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Title: A Chronological History of The Voyages and Discoveries in
the South Sea or Pacific Ocean.
Author: James Burney
* A Project Gutenberg of Australia eBook *
eBook No.: 0600611h.hrml
Edition: 1
Language: English
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Title: A Chronological History of The Voyages and Discoveries in
the South Sea or Pacific Ocean.
Author: James Burney
Being Chapter IV and VII of Volume III of BIBLIOTHECA AUSTRALIANA #5 JAMES BURNEY A CHRONOLOGICAL HISTORY OF VOYAGES AND DISCOVERIES IN THE SOUTH SEAS Volume 3 N. ISRAEL/AMSTERDAM DA CAPO PRESS/NEW YORK Published 1967 A Facsimile of: A CHRONOLOGICAL HISTORY OF THE VOYAGES AND DISCOVERIES IN THE SOUTH SEA OR PACIFIC OCEAN. PART III. From the Year 1620, to the Year 1688. ILLUSTRATED WITH CHARTS AND OTHER PLATES. By JAMES BURNEY, CAPTAIN IN THE ROYAL NAVY. LONDON. 1813.
Thus appears the Island Mauritius as you lie at anchor in the
South East Port, opposite the Fort Fredrik Hendrik.
{Page 65}
The 5th, our shallop went fishing, and returned with excellent
fish for all the ship's crew.
The 6th, we endeavoured to get through the SE channel, but were
obliged to give it up. Caught fish for all the crew.
The 7th, the wind continued Easterly. In the evening, we came to
anchor under the Islands which are before the Bay, and had 17 fathoms
muddy bottom. It is very difficult to get out of this Bay, the South
Easterly winds blowing here so continually. No vessel ought to come
in here unless for business.
The 8th, in the morning, we had a breeze from shore with rainy
weather. We weighed anchor, but the wind came contrary, and we were
obliged to anchor again. About 8 o'clock, the wind changed and blew
from NEbE. We weighed anchor, and stood out South Eastward to sea:
for which the Lord be praised.
This Island Mauritius, its South part, is in 20° 12' S,
and in longitude 78° 47' E from Tenerife. We kept our
course SSE.
The 9th, the wind was from between the East and SE, and we stood
to the Southward.
The 12th, the variation was 23° 30' NW.
[After the 12th, the winds were variable, and the course was
directed South Eastward.]
The 27th, in the morning, we saw a great deal of duck weed. We
held a Council, and it was resolved to keep a man constantly at the
topmast head to look out; and that whoever first discovered land,
sands, or banks under water, should receive a reward of three reals
and a pot of arrack. Our latitude this day by account was 43° S,
and our longitude 88° 6'. In the afternoon, we had variation
26° 45' NWesterly.
[1642 November]
November the 4th, at noon, our latitude by account was 48° 25'
S. In the afternoon on comparing with the master and the steersmen,
we found our middle longitude[*] to be
107° 25'.
[* The longitude by the mean of all the reckonings.
]
{Page 66}
Saw several patches of duck weed: we had a great many thunnies
about the ship, and we also saw a seal, which made us conjecture that
some Islands might be hereabouts. At night we shortened sail.
The 6th, we had a storm from the West, with hail and snow: the
weather very cold. At noon, latitude 49° 4' S. longitude 114°
56'. The variation was 26°.
The 7th, the wind was Westerly with hail and snow. This morning we
held Council; and the following was delivered to us by our first
Pilot, as the advice of himself and the Steersmen.
"According to the large map of the South Sea, the Eastern
part of the Salomon Isles is in 205°; the longitude
beginning with the Piko de Teneriffe, being at present used by
every body. 6 The longitude of Batavia is 127° 5'; and the
longitude of Hoorn Islands 185° 45'. This is our advice:
that we should keep to the parallel of 44° S latitude till we
have passed 150° longitude: and then make for latitude 40° S,
and keeping in that parallel, to run Eastward to 220° longitude:
and then steering Northward, search with the trade wind from East to
West for the Salomon Islands. We imagine if we meet with no
main-land till we come to 150° longitude, we must then meet with
Islands. "Undersigned, Francis Jacobsz."
Whereupon we resolved with our Council and Steersmen to steer NE
to latitude 45° or 44° S.
The 10th, we had fine weather. We supposed our latitude to be
44° S; but at noon we found we were in 43° 20'. Longitude
126° 45'. The variation was 21° 30' NWesterly. The sea ran
very high from the SW, and sometimes from the SE.
The 17th, we continued to see much sea weed floating. The sea
still ran high from the SW, wherefore we presume that there is no
large tract of land to the South. Latitude at noon 44° 15'.
Longitude 147° 3'. We believed we had already passed the
Anthony Van Diemen's Landt Besijht en ontdekt in den Jare 1642
den 24e Novemb.
{Page 67}
South land at present known, or that we were at least as far
Eastward as Pieter Nuyts had been.
The 18th, we saw whales. The variation was 12° NWesterly.
During the night, we lay to, and at day-light sailed on again
Eastward.
The 19th, our latitude at noon was 45° 5' S. Longitude
153° 34' E. In the morning the variation was 8°
NWesterly.
The 22d, at noon, we found the latitude 42° 49'. Our longitude
160° 34'. Our compass was not steady as it should be. It may be
that there are loadstones hereabouts, as our compasses do not stand
still within eight points. There is something which keeps the needle
in continual motion.[*] We have found
the great NW variation decrease very suddenly.
The 23d, found our latitude at noon 42° 50'. Longitude
162° 51'.
The 24th, we had fine weather and a clear sky, with light wind
from SW and South. Held our course EbN. At noon found the latitude
was 42° 25' S. Longitude 163° 31'. In the afternoon, about
four o'clock, we saw land bearing EbN, distant from us by conjecture
ten miles. The land was very high, and towards evening we saw high
mountains to the ESE, and to the NE two smaller mountains. Our
compass here stood right. We had a light breeze from SE, and resolved
to run off in the night five hours to sea, and then to run back again
towards the land.[+] We sounded in the
night, and had ground at 100 fathoms, fine white sand with small
shells. We sounded afterwards, and had black gravel.
The 25th, in the morning, it was calm. Towards noon, the wind came
from SE, and afterwards from the South. We steered towards the shore,
and about five o'clock in the afternoon were within three miles, and
had soundings at 60 fathoms, the bottom coral. We ran nearer the
coast, and at one mile distance had fine white
[* A similar instance of unsteadiness in the needle was
observed near Cape Horne by the Nassau Fleet.]
[+ The track on Captain Tasman's chart of Van Diemen's
Land, is not so minutely drawn as to show all the variations of
course mentioned in the Journal.]
{Page 68}
small sand. The coast here lies NbW and SbE, and is level. We were
here in latitude 42° 30', and middle longitude 163° 50'. When
you come from the West, and find the NW variation suddenly decrease,
you may then look out for the land. Near the coast here, the needle
points true North. As this land has not before been known to any
European, we called it Antony Van Diemen's Land, in honour of
our High Magistrate the Governor General, who sent us out to make
discoveries. The Islands near us we named in honour of the Council of
India, as you may see by the little map we made.
The 26th, we had Easterly wind with rain, and did not see the
land. At noon, we hoisted the flag to speak the Zeehaan, and ordered
Mr. Gillemans to come on board, to whom we declared the reasons
mentioned in a letter, which we gave him to shew to Gerrit Janszoon,
the master of the Zeehaan, and to the mates; and which is as
follows.
"The Officers of the Zeehaan are directed to mark in their
Journals, longitude 163° 50' for the land we saw yesterday, which
we found it to be upon comparing our accounts; and therefore we have
fixed this longitude, and shall begin again from here to reckon the
longitude. The Commander of the Zeehaan is to give this order to the
steersmen. The maps also made of this land should place it in
longitude 163° 50' as before mentioned.
"Undersigned, Abel Jansen Tasman."
At noon, we judged our latitude to be 43° 36' S. Longitude
163° 2'.
The 27th, in the morning, we saw the coast again. The wind was NE,
with foggy rainy weather. We steered ESE. Our latitude at noon by
account 44° 4' S. Longitude 164° 2'. At the fourth hour of
the night, it being very dark, we lay to.
The 28th, in the morning, we made sail Eastward. Saw the land NE
from us, and stood towards it. The direction of the coast is here
SEbE and NWbW. At noon, our latitude we
{Page 69}
supposed 44° 12' S; longitude 165° 2'. The wind NW, a
light breeze. In the evening, we came near three small Islands, one
of which has the shape of a lion's head, and is about three miles
from the main land. During the night we lay to.
The 29th, in the morning, we were still near the cliff which is
shaped like a lion's head. We sailed along the coast which extends
here East and West. Towards mid-day we passed two cliffs, the Western
of which resembles the Pedra branca near the coast of
China. The Eastern has the appearance of a high mishapen
tower, [Hooge plomp Tore], and is about four miles from the
large land. We passed between this cliff and the main land. At noon,
our latitude by account was 43° 53' S. Longitude 166° 3'.[*] We continued our course along the
coast, and about five in the afternoon, we came near to a Bay which
seemed to be a good Road, and we resolved to make for it. When we
were almost in the Bay, a storm arose which obliged us to take in
sail, and return to sea, it not being possible for us with so much
wind to anchor the ships.[+]
The 30th. We had been driven so far off in the night, that at
daylight we could scarcely see the land. We had variable winds this
day, and endeavoured to get in with the shore. At noon, the land bore
NW from us.
[1642 December]
December the 1st, we found our latitude at noon 43° 10' S, our
longitude 167° 55'. In the afternoon, we had an Easterly
[* According to Tasman's Chart and the situation here
noted, the ship was advanced at noon, near 4 leagues to the East or
ENE beyond the two Cliffs.]
