in the childrenswear market because of its tendency to wrinkle, which can be attributed to its stiffness.<ref name=":0" /> Today, organdy is most often seen in [[Haute couture|high fashion]] collections by designers such as [[Marc Jacobs]]. |
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==See also== |
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Hey everyone |
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Its sheerness and crispness are the result of an [[acid]] finish on greige (unbleached or grey/beige) [[Lawn cloth|lawn]] goods. |
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It comes in three types of finishes: "Stiff" is most commonly used, but "Semi stiff" and "Soft" finishes are also available. The latter two finishes are more popular for summer wear and draped apparel whereas the first is more popular for loose apparel and home textiles such as dresses and curtains. |
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==References== |
==References== |
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==Sources== |
==Sources== |
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{{cite book |
* {{cite book |
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| last = Tortora |
| last = Tortora |
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| first = Phyllis |
| first = Phyllis |
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| |
| author-link = Phyllis Tortora |
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| title = Fairchild's Dictionary of Textiles 7th Edition |
| title = Fairchild's Dictionary of Textiles 7th Edition |
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| publisher = [[Fairchild Publications, Inc.|Fairchild]] |
| publisher = [[Fairchild Publications, Inc.|Fairchild]] |
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| isbn = 0-87005-707-3 |
| isbn = 0-87005-707-3 |
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| page = 396 }} |
| page = 396 }} |
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{{fabric}} |
{{fabric}} |
Organdy, also spelled Organdie,[1] is a kind of fabric. It is a lightweight, balanced plain weave made of cotton with features of sheerness and crispness.[2][3]
Organdy is a stiffened material; sheerest among its peers, which include lawn cloth and Batiste. Often, these materials may come from the same grey goods, and are differentiated from each other in how they are finished. Organdy's sheerness and crispness are attributed to the acid finish (parchmentising) whereas the lawn cloth is finished with starch or resin, and Batiste is a softer fabric type.[4][1] Finer yarns with higher twist counts are used in superior quality organdy.[1]
Organdy is an acid stiffened cloth. Its sheerness and crispness is the result of an acid finish, where the fabric is treated with sulfuric acid solution for a short period and then neutralized to remove excessive acid in a process called "parchmentisation". The parchmentisation is a treatment of acid on cellulosic textiles in the pursuit of obtaining the characteristic of the parchment. The finish offers a stiffened and translucent effect not dissimilar from silk organza.[5] Figured Organdy is produced by applying an acid-resisting substance to a localised area; on the contrary, immersing it completely makes it stiffen all over. The objective of all-over parchmentizing is to create a transparent cloth.[4]
Organdy was historically used for bridal dresses, ladies party dresses, and blouses. Organdy was a useful material as a Casement cloth, sheers, and lining etc.[1] In the late 19th through mid 20th centuries, young girls wore dresses made of organdy.[6] In the 21st century, this material has fallen out of favor in the childrenswear market because of its tendency to wrinkle, which can be attributed to its stiffness.[4] Today, organdy is most often seen in high fashion collections by designers such as Marc Jacobs.
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