[+ The Bay from which Tasman was thus forced by a storm,
is named in his chart Stoorm Bay. The anchorage he aimed at,
is the same where Captain Furneaux stopped in 1773, and which he
named Adventure Bay. In Tasman's general sketch of Van
Diemen's Land, there is no mark of any inlet or arm of the sea
running into the land; but in a separate plan which he has given of
Stoorm Bay, openings are left in the coast; and also Westward
of the Bay, the coast is drawn receding Northward, corresponding with
the discovery made in 17Q2, by M. D'Entrecasteaux, of a Strait or
passage through to the NE, which separates the SW part of the land
forming Tasman's Stoorm Bay from the other part of Van
Diemen's Land.]
{Page 70}
breeze, and an hour after sunset, we anchored in a good port in 22
fathoms, the bottom fine light grey sand.
The 2d, early in the morning, we sent our first steersman with our
shallop, and a boat of the Zeehaan well armed, to a Bay a good mile
towards the North West from us, to look for fresh water,
refreshments, or any other things. They returned three hours before
night, and brought some greens of a kind which grow at the Cape of
Good Hope and may be used in the place of wormwood; and some of
another kind which was long and saltish like sea parsley ('Pieter
Celij du mair'). The steersman and the mate of the Zeehaan gave
the following account.--They rowed round the point a good mile, where
they found good fresh water, but which flowed so slowly, that whilst
they staid they could get only one pailful. The greens, such as they
brought, grew in great quantity. They heard human voices, and a sound
like that of a trumpet or little gong not far off, but they could see
nobody. They saw two trees which were each from two to two and a half
fathoms big,[*] and tall from the ground to the branches 60 to 65 feet.
The bark had been taken off with flint stones, and steps were cut for
people to climb up to search the nests of the birds. These steps were
full five feet one from the other, whence it was conjectured that the
people here must be very tall, or that they used some artifice in
climbing. They observed on the ground the traces of some animals
resembling the marks made by the claws of a tiger; and they brought
on board the excrements of some quadruped, as we supposed. They also
brought pieces of good looking gums, which dropped from the trees,
some like the gumma lacca. At the East corner of this Bay,
they had soundings at 13 and 14 feet: the tide ebbed and flowed about
three feet. Before the said corner they saw people; and some wild
ducks, and geese. They took no fish except muscles which stuck to
little
[* Most probably in circumference.]
Stoorm Bay and Marias Eylandt.
{Page 71}
bushes. The country was all over furnished with trees which stood
thin, so that one might pass through every where, and distinguish
objects at a distance, without hindrance from bushes or underwood.
Many of the trees were burnt deep in near the ground. Smokes also
were observed rising in several places in the woods.
The 3d, we went with our shallop to the SE part of this Bay, where
we found water, but the land was low and the water saltish. In the
afternoon, we went to a little Bay WSW from our ships; but it came to
blow, and the surf was high. We however let our carpenter swim to the
shore, where he set up a post, and left the Prince's flag' flying
upon it. This was nigh to four remarkable trees which stand in form
of a crescent. When the carpenter had erected the post with the flag,
he swam back to us through the surf, and we returned on board. In the
evening, we observed 3° NE variation. We lay at anchor here in
43° S latitude, and longitude 167° 30'.[*]
The 4th, in the morning, we got under sail, with a NW wind, and
steered to the Northward as close as we could, that we might look for
a watering place. In the evening we saw a round mountain about eight
miles NNW from us. We kept
[* Names are not given in the Journal to the Bays or
Capes seen of this land, or to the Islands near it. It is probable
they were afterwards assigned on making the charts. In the chart of
the Bay where Tasman anchored is inserted the name Frederik
Hendrik's Bay, but disposed in such manner as to cause a belief
that it was applied only to the inner harbour, which the boats
visited on December the 2d . In 1772, M. Marion anchored in the same
Bay in which Tasman had anchored so many years before; and it appears
in the short account published of his Voyage, that he considered it
to be the Frederik Hendrik's Bay of Tasman. The late French
charts however, apply the name solely to the inner port, which seems
to have been the intention of the first discoverers; and to the
anchorage of Abel Tasman and Marion, assign the name of Marion's
Bay.]
By some mistake in Valentyn, the ship's place on the 1st of December
at noon, is given for the situation of Frederik Hendrik's Bay.
The chart of Van Diemen's Land, likewise, in Valentyn, though
the outline of coast is the same as in Tasman's chart, is marked
differently in longitude, and not agreeing with the
Journal.
{Page 72}
our course close to the wind N Eastward. Several smokes of fires
were seen along the coast all the day. Here I should give a
description of the extent of the coast, and the Islands near it; but
I hope to be excused, and refer for brevity's sake to the Map made of
it and joined herewith.
The 5th, we kept our course as before, and lost sight of the land,
the part last seen being the round mountain, which was then due West,
six miles from us. We assembled the Council, and resolved to keep our
course Eastward to longitude 195°. At noon, our latitude was by
account 41° 34' S. Longitude 169°.
The 11th, the variation was 7° N Easterly.
The 12th, we had a high sea from the SW.
The 13th, our latitude was 42° 10' S. Longitude 188° 28'.
Towards noon, we saw a large high land[*] about 15 miles SSE from us. We steered
towards it, but the wind was light and variable. In the evening, we
had a breeze, and steered East.
The 14th, at noon, we were about two miles from the shore. Our
latitude was 42° 10' S; longitude 189° 3'. This is a high
double land. We could not get sight of the tops of the mountains for
dark clouds. We sailed along the coast Northward, so close that we
could see the waves break on the shore. We had soundings at two miles
distance, 55 fathoms grey sand. In the evening and night it was calm,
and a current set from the WNW which made us approach the shore, so
we anchored with our stream anchor in 28 fathoms, muddy bottom.
The 15th, in the morning, having a light wind, we weighed and
stood farther from shore, and then kept our course Northward. At noon
our latitude was 41° 40' S; longitude 189° 49'. We did not
perceive any people, or the smokes of fires upon the land: and we
could see that near the sea-coast the land was barren.
[* This discovery was at first named Staten Land; but
afterwards, NEW ZEALAND.]
State_land ont_dekt den 13 December 1642.
{Page 73}
The 16th, we had little wind. Latitude at noon 40° 58' S. At
sunset, we found variation 9° 23' N Easterly. The Northern
extremity of the land in sight bore EbN from us. We steered towards
it NE and ENE. In the second watch, we had soundings at 60 fathoms,
fine grey sand.
The 17th, at sunrise, we were about one mile from shore, and saw
smoke rising in different places. At noon, latitude by account
40° 32' S; longitude 190° 47'. In the afternoon we sailed
EbS, along a low land full of sand hills; having soundings at 30
fathoms depth, black sand. At sunset we anchored in 17 fathoms, near
a sandy point of land, within which we saw a large open Bay, three or
four miles wide. From this sandy point, a shoal or sand bank runs off
a mile to the ESE, which lies under water, with six, seven, and eight
feet depth: when you have passed this shoal, you can enter the Bay.[*] Variation here 9° N Easterly.
The 18th. In the morning we weighed anchor, and stood into the
Bay; our shallop and a boat of the Zeehaan going in before us to look
for good anchorage and a watering place. At sunset it was calm, and
we cast anchor in 15 fathoms, good muddy ground. An hour after
sunset, we saw several lights on the land, and four vessels coming
from the shore towards us. Two of these were our own boats. The
people in the other two called to us in a strong rough voice. What
they said, we did not understand; however, we called to them again in
place of an answer. They repeated their cries several times, but did
not come nearer than a stone's throw: they sounded also an instrument
which made a noise like a Moorish trumpet; and we answered by blowing
our trumpet. This was done on
[* In a view given in the Manuscript Journal of the coast
at this part, a remark is inserted that this shoal or bank extends
three miles Eastward and Southward from the sandy point. The Chart,
however, agrees with what is said-in the Journal, as
above.]
{Page 74}
both sides several times. When it grew dark, they left off, and
went away. We kept good watch all night, with our guns ready.
The 19th, in the morning, a boat of the natives having 13 men in
it, came near our ship; but not nearer than a stone's throw. They
called to us several times, but their language had nothing in it like
to the vocabulary of the Salomon Islands given to us by the
General and Council at BATAVIA. These people, as well as we could
judge, were of our own common stature, strong boned, and of a rough
voice. Their colour is between brown and yellow; their hair black,
which they tie up on the crown of the head, like to the Japanese, and
wear a large white feather upright in it.[*] Their vessels were two narrow long canoes
fastened together, upon which, boards were fixed to sit on. Their
paddles were more than a fathom long, and were pointed at the end.
Their clothing seemed to us to be of mats, or of cotton: but most of
them went with their breast naked.
We showed them fish, linen, and knives, to invite them to come to
us; hut they would not, and at length rowed back to the land. In the
meantime, the Officers of the Zeehaan came on board us, and we
resolved to go nearer to the shore with our ships, as here is good
anchorage, and the people seemed to be desirous of our friendship.
Immediately after we had taken this resolution, we saw seven vessels
coming from the shore. One of them in which were 17 men, came very
quick, and turned round behind the Zeehaan. Another with 13 stout men
came within half a stone's throw of our ship. They called out one to
the other several times. We showed them, as before, white linen: but
they lay still. The Master of the Zeehaan, Gerard Janszoon, who was
on board of our ship, ordered his boat, in which were a
quarter-master and six seamen, to go to his ship,
[* This part of the New Zealander's dress is omitted in
the drawing. In Valentyn it has been supplied on the authority of the
narrative.]
Thus appears Moordenaars Bay as you are at anchor there in 15
fathoms.
{Page 75}
to carry directions to the mates to keep on their guard, and that
in case these people should come along side, not to allow too many of
them to enter the ship at one time. When the Zeehaan's boat put off
from our ship, the natives in the praws or canoes nearest to
us, gave a loud call to those who were behind the Zeehaan, and made a
signal with their paddles, the meaning of which we could not guess.
But when the boat of the Zeehaan had gone quite clear from our ship,
the canoes of the natives which were between our two ships made
furiously towards her, and ran with their beaks violently against
her, so as to make her heel and take in water; and the foremost of
these villains, with a blunt pointed pike, gave the quarter-master,
Cornelius Joppe, a violent blow in his neck which made him fall
overboard. The others then attacked the rest of our boat's crew with
their paddles, and with short thick clubs (which we had in the
beginning supposed to be clumsy parangs[*]) and overcame them. In this scuffle, three of
the Zeehaan's men were killed, and one was mortally wounded. The
quarter-master and two seamen swam for our ship, and we sent our boat
which took them up alive. After the fight, these murderers took one
of our dead people into their canoe: another of our dead men fell
overboard and sunk. They let the boat go. Our ship and the Zeehaan
fired at them with our muskets and guns, but we did not hit them, and
they paddled away to the shore. We sent our boat to bring back the
boat of the Zeehaan, wherein we found one of her men dead, and one
mortally wounded.
After this, there could no friendly intercourse take place between
us and the natives, nor could we hope to obtain water or refreshments
here; so we weighed anchor and set sail. When we were under sail,
twenty-two of their boats put off from the shore and advanced towards
us. Eleven of them were full of people. When they were come within
reach of our guns, we
[* Parangs are knives used in some parts of the East
Indies for cutting wood.]
{Page 76}
fired two shot at them, but without effect. The Zeehaan fired
also, and hit a man in their foremost canoe, who was standing with a
white flag in his hand, so that he fell down. We heard our grape shot
clash against their canoes, but we know not what the effect was,
except that it caused them suddenly to retreat towards the shore,
where they lay still and did not come towards us again.
We named this Bay Moordenaar's Bay, [i.e. Murderer's
Bay.] The part in which we anchored is in 40° 50' S latitude,
and in longitude 191° 30'. Variation there, 9° 30' N
Easterly. From Moordenaar's Bay we steered ENE; but during the
night we sailed backward and forward, having soundings from 26 to 15
fathoms.
This is the second Land discovered by us. We named it Staten
Land in honour of the States General. It is possible that this
land joins to the Staten Land;[*]
but it is uncertain. It is a very fine country, and we hope it is
part of the Unknown South Continent.
The 20th, in the morning, we saw land nearly all round us, so that
we have sailed perhaps 30 miles into a Bay. We at first thought the
place where we had anchored was an Island, and that we should find a
clear passage [Eastward] to the Great South Sea; but to our
great disappointment we find it otherwise. The wind being from the
Westward, we did all in our power to turn to windward to get back the
way we had come. At noon we were in latitude 40° 51' S. Longitude
192° 55'. In
[* Meaning the Staten Land to the East of the
Tierra del Fuego, discovered and so named by Schouten and Le
Maire. The supposition that both Schouten and Le Maire's discovery
and his own might form part of one and the same great Continent, led
Tasman to apply the name on the present occasion; and singularly
enough, in the last year in which it could have been allowable: for
in the year which next followed, the Expedition of Hendrik Brower to
Chili, deprived Schouten and Le Maire's Staten Land of
the honour of being any longer conjectured to be Continental Land.
And Tasman's Staten Land being thereby proved a separate Land
from Schouten and Le Maire's discovery, its name was, not long
afterwards, changed for that of NEW ZEALAND, which name it still
retains.]
{Page 77}
the afternoon it was calm, and the current ran strong into the
Bay. The land all around seems to be good fine land. The sea coast is
low, but the land within is high enough. We found a muddy anchoring
ground, at 60, 50, and to 15 fathoms depth, about 1½ or 2
miles from shore. We had light winds all the afternoon.
The 21st, in the second watch of the night, a breeze came from the
West, and we sailed Northward. We found the coast of the Northern
land to extend towards the NW. In the morning, it began to blow
fresh. After breakfast we put about, and stood towards the South
coast. Towards evening, we ran for shelter within a small Island
which we brought to bear NNW of us, and then cast anchor in 33
fathoms, the bottom sand and shells. We had other Islands and cliffs
near us. Our latitude here was 40° 50', and longitude 192°
37'.[*] It blew so hard in the night
that we let go another anchor and got down the topmasts, as did the
Zeehaan.
The 22d and 23d, the gale continued strong from the NW, with dark
foggy weather. The Zeehaan was almost forced from her anchors.
The 24th, in the morning, it was calm. The Officers of the Zeehaan
came on board our ship, and proposed that if the wind and weather
would permit, we should examine if there is any passage through this
Bay, as the flood tide was observed to come from the SE.[+]
The 25th, the weather looked still very dark, and we remained at
anchor.
The 26th, in the morning, the wind came from ENE. We got under
sail, and held our course North, and afterwards NNW, intending to
sail round this land Northward.
[* The situation here mentioned in the Journal is a
quarter of a degree more Northerly than the anchoring place marked on
the Chart.]
[+ The uafavourable appearance of the weather seems to
have prevented Tasman from making the proposed
examination.]
{Page 78}
The 27th, we had a strong breeze from SW. At noon, our latitude
was 38° 38' S. Longitude 190° 15'. After noon we steered NE
[to get in with the land]. Variation 8° 20' NE.
The 28th, at noon, we saw a high mountain EbN from us, which at
first we took to be an Island, but we found it was a part of the main
land, and that the coast here extends as much as I could observe
North and South. This mountain is in 38° S latitude. Our latitude
at noon, by account, was 38° 2'. Longitude 192° 23'. At five
miles from the shore we had soundings in 50 fathoms, fine sand mixed
with clay. In the night it blew hard.
The 29th, we had a fresh gale. Latitude at noon 37° 17' S.
The 30th, the weather became moderate, wind WNW. At noon our
latitude was 37° S. Longitude 191° 55'. We sailed NE, and
towards evening saw the land again, bearing NE and NNE; we therefore
steered more to the North.
The 31st, at noon, found our latitude 36° 45' S: longitude
191° 46'. The coast here lies SE and NW. This land is in some
places high; and in some full of sand hills. In the evening we were
three miles from shore. Had soundings in the night at 80 fathoms.
[1643 January]
January 1st, 1643. This is an even coast, without shoals or banks,
but there is a great surf on the shore. Latitude at noon 36° 12'
S.
The 2d, and 3d, running Northward along the coast.
The 4th. This morning we were near a Cape of land, and had an
Island NWbN from us. We hoisted the white flag for the Officers of
the Zeehaan to come on board, and we resolved to stand for the Island
to look for fresh water and greens. We find a strong current setting
Westward, and much sea from the NE, from which we hope to find a
clear passage Eastward. In the evening we were near the Island, but
could not observe that any thing we wanted might be got here.
The 5th, in the morning, we had little wind and a calm sea. About
noon, we sent Francis Jacobsz in our shallop, and the
Thus appears the Staten Land in the South Latitude 38°
30'.
Thus appeared Drie Koningen Eijland when at anchor on the NW side in
40 fathoms. We named it Drie Koningen Eijland because we anchored
there on the ever of Epiphany.
{Page 79}
supercargo, Mr. Gillemans, in the Zeehaan's boat to the Island, to
try if fresh water could be got. In the evening, they returned, and
reported that they had been at a safe small Bay where fresh water
came in abundance from a high mountain; but that there was a great
surf on the shore, which would make watering there troublesome and
dangerous. They rowed farther round about this Island to look if
there was any more convenient place. Upon the highest mountain of the
Island, they saw 35 persons who were very tall, and had staves or
clubs. These people called to them in a strong rough voice. When they
walked, they took very large strides. On other parts of the Island, a
few people were seen here and there, which with those already
mentioned, were thought to be all, or nearly all the inhabitants of
the Island. Our people saw no trees, nor did they observe any
cultivated land, except that near the fresh water there were some
square plots of ground, green, and very pleasant; but of what kind
the greens were, they could not distinguish. Two canoes were drawn up
on the shore.
In the evening, we anchored in 40 fathoms, good ground, a musket
shot distant from the Island. [On the North side.]
The 6th, in the morning, we put water casks in the two boats, and
sent them to the shore. As they rowed towards the land, they saw tall
men standing in different places, with long staves like pikes in
their hands, who called to our people. There was much surf at the
watering place, which made landing difficult; and between a point of
the Island and another very high cliff or little Island, the current
ran so strong against the boats that they could scarcely stem it; for
which reasons the Officers held counsel together, and not being
willing to expose the boats and the people, they returned to the
ships. Before we saw them coming back, we had fired a gun and hoisted
a flag as a signal for them to return. This Island we named Drie
Koningen Eyland, i.e. Three Kings Island; [on account of
this being the day of the Epiphany.] It is in latitude 34°
25' S, and longitude 190° 40'.
{Page 80}
We called the Officers of the Zeehaan on board, and it was
resolved in Council, to sail Eastward to longitude 220°, and then
to steer North; and afterwards to get sight of the Cocos and
Hoorne Islands. In the afternoon, we had the wind ESE, and
steered NE. At sunset, Drie Koningen Island bore SSW distant
six or seven, miles; the cliffs and the Island bearing NE and SW one
from the other.[*]
The 7th, 8th, and 9th,[+] steered to
the NE, with light East and ESE winds. A swell from the SE.
The 10th, found our latitude at noon 31° 28' S. Longitude
192° 43'. The variation 10° 30' N Easterly.
[From the 10th to the 19th, the winds were variable; the courses
sailed were towards the NE.]
January the 19th, at noon, our latitude was 22° 49' S.
Longitude 203° 27'. About two o'clock this afternoon, we
discovered land bearing EbN about eight miles from us. We could not
get near it, the wind being from the SE and blowing fresh. It is a
high Island, not more than two or three miles in circumference, and
in the situation it was from us, it resembled the breasts of a woman.
It is in latitude 22° 55' S,[#] and
longitude 204° 15'. We called it Pylstaart Eylandt,
[Tropic Bird Island] as we saw many of those birds near it.[§] The variation there was 7°
30'.
The 20th. At sunrise, the Island, we saw yesterday was still in
sight, SSW from us, six miles. At noon, found we were in latitude
21° 50' S. About one hour past noon, we saw other land bearing
East from us, distant eight miles. We made towards it, and at night
took in sail and lay to.
[* This was not an observed, but an estimated bearing. By
the cliffs (Clippen) are meant the small isles and rocks S
Westward of Drie Koningen Island.]
[+ The Journal contains no remark of land being in sight
on any of these three days.]
[# This latitude does not correspond with the noon
latitude, it being evident the Island is more Northerly than the
ship's situation at noon. Late observations give the latitude of this
Island 22º 23' 30" S.]
[§ Pyl-staertorPyl-staart signifies
Arrow-tailed, and is the name by which the Hollanders distinguish the
bird we call Tropic Bird. ]
Abel Tasman's passage.
{Page 81}
The 21st, in the first of the morning, it was calm. An Island bore
from us EbS, distant five miles. Another Island lay to the North of
it. We sailed to the NW part of the Northern Island, where we cast
anchor in 25 fathoms, coral bottom. Here we lay in 21° 20' S
latitude, and in longitude 205° 29'. These two Islands lie about
SE and NW one from the other, and one mile and a half apart. The SE
Island is the highest: the Northern Island is like Holland, and we
named it Amsterdam, for we found plenty of refreshments here.
The Southerly Island we named Middleburgh.[*] At noon, three men [natives] came in a small
boat or canoe near our ship. They were of a brown colour, and naked
except a poor covering round the waist. They were taller than our
common stature, and two of them had long thick hair: the other had
his hair cut very short. They called out loud to us several times;
and we did so to them. We showed them some white linen, and threw a
piece about three yards long into the water to them. They came
towards it with their canoe, but it began to sink, and was already
deep in the water when one of them jumped out of the canoe and dived
after it. He was a long time under water, and at length came up with
the linen. He put it several times upon his head as a sign of
thankfulness. They then came a little nearer to the ship, and we tied
two spike nails, a small Chinese looking-glass, and a string of
beads, to a piece of wood, and put it overboard, which they took up,
and in return reached to us with a long stick one of their fish-hooks
and a small fishing-line. The fishhook was made of shell, and like a
small anchovy. They laid the looking-glass and the beads several
times upon their heads, and one of them hung the spike nails round
his neck. But as the shutter was before the looking-glass so that
they could not
[* The Northern, which is the largest of the two Islands,
is called by the natives Tonga-tabu: the other Eooa.
Tonga-tabu is the principal Island of the group which Captain
Cook named the Friendly Islands.]
{Page 82}
look in it, we reached them another, which they looked in and laid
on their heads. We showed them an old cocoa-nut and a fowl, and asked
them from our Vocabulary for hogs, and fresh water; but we did not
make them understand us. At last, they left us and went on shore, and
it seemed to us as if they went for the purpose of fetching something
for us. In the afternoon, we saw many people running along the shore
with white flags, which we took to be meant for signs of peace, and
we hoisted a white flag at our stern; whereupon four strong men in a
small canoe carrying a white flag, put off from the shore and came on
board us. The men were painted black from the middle to the thighs,
and they had coverings of leaves round their necks. They delivered to
us some cloth made of the bark of a tree; and the white flag they
fixed on the stem of our boat. We judged from their gift, and by
their canoe being better than the common ones, that they came from
the King or Chief of the Country; and we gave them in return, a
looking-glass, a knife, a piece of linen, and two spikes. We filled a
wine-glass with wine, and drank it, to show them that it was nothing
hurtful, and then filled the glass again and gave it them: but they
threw out the wine, and took the glass with them on shore. In a short
time after, a great many canoes came to the ships, bringing
cocoa-nuts, for which we gave old nails in exchange, at the rate of
three or four cocoa-nuts for a double spike. Besides those who came
in the canoes, several of the natives swam from the shore, bringing
things to exchange. Presently, a grave old man came on board of us,
to whom the other Islanders showed much respect, so that he seemed to
be their Chief. We conducted him to our Cabin. He paid us his
respects, by bowing his head upon our feet; and we did him honour our
way. We showed him a cup of fresh water, and he made signs that there
was fresh water on shore. We made him a present of a piece of linen
and several other things. This afternoon we detected one
{Page 83}
of the natives in stealing a pistol and a pair of gloves belonging
to the Master of our ship. We took the things from him without
anger.
When it was near sunset, about 20 canoes came from the shore and
took stations near our ship in a regular order. The people in them
were very loud, and called out several times, Woo, Woo, Woo!
whereupon all the natives who were in our ship sat down, and one of
the canoes came on board, bringing a present from their King, of a
fine large hog, and a great many cocoa-nuts and yams. The bearer of
this was one of the four men who had first come to us with the white
flag and the cloth. We returned by him a plate and some brass wire.
We continued to make exchanges for provisions, until it began to grow
dark, when all the natives went ashore except one, who staid and
slept on board of us.
The 22d, in the morning, many canoes came off to us with
cocoa-nuts, yams, bananas, plantains, hogs, and fowls, which they
exchanged for nails, beads, and linen. Several women also came on
board, both old and young. The elder women had the little finger cut
off from both hands; but the young women had not. The meaning of this
we could not guess. The person who yesterday brought the presents,
came this morning with two hogs; and we in return gave him a handsome
knife and eight spike nails. We likewise gave this old man a satin
habit, a hat, and a shirt, which we put on him. We carried some of
the natives below to see our ship, and fired one of our great guns,
which frightened them a good deal, but seeing that nobody was hurt,
they were soon easy again.
About noon, a large boat with a sail, such as is drawn in Le Maire
and Schouten's Voyage, came to us. They made us a present of their
cloth and some provisions, for which we made returns, and caused our
music to be played, which they admired.
In the mean time, we sent our boat and one of the Zeehaan's
{Page 84}
boats to the shore with water casks, they being armed with
muskets, and our Master and Mr. Gillemans going in them. Some of the
inhabitants also went from the ship with our people to shew them
where the fresh water was. They rowed a good way towards the NE coast
of this land, and arrived at last at a place where there were three
small wells; but with so little water in them that they were obliged
to take it up with cocoa-nut shells; and what they took was of a bad
colour. The natives who conducted our men, led them farther into the
country to a pleasant valley, where they were seated upon fine mats,
and fresh water in cocoa-nut shells brought to them. In the evening,
the boats returned on board, bringing a live hog: but from the
account they gave, we found we could not water the ships here. We got
by exchanges in the course of this day, near 40 hogs and 70 fowls, at
the rate of a spike nail and a yard of old sail-cloth for a hog, and
a double middle nail for a fowl; yams, cocoa-nuts, and fruits we
bought for coral or beads. These people have no idea of tobacco, or
of smoking. We saw no arms among them, so that here was altogether
peace and friendship. The women wear a covering of mat-work that
reaches from the middle to the knees: the rest of their body is
naked. They cut their hair shorter than that of the men.
The tide here runs SW and NE; and by our account we make it high
water with a SW moon: the current is not strong: the rise and fall of
the tide is seven or eight feet.
The 23d. This morning, myself and the Skipper of our ship, Gerard
Janszoon, went on shore with the shallop and two boats to dig for
fresh water. We made the Chief understand that the wells ought to be
made larger, and he directly set his people to work to do it for us;
and in the mean while, he went with us to the valley, and ordered
mats to be spread on the ground, and when we were seated, cocoa-nuts
and fresh fish and several fruits were brought to us. He behaved to
us with great friendship
This Bay we named Maria's Bay in honour of the Excellent Lady
of the Honourable Governor-General, Antony Van Diemen.
A. The place where our boats were laying to fetch water.
B. Where the natives came with cocoanuts and sat down with flags of
peace.
C. Where our people kept guard.
D. Where we sat with the King and were well treated.
E. The place where the King and principal People went daily to
wash.
F. Their vessels at anchor.
G. One of their vessels under sail, made of two prauws joined
together.
{Page 85}
and enquired of us whence we came, and where we intended to go. We
told him we had been more than a hundred days at sea, at which he and
the natives were much astonished. We explained to them that we came
to their country for water and provisions; and they answered us that
we should have as much as we could wish for. We filled to day nine
casks with water, and the Chief made us a present of four live hogs,
a good many fowls, with cocoa-nuts and sugar canes. We presented him
with two yards of cloth, six large spikes, and six strings of coral.
I ordered a white flag to be brought, and we went with it to three of
their Chiefs, to whom we explained that we wished it to be set up in
that valley, and that it might remain there as a sign of peace
between us: at which they were much pleased, and the flag was fixed
there.
The anchoring ground where the ships lay was steep and rocky; and
about noon this day, whilst I was on shore, the Heemskerk was driven
off the bank by the strengh of the trade wind, without being able to
help it, and she drifted out to sea. There were but few people on
board, and it was midnight before they got the anchor quite up and
secured.
We obtained by exchanges with the inhabitants this day, 100 hogs,
150 fowls, and a large quantity of yarns, and other fruits. As I
could not get to my ship, I was obliged to pass the night on board
the Zeehaan.
The 24th, in the morning, the Heesmkerk was four miles to leeward
of the Island. The Zeehaan therefore was got under sail and we went
out and joined her. When I got on board the Heemskerk, we held a
Council, and there being little prospect that we should be able to
fetch up to the Island again, as the trade wind was strong from the
SE, we resolved to proceed on our voyage, and to stop at some other
Island, if we should meet with any.
The place where we anchored at Amsterdam we called Van
{Page 86}
Diemen's Road; and the Bay where our boats went to fetch
water we named Maria's Bay; in honour of our Governor General,
and his Lady. From our anchoring place at Amsterdam, two high
but small Islands, about one mile and a half each in circumference,
bore NbW, distant seven or eight miles.
We directed our course NE, and about three in the afternoon, we
saw a low and pretty large Island, distant four or five miles ENE
from us. A short time afterwards, we saw three small Islands
Eastward, and two others to the SE from us. They are all low land. We
steered ENE for the largest Island, and anchored by the West side of
it in 12 fathoms, shelly bottom, about a musket shot distance from
land. NWbN from us, distant eight or nine miles, we saw two high
Islands; and to the North and N Eastward we saw seven small Islands,
distant from us about three or four miles. Most of these Islands have
reefs of coral rock round about them: and the bottom also is rocky
and steep, so that one must anchor near to the shore, The variation
is here 7° North Easterly.
The 25th, in the morning, several canoes came on hoard of us with
cocoa-nuts, yams, and plantains, to exchange for nails, of which they
were very desirous. It seems that but a few people live on this
Island. Our chief pilot and the Master went with the shallop and both
the boats for fresh water, one of the inhabitants going with them to
show them where it was. We gave small presents to some of the
natives, that they might know we did not desire to take their water
without paying them for it. About two hours before sunset, the Master
and pilot returned on board. They reported that they found on shore
60 or 70 persons sitting down, whom they believed to be all the men
on this Island: that they had no arms, and seemed a good peaceable
people. They saw also many women and children, and were shewn a good
path which led landwards two-thirds of a mile, to a piece of fresh
water about a quarter of a mile in
{Page 87}
circumference, and which is a fathom and a half or two fathoms
higher than the level of the sea. They walked round by the edge of
this lake, and found that it lay within a musket shot of the sea on
the North side of the Island, where there was a good sandy Bay, and
smooth water for landing and for loading the boats. In the front of
this Bay was a coral reef, in which there was an opening on the West
side. At low water one can row along the shore to the calm water, but
the tide must be risen 1½ or 2 feet before one can get to the
sandy strand.
As this was at the North side of the Island, and our ships lay at
the West side, the boats had to row along the shore a full mile to
come at the Bay near the fresh water. About three hours after sunset,
our boats returned on board with water. The tide rises and falls here
about eight feet. In the lake of fresh water were a good many wild
duck, which were not at all shy. The inhabitants came to us with
fruits and a few hogs. They are a thievish people, and steal every
thing they can get at. Their clothing and manners are the same as
those of the people of Amsterdam Island, except that the men
had not so long and thick hair. The women seemed to he as strong in
their bodies and limbs as the men. We named this Island
Rotterdam. The natives called it Amamocka.[*] It lies in latitute 20° 15' S, longitude
206° 19'.[+] The variation here is
6° 20' NE.
[* The name by which the natives call this Island, is not
given in the Manuscript Journal in the regular course of the
narrative; but in the drawings. Two of the drawings shew the name
differently written. Tabula XXI. of the Manuscript, is a plan
and representation of the Island Amamocka, with small Islands
near it of the names Amo, Amoa, Amango, and Amatafoa.
Tabula XXII. is a representation of the inhabitants of
Anamocka. The navigators of our own time have understood the
native pronunciation of the name to be Anamocka; but the
number of names with the same commencement in Tab. XXI. have
much appearance of some reference to one common meaning, and favours
the probability of Amamocka being the right native
name.]
[+ In Tasman's Chart it is laid down a few miles more
Eastward.]
{Page 88}
We continued at anchor taking on board fresh water, and making
exchanges for provisions: and God be thanked, we were here well
refreshed, and provided with water: but the eyes of an Argus are
scarcely sufficient to guard against the thieving of the
inhabitants.
On the 31st, at noon, I went on shore with the chief pilot, the
Skipper of our ship, and Mr. Gillemans, the merchant of the Zeehaan,
to take our leave, and to make some more exchanges. When we landed, a
great many of the natives assembled about us. We asked two of the
principal among them to lead us to the Chief of the Island; and they
conducted us by narrow paths, which were very dirty from much rain
having fallen in the two last days, to the South side of the Island,
where many cocoa-nut trees were regularly planted. From here they
took us to the East side of the Island where six large vessels with
masts were lying. They then led us to a pool of water which was about
a mile in circumference; but we were not yet come to the AigyorLatoun, as they call their Chief. When we had rested, we
again asked where the Aigy was; and they pointed to the other
side of the pool of water: but the day being far advanced, we
returned by another way to our boats. In our walk, we saw several
pieces of cultivated ground, or gardens, where the beds were
regularly laid out into squares, and planted with different plants
and fruits; bananas and other trees placed in strait lines, which
made a pleasant show, and spread round about a very agreeable and
fine odour: so that among these people who have the form of the human
species but no human manners, you may see traces of reason and
understanding. They know nothing about Religion or Divine Worship:
they have no idols, relicks, or priests: but they have nevertheless
superstitions; for I saw a man take up a water snake which was near
his boat, and he put it respectfully upon his head, and then again
into the water. They kill no flies, though they are very
{Page 89}
numerous and plague them extremely. Our steersman accidentally
killed a fly in the presence of one of the principal people, who
could not help shewing anger at it. The people of this Island have no
King or Chief, and are without government; nevertheless they punished
a man who was detected in stealing from us, by beating him with an
old cocoa-nut on the back till the nut broke.
[1643 February]
February the 1st. This morning we weighed our anchors and sailed
towards the NNW.
The 2d, at noon, we were in latitude 19°20' S; longitude
205° 55'. In the afternoon, we discovered an Island of a
tolerable height, bearing NEbE from us about seven miles distant.[*] We had the wind from East, a weak
breeze. Our course was North.
On the 4th, being under 17° S latitude, it was resolved in
Council to steer Westward, and to keep a sharp look-out that we might
not pass the Cocos and Verraders Islands.[+]
The 5th, we held our course Westward with a light wind from the
ESE, and kept a look-out for Cocos and Verraders
Islands. Latitude at noon 16° 30'; longitude 203° 12'.
After three glasses of the dog watch had run out, we saw land, and
immediately changed our course Southward till seven glasses were out,
and then turned Northward.
The 6th, in the morning, we saw the land again, which we found to
be three small Islands, with many sand banks and shoals round them. A
large reef was to the Westward, which extended to the South, and gave
us some apprehension. We sailed Southward close to the wind, which
was from ESE. This reef was eight or nine miles in length; and right
before us we saw breakers, which we did not dare attempt to pass. We
could not clear this reef, neither could we clear a reef which
[In Tasman's chart, this Island is laid down due North
from the anchoring place at Amamocka, and in latitude 18º
50' S. ]
[+ At the time of altering the course to the West, Tasman
was a degree of longitude to the Westward of Cocos and
Verraders Islands.]
{Page 90}
was to the Northward. We observed a small channel about twice the
length of a ship wide, where there was no surf; and as we had no
other chance for safety, we steered for it, and passed through the
[opening in the] reef, having four fathoms depth, being all the time
under a great deal of anxiety. You meet every where hereabouts with
shoals, and there are here likewise about 18 or 19 Islands which you
cannot coast on account of the reefs. When we were clear within the
opening, we wished much to anchor near one of the Islands, but could
not find anchorage for the many shoals and reefs. At noon, our
latitude by account was 17° 9'. Longitude 201° 35'. After
noon, we directed our course Northward to try to get out of these
difficulties before night. There were many sands to the North, which
we could scarcely keep clear of; but at last we found a passage
between the reefs. It was a great disappointment to us that we could
not find anchorage among these Islands. In the evening we saw three
hills, which we took to be so many Islands. Part of the first watch
of the night we ran back to avoid sands. After five glasses [i.e.
five half hours] we put about Northward intending to run that way for
the rest of the night. The wind was fresh from NE, and blew strong
with rain. Early in the morning we came close upon an Island, and
therefore we turned again Southward till day-break. We then saw the
Island which yesterday evening bore NbW, and again put about to the
Northward. The wind was NE and stormy; and we went with shortened
sail to the NW. At noon we conjectured our latitude to be 16° S,
and longitude 200° 48'.[*]
The 8th. This day we held Council amongst ourselves in the
Heemskerk, it being too stormy for our friends of the Zeehaan to come
on board; and we came to a resolution to steer a
[* The account of this day's navigation does not well
agree with the track in the Chart. The Journal assigns no name to
these Islands. In the Chart the whole groupe is named Prins
Willem's Eylanden (i.e. Prince William's Islands); and the
reefs and shoals are named Heemskerk's Droochten (i.e.
Heemskerk's Shoals).]
{Page 91}
Northerly course to 5° or to 4° of S latitude, that we
might keep clear of the East coast of Nova Guinea, the present
time of the year being the season when the North and South trade
winds meet one another, which must be the cause of a great deal of
rain and bad weather. In the large map of the South Sea, there
are marked some Islands in the same latitude as the Islands we have
met with, but differing in longitude above 200 miles from our
accounts. However, as our voyage is very long, and we have sailed
much East, and much West, it is possible there might be such a
difference. The Islands by which we were so much encompassed on the
6th, are about 18 or 20 in number, perhaps more, as we could not
exactly number them in the dark weather we had.
[From the time Tasman left the Prins Willem's Islands to March
the 21st inclusive, no land was seen, nor does the Journal contain
any occurrence particularly deserving notice, except what relates to
the track sailed and the weather. For that interval therefore, the
winds and the ship's place on every day at noon, are here set down
tabular-wise, as being best adapted for giving a clear view of the
navigation. Tasman made the longitude of Amamocka 206º 19' E.
The longitudes therefore set down in this account of his track, if
sub-tracted from 206° 19', will give longitude by his Reckoning,
West of Amamocka.]
{Page 92}
{Page 93}
[1643 March]
The 22d. Had a continuance of fine weather. The breeze light from
the East and NE, with smooth water. We kept our course West, and at
noon we saw land strait before us, distant about four miles; our
latitude by account was 5° 2' S. Longitude 178° 32'. We
steered WbN and afterwards NW to go North of the land. In the
evening, we sailed near to and along the North part of the land,
which we found to be many very small Islands, about twenty. The
largest of them is not more than two miles long, and they all lay
within one reef. A reef runs off NW, upon which are three cocoa-nut
trees, by which it may easily be known again. These are the Islands
which are set down in the Map by Jacob Le Maire, about 90 miles
distant from the coast of Nova Guinea. We named them
Onthona Java for the great resemblance they have with it. In
the evening we saw more land to the NNW; we therefore kept by the
wind to the NNE in the night, with the foresail up.
The 23d, when it was day, we set sail and steered West. The
Islands we saw yesterday evening bore South, about three miles
distant. At noon, we were in latitude by account 4° 31' S, and
longitude 177° 18'. At night we lay to, for fear of coming on the
Islands named Marken.
{Page 94}
The 24th. In the morning we made sail again, and steered West.
About noon, we saw land right before us, very low, and appearing like
two Islands, SE and NW one from the other. The most Northerly appears
like Marken which Jacob Le Maire has described. At noon, we were in
latitude 4° 55' S, by which we find a current sets Southward. Our
longitude, 175° 30'. In the evening we steered to pass to the
Northward of these Islands. In the night we floated with a calm sea
which set us towards them.
The 25th. In the morning watch before it was day-light, we heard
the surf beating against the shore. It was still calm, and we got our
boats out to tow, to keep us from the reefs; but the current and
swell carried us towards them, and we could not find anchorage. About
nine o'clock in the forenoon, a canoe with seven men in it came from
the land to us. They brought about twenty cocoa-nuts of a wild kind
and not very good, for which we gave them three strings of coral and
some nails. These people were naked, except a piece of cloth which
seemed to be of cotton round their waist. They were blacker than the
inhabitants of the Islands we had been at, and not so civil or
friendly in their behaviour. Some of them had their hair cut short,
and others had it bound up like those villains at Moordenaar's Bay.
One man had two feathers on the crown of his head, like two horns:
another had rings through his nose, but what the rings were made of
we could not distinguish. They did not set much value on the things
we gave them. They were armed with bows and arrows. A breeze sprung
up from the South, which happily carried us from the reef; and the
canoe returned to the shore. There are 15 or 16 Islands in this
groupe. The largest is about one mile long; the rest look almost like
houses, and they lay all together within one reef. This reef towards
the NW extends about a gun-shot beyond the Islands. At the NW part,
is a small wood or cluster of trees growing on
{Page 95}
land that is level with the surface of the sea; and two miles
thence farther to the NW, is a fragment or small clump[*], like a cape of land. The reef extends still
farther N Westward half a mile.
At noon we were in latitude by account 4° 34' S, and longitude
175° 10'. We sailed on towards the West, and NW.
The 26th. The latitude observed at noon was 4° 33' S, by which
we found that a current had set us Southward, and therefore we
steered NW. Longitude 174° 30'. Variation 9° 30' N
Easterly.
The 27th. At noon our latitude was 4° 1'. Longitude 173°
36'. We altered our course more to the West.
The 28th. We had a weak breeze from East with fine weather and
smooth sea. Towards noon we saw land strait before us. At noon we
found we were in latitude 4° 11' S; longitude 172° 32'. The
land was then about four miles distant. This Island is situated in
latitude 4° 50' S,[+] and longitude
172° 16'; and is 46 miles West and WbN from Marken. At
night we floated in a calm sea.
The 29th in the morning, we found the current had set us towards
the Islands. At noon we were in latitude 4° 20', and longitude
172° 17'. In the middle of the afternoon, two small boats came to
us from the shore: they had two wings [outriggers]; in one were six,
in the other three persons. When they came within a ship's length of
us, a man sitting in one of the canoes broke an arrow in the middle,
and put one half in his hair, which we supposed he meant as a token
of friendship. These people were naked, their bodies quite black;
they had curled hair, but not so woolly as the hair of the Caffres;
and their noses were not so flat. They had bracelets apparently made
of bones;
[* Klyn brokje.]
[+ This is a disagreement from the latitude just before
given of the ship at noon, for which no cause appears.]
{Page 96}
some had their faces painted, and wore bands made of the bark of a
tree round their foreheads. We spoke to them from our Vocabulary of
the Nova Guinea language, but they did not understand any
thing we said except the word Lamas, which signifies
cocoa-nuts. They brought nothing with them but their bows and arrows.
We gave them some beads and nails. Towards evening a light breeze
from the NE drove us towards the Islands, and kept us employed during
the first part of the night in towing the ships. By the end of the
second night watch, we had past clear.
These are what Le Maire has named Groene Islands. There are
five of them; to wit, two large Islands, and three small, which are
on the West side.[*] They were so named
on account of their being green and pleasant. We saw to the WSW
another large island, and two or three very small Islands; and also
to the Westward, very high land, which seemed to be of an extensive
coast. Variation 9° N Easterly.
The 30th. A light breeze from the NE. Observed a current setting
us Southward. At noon we found the latitude 4° 25'; longitude
172°. In the evening, St. Jan's Island bore NW, about six
miles distant.
The 31st, very light wind East. We held our course West.
[* The Groene Islands are level land and near to
each other, so that when seen from a distance, in many directions
they appear as one Island. In Captain Carteret's Voyage (A.D. 1767)
they are described as a single Island, and named Sir Charles
Hardy's Island. It is to be observed that Captain Carteret saw
and passed them in the night. Tasman, however, towards noon saw land,
which at noon he calls an Island, and afterwards describes to be a
groupe of five Islands. Tasman has given a view of the Groene
Islands, which is copied in Valentyn: but Valentyn's engraver has
embellished this, and other of the drawings, with figures of the two
ships, and has made this addition in a very uninformed manner; for at
the Groene Islands he has represented the ships lying at
anchor; and in some other plates they appear sailing in the direction
opposite to the track.]
Thus appears the Coast of Nova Guinea as you Sail between Cape
Santa Maria and Anthony Kaan's Island.
Thus appeared Anthony Kaan's Island when it bore North from us.
Thus appeared Gerrit Denys Island when bearing North distant two
miles.
Thus appeared Vischers Island bearing East distant four
miles.
{Page 97}
[1643 April]
April the 1st, we were near the East part of Nova Guinea[*], which the Spaniards call Cabo Santa
Maria. At noon, found we were in latitude 4° 30' S; longitude
171° 2'.
The 2d, we had light winds and calms. We endeavoured to sail along
the coast which here lies NW and SE. About 10 miles distant from
St. Jan's is another Island, which we named Anthony Kaan's
Island. It bears due North from the Cape Santa Maria. At
noon we found we were in latitude 4° 9', and our longitude was
170° 41'. Cape Santa Maria then bore South; accordingly
the longitude of the said Cape is 170° 41'. In the night we had a
land wind with which we held on our course N Westward.
The 3d, in the forenoon, we saw a vessel coming towards us from
the land: she was curved at each end, and was full of people. They
did not venture within reach of gun-shot, and after a little time,
went back to the shore. Latitude by account at noon 3° 42' S.
Longitude 170° 20'. This seems to be a very fine land; but we
could find no anchorage. In the night we had lightning and rain, and
the wind variable.
The 4th, we sailed along the coast, which extends NWbW with a
great many Bays. We passed an Island which lies NW 12 miles from
Anthony Kaan's Island. We called it Gerrit Denys
Island. At noon, we reckoned our latitude 3° 22' S. Longitude
169° 50'. In the night had a land wind, with thunder, lightning
and rain.
The 5th, at noon, our latitude by account was 3° S. Longitude
169° 17'. We were near an Island that is about 10 miles distant
to the WNW from Gerrit Denys Island. Some boats which we
supposed to be fishing boats were lying close under this Island, and
therefore we named it Vischer's Island. About
[* The land at present named New Ireland was then
believed to join, and form part of New Guinea.]
{Page 98}
noon, six boats came in our wake. We threw some beads, nails, and
pieces of sail cloth into the water to float towards them; but they
did not mind these things, and pointed to their heads, as if they
wanted turbans. They were very shy, and kept at a distance as if they
were afraid of a shot. They paddled a good while round the ships,
sometimes giving a loud call to us, which we answered; and at length
they returned to the land.
The 6th. In the morning it was calm. Eight small canoes came from
Vischer's Island, but they stopped at some distance, in the
same manner as the boats which came yesterday, till one of our
quartermasters took off his girdle and shewed to them; upon which,
one of the canoes came to the ship. We made the people in her a
present of a string of coral, and our quartermaster gave them his
girdle: the other canoes then came to the ship. They gave us a little
sago, which was the only commodity they had in their boats. We named
to them anieuw, oufi, pouacka,[*]
which signifies cocoa-nuts, yams, and pork; and they seemed to
understand us, for they pointed to the land, and soon after departed.
These people are black as Hottentots can be; their hair is of
different colours, which is caused by powdering it with lime and
ochre; they paint their faces red, the forehead excepted; and some
among them had something white as big as a little finger sticking
through their noses. They came without arms, and were without
covering except some green leaves round their middle. Their canoes
had each one outrigger. At noon, our latitude was 2° 55' S;
longitude 168° 59'. In the afternoon, we had a good breeze from
the SE. At night the wind was from the land, and weak.
The 7th, we had little wind. Some canoes came from the
[* These words are from Le Maire's Vocabulary of the
Salomon and Cocos Island language. The Islands at which
Tasman had lately stopped, made these words familiar to him and his
people, and occasioned their being now tried before the words of the
New Guinea Vocabulary. ]
Appearance of the Coast at Salomon Sweer's Point, and the
Inhabitants.
{Page 99}
shore, and after signs of invitation being made to them, came
along-side. We bought of them a shark (which they call Isdaxa)
and a dorado, for which we gave three strings of beads, and a cap. At
going away, they altogether set up a loud shout. At noon, our
latitude by account was 2° 35' S; longitude 168° 25'.
Westward of us, the land begins to be very low, but the coast extends
as far as we could see WbN and WNW. In the afternoon, we saw high
land bearing WbN and West, distant by estimation 10 miles. We had a
current setting along the coast always in our favour. In the night we
passed a large Bay.
The 8th, in the morning, we sailed by four low Islands, and as we
passed them, found three more small Islands together near them
Westward, which we passed before noon.. Our latitude at noon by
account was 2° 26' S; longitude 167° 39'. Wind Easterly but
variable. Found the variation here 10º N Easterly. In the
afternoon, we came near a low point of land, to the North of which
lie two small Islands. The coast of the main land begins here to
decline to the South. At sunset, the two small Islands bore SbW; and
the most advanced part of the main land in sight, which was flat and
low, bore from us SWbS, distant about four miles.[*] We kept our course along the coast.
The 9th, at sunrise, the most Southerly point seen of the main
land bore SEbE, 2½ miles distant. Here the land is suddenly
terminated. We saw likewise a small low Island SSW, about two miles
distant. We endeavoured to sail by the point of the main land, but it
was calm. At noon we found our latitude 2° 53' S; longitude
167° 4'. The variation here was 10° N Easterly.
[* A view os this Cape is given here from Tasman's
Journal, in which it is named Salomon Sweert's Hoek, after a
Member,of the Council at Batavia. It would have been very
satisfactory if Captain Tasman had made charts of all the lands by
which he sailed, instead of limiting himself to be the hydrographer
of his own discoveries; but after coming into the track of Le Maire
and Schouten's discoveries, his Journal contains views only of land
unaccompanied with a single chart.]
{Page 100}
The 10th, at noon, we found our latitude 3° S; longitude
167° 4'. The land bore from NNE to ENE. We kept our course
towards the South, partly to discover more lands, and partly to see
if there was a passage here to the South. Had weak variable
winds.
The 12th, at noon, our latitude by account was 3° 28' S,
longitude 166° 51'.
The 12th, in the night, there was a shock of an earthquake so
strong that it awoke every person on board who was asleep, and they
came terrified upon deck thinking the ship had struck against rocks.
We tried for soundings, but, found no bottom. We afterwards felt
several shocks, but less violent than the first. The weather was soon
after rainy, but the wind soft and variable. At noon found our
latitude 3° 45' S. Longitude 167° 1'. Steered to the SE, and
saw a small, round, low Island SbW from us, 4½ or 5 miles
distant.
The 13th, in the morning, we saw high mountainous land, and also
low land, from ESE to SWbW. It appears to us as if we are in a large
Bay; for the water here is as smooth as in a river. Our latitude at
noon we supposed 4° 22' S. Longitude 167° 18'. In the evening
we directed our course towards some mountains that bore SSW from
us.
The 14th, in the morning, we saw land from ENE to SSW; and soon
afterwards, we saw land in the WSW. We hoped to find a passage
between them; but on coming nearer,we found a Bay, and that the land
all joined.[*] We therefore directed our
course Westward. At noon, observed the latitude 5° 27' S.
Longitude 166° 57'. About three o'clock in the afternoon, we met
with a ledge or reef of rocks, some part level with the surface of
the water. We conjectured this reef to be two miles distant from
the
[* Many years after Tasman's Voyage, a Strait was
discovered here, which separates the land now called New
Britain from New Guinea.]
{Page 101}
main land. We had light winds and calms. Variation 9° 15'
NE.
The 15th, we advanced but little. At noon, our latitude by account
was 5° 18' S; longitude 166° 36'. In the evening, a high
Island bore from us due NW, distant six miles.
The 16th, we floated in a calm sea. The main land begins here to
extend from one point to another nearly WbN. We saw on it high
mountains and some fine vallies.
The 17th. This morning we passed by the South of the high Island,
and had other Islands in sight. Found our latitude at noon 5° 8'
S. Longitude 166°. Variation 8° 45' NE. At sunset the high
Island bore from us EbN six or seven miles; and the West part of a
high mountain on the main land of Nova Guinea bore SWbS six or
seven miles distant.
The 18th, at noon, found our latitude 5° S; longitude 165°
37'. The high mountain on the main then bore SbE; and other high
mountains SWbS from us. We kept our course Westward.
The 19th, the latitude observed at noon was 5° 9' S; longitude
164° 50'. A high round Island between us and the main land then
bore South, distant 2½ miles. We had the wind from the SE, and
steered WSW. At two in the afternoon we fell in with some rocky banks
and reefs; and from our mast-head saw several small reefs to the
Northward, between some of which there was apparently deep water. We
ran Southward, and that way found a passage between the reefs, when
we resumed our course WSW; the round Island which at noon bore South,
at this time bearing SEbE, about four miles distant; and the Northern
part of some mountainous land (which we supposed,and which proved: to
be an Island) bearing WNW, about seven miles distant. The
above-mentioned reef lies in latitude 5° 10' or 5° 12' S.[*]
[* Tasman means here the part near which he passed; for
by the defcription above, the reefs must be of considerable
extent.]
{Page 102}
The 20th, the latitude observed was 5° 4' S; longitude
164° 27'. In the night we came close under the Vulcan's
Island mentioned by W. Schouten in his Journal,[*] and between this Island and the main land we
passed. We saw a great fire continually rising out of the mountains.
We saw also many fires near the waterside, and inland between the
mountains, so that this seems to be a very populous Island. We heard
the ripling of the current, which set us Westward. In sailing along
this coast of Nova Guinea, we continually saw floating wood,
such as trees and bushes; and we passed through muddy streaks which
seemed to come from rivers.
The 21st. In the morning the body of Vulcan's Island bore
East distant three miles. We then saw NWbW from us, distant eight
miles, the Hooge Bergh (i.e. High Mountain), so named with
reason by Willem Schouten. Our latitude observed at noon 4° 30'
S; longitude 163° 13'. In the night we sailed between the main
land of Nova Guinea, and the Hooge Bergh which
continually cast out flames from its top. We observed that here the
land of Nova Guinea near the sea shore begins to be low;
therefore for fear of coming into danger, at the end of the first
night watch we took in all our sails and let the ship drift with the
current, which we always found to run Westward. The coast extends
from here to the WNW and NWbW. The Hooge Bergh during the
whole night was in violent flames.
The 22d. We set our sails at day-light and steered WNW. At sunrise
we came into quite black water, and for fear it should be a shoal, we
altered our course Northward. The Hooge Bergh then bore ESE
and SEbE distant seven miles; a small high Island bore NNE from us
four or five miles distant; the most Western part of the main land
seen, bore WNW; and to the SSW, at two miles distance from us, was a
great River. The
[* See Vol. IId. p.425.]
{Page 103}
course of this river was SSE and NNW between two small high
Islands lying near to other Islands. Westward, we saw three more
Islands. When we had sailed one mile Northward, and more distant from
the low land, we sounded; and finding no bottom, we again directed
our course WNW along the coast. We passed this day six small Islands,
all of which we left on our right hand. At noon, observed the
latitude 3° 39' S; longitude 161° 38'. Wind from the ENE, a
fine breeze. The land hereabouts is low and full of rivers, whence
come trees and brush-wood floating in whitish sandy water. The low
land forms a Cape here, to the Westward of which is a large Bay; but
the points bear WNW and ESE of each other. In the night, we passed a
high Island which was between us and the main land.
The 23d, we continued our course WNW, the wind still Easterly.
This morning we passed so many pieces of trees, bamboos, and shrubs,
floating, that we supposed ourselves to be in a large river; and we
found we were set off from the shore by a current. Latitude at noon
by account 3° 1' S; longitude 160° 3'. In the afternoon, we
again came close to the land, and a boat of the country went near the
Zeehaan.
The 24th, we continued our course WNW. In the second watch of the
night, we saw low land before us with fires on it. We took in sail
and lay by the wind to wait for day-light. In the night we observed
the latitude 2° 20' S.
The 25th, in the morning, we made sail towards the low land on
which we had seen fires in the night, which we found to be three low
Islands lying near the main land; and shortly after, we saw the
Island Moa which is about five miles farther along the coast
Westward. In the forenoon we anchored by the West side of an Island,
in 12 fathoms depth, on a good bottom of grey sand. We had much rain
and a swell from the NW. A great many small canoes flocked round our
ships, but they continued
{Page 104}
a long while paddling about us without venturing to come on board.
We fastened some beads to pieces of wood and threw towards them; and
at length they all came to the ships. They had with them only three
cocoa-nuts; but they soon went to the shore and returned again with
cocoa-nuts, unripe bananas, and fish both dried and fresh. These
things they sold to us for nails, beads, and knives; giving 12 or 14
cocoanuts for a knife. Our latitude at noon was 2° 11' S;
longitude 156' 47'. We found variation here 8° NEasterly. The
current has constantly run Westward, and has set us along the coast
at the rate of four, five, or six miles a day. From the anchorage we
now lay at, two small Islands are in sight to the Westward; also the
Island Arimoa bearing NWbW, distant by conjecture eight or
nine miles.
In the evening, all the natives left our ships. Their canoes are
very narrow, being not more than a foot in breadth.
The 26th. In the morning, the natives came again with cocoa-nuts
and unripe bananas. It seems that at this time they have no great
plenty of provisions for themselves. We obtained however as many
cocoa-nuts as served out five to each man of our crew. The wind
during the day was from the NE, and in the night SE from the
land.
The 27th. In the morning, the wind was from the SW. Many boats or
canoes came to us from the main land, and from different Islands near
us, with fish, cocoa-nuts, and unripe bananas, to traffic. Among
these vessels, two were large and carried each 18 or 20 men, armed
with pikes, bows and arrows, and harpoons. The people here are almost
quite black and naked. They could pronounce after us the words of our
language very exactly. In their own language they make much use of
the letter R, and in some words pronounce it as if it were three
times together. We bartered for as many cocoa-nuts to day as served
to each
{Page 105}
man of our crew six, besides bananas. This day we observed the
latitude 2° 10' S.
The 28th, early in the morning, we sailed from Jamna, and
at noon anchored close to the Island Moa, in 10 fathoms muddy
bottom. Immediately a great many small canoes came to us with
cocoa-nuts and bananas. Our latitude here, we reckoned to be 2°
5' S; our longitude 156° 28'. The cocoa-nuts purchased to day
served six to each man.
The 29th, the canoes of the natives came on board with provisions
as usual, and we served out four cocoa-nuts to each of our men. We
consulted this evening, and resolved to sail and proceed on our
voyage as soon as wind and weather would permit.
The 30th, the wind blew hard from WNW, and the sea was high, which
prevented our getting under sail. We trafficked for as many
cocoa-nuts as the natives brought.
[1643 May]
May the 1st. The wind continued to blow from the WNW, and the
current set Eastward, therefore we remained at anchor.
The 2d. In the forenoon we trafficked with the natives, but in the
afternoon it blew hard and they did not come off.
On the 3d, in the morning, the boats of the natives again came on
board. We were busied in cleaning the ship; and as one of our seamen
was standing by the shrowds to hand over the buckets of water, a
native shot at him with an arrow, which went into his thigh. We fired
muskets among their canoes, and wounded one man in the arm. Soon
after, we took up our anchors and ran in between the two Islands
[Moa and Insou] to where Jacob Le Maire had formerly
moored his ship; and we cast anchor there in six fathoms, muddy
bottom, in calm water and safe from all winds. The inhabitants, when
they saw the ships sailing towards them, were much alarmed, and held
up branches of trees; and in a short time they sent on board to us
the man who had shot the arrow, to make peace with us. When this was
done, the natives came to the ships again as at first,
{Page 106}
but they did not dare to ask so great a price for their goods as
before, and were satisfied with what we chose to give them. We bought
so many cocoa-nuts this day that each of our crew had nine.
The 4th, a great many canoes came on board. We served seven
cocoa-nuts to each of our men.
The 5th, the wind was still Westerly. We bartered for cocoanuts,
but what we got were small and unripe.
The 6th, about eight in the morning, a breeze sprung up from the
land, and we took up our anchors to proceed on our voyage. At these
Islands, Jamna and Moa, we procured 6,000 cocoa-nuts,
and about 100 bunches of bananas for the two ships.[*] To help us in our traffick with the natives,
we took pieces of iron hoop, which we fitted with handles in the form
of knives, and made them somewhat bright and sharp.
Before we had sailed a mile, it fell calm, and soon after, the
Westerly wind returned.
The 8th, in the morning at sunrise, we had the great Island
Arimoa[+] right SW from us,
distant about three miles.
The 9th, we passed by the North side of Arimoa. At sunset
the North point of the Island bore EbS, distant seven miles. We were
here in 67 fathoms depth about three miles from the shore [of the
main land of New Guinea], which is very low. The wind was NW,
and we sailed slowly along [and slanting towards] the shore, having
soundings at 50, 40, 30, and 24 fathoms, all good bottom, and then we
put about on the other tack.
[* On six of the days that Tasman stopped at these
Islands, the numbers of cocoanuts that were shared out to each of his
men are specified. On five other days the numbers distributed are not
noticed, and it is probable they were in a smaller proportion. Making
allowance under the average for the five days, will give for the
number of men in both the ships at this time, about one
hundred.]
[+ Schouten's Chart does not show the Island
Arimoa to be larger than other Islands near it.]
Eyland Moa - Eyland Insou
{Page 107}
The 10th, the wind was from the South. We sailed here along a low
coast, in thick water of a greenish colour, which we supposed to come
out of rivers, but we were too far from the land to distinguish
exactly. We observed however, that the stream here set us continually
off shore. At noon, found the latitude, 1° 17' S; our longitude
155° 12'.
The 11th at noon, the wind was SE; the land not in sight. Found
our latitude 1° 3' S; longitude 154° 28'. We steered WbS.
Variation 6° 30' NE. In the night we had a fine breeze, but at
times light. It seems however as if this was the beginning of the
Eastern Monsoon.
The 12th, we saw Willem Schouten's Island. At noon the
North part of the Island bore from us due West distant six miles.
Found our latitude 0° 54' S; longitude 153°17'. In the night
we sailed along the North coast of Schouten's Island.
The 13th, in the morning, the West point of Schouten's Island bore
nearly WbS from us, two miles distant; and a small Island bore from
us NWbN, distant from the aforesaid point three or four miles. After
we had passed Willem Schouten's Island, we steered WSW to get
sight again of the main land. At noon, we supposed our latitude
0° 54' S; longitude 152° 6'. In the afternoon, we saw the
main land of New Guinea to the SSW, which was here low land.
Wind from between the East and SE.
The 14th. In the morning we came close to the land of New
Guinea. The inner land is very high, like the Island
Formosa; but near the coast, the land is almost every where
low. We sailed West and WbN along the coast towards the Cape de
Goede Hoop.[*] Eastward of the Cape
the land begins to be very high, even close to the shore, and without
any low land. It is as high as the land of Formosa.
[* Tasman has mistakenly applied this name to a Cape of
the main land of New Guinea; the Cape de Goede Hoop of
Le Maire and Schouten, being the West Cape of W. Schouten's
Island. See Vol. II. p, 432.]
{Page 108}
The 15th, we had a light wind from ENE. At noon, the Cape de
Goede Hoop bore South, distant three miles. We reckoned our
latitude 0° 41' S; longitude 149° 53'. Variation here 6°
NE.
The 16th, we were sailing past the Bay into which W. Schouten went
and was obliged to return. We had light winds and much calm, but we
perceive by the land that the current every day sets us Westward. At
noon the West point of the Bay bore SSW. Observed in latitude 0°
16' S, longitude 149° 9'. We saw several small Islands near the
aforesaid West point.
The 17th. This morning we sailed by the North side of a small
Island, at about a mile distance, and passed over a bank on which we
sounded in nine fathoms, stony bottom. When we had passed this first
bank, we had deep water; but soon after, we found ourselves, in seven
fathoms, the Island then bearing SbE. We saw five or six other
Islands before us Westward. At noon, the small Island we had passed
bore East, distant about three miles. Our latitude by account was
0° 20' S; longitude 148° 34'. At sunset, we saw NWbW from us,
seven or eight Islands lying in one line WbN and EbS from each other.
We left them on our right hand; and on our left we passed four small
Islands which lay close to the main land of New Guinea. Along
the coast are several small Bays, but with great depth of water. In
the night we anchored in 40 fathoms sandy bottom, opposite to a Bay,
and about three quarters of a mile from the shore, a large Island
bearing from us WbS, distant about six miles.
The 18th, early in the morning, we weighed anchor, and steered for
a Strait between the main land and the Island. At noon, we had a weak
breeze from the West and found a current setting against us, on which
account we anchored, having bottom at 16 fathoms, coral. We lay here
between an Island and a rock level with the surface of the water. We
had sailed six miles [since yesterday noon], and our latitude by
account was 0° 26' S;
{Page 109}
longitude ----.[*] After we anchored,
the current ran with more rapidity till four in the afternoon, when
it began to change; running one way Westward, and the flood Eastward,
so that we reckon a WSW moon makes high water here. We cannot be far
from the West end of Nova Guinea, for the coast begins to turn
Southward.
This afternoon, several boats came near us. The people in them
said they were Ternatans, and they spoke the Ternate language;
but they would not venture on board, and we believed them to be
pirates. In the night we had a violent storm, and very irregular
currents.
The 19th, in the morning, we got under sail. We had Southerly
winds and calms, and endeavoured to make our way to the Southward
near the Coast of New Guinea. We saw much cultivated land, and
had soundings from 25 to 50 fathoms. At noon we found the latitude
0° 35' S; longitude ----.
The 20th, we were endeavouring to get Southward between Islands.
We sailed over a bank in 5 fathoms. We found the currents here
running in so strange a manner that in my judgement there is no
possibility of giving a description of them.
This West point of New Guinea is extraordinary hilly land.
The coast here is full of turnings, with innumerable Bays and Islands
near it; and the currents in many places are as strong as the tide
before Flushing pier head, the flood running Northward, and
the ebb Southward; but the stream following the windings of the
coast, and the direction of the Straits between the Islands. We
landed at different places to get firewood,
[* In the Manuscript, the longitude is not given after
the 17th, but is mentioned with a blank left for the numbers, in
manner as above; and the same is done for some days following. In
Valentyn, the longitude is omitted for several days preceding the
18th of May, and on that day it is set down 147° 55'; which is a
quarter of a degree more Westward than the distance above specified
to have been sailed on the 18th, applied to the longitude on the
17th, will give; and was apparently calculated with an allowance for
a Westerly current.]
{Page 110}
which is in abundance. We found traces of people, but did not see any
body. The fishermen it appears come here at one season of the year to
dry their fish. Observed the variation here 4° 30' N.Easterly.
The 24th, we found our latitude at noon 1° 6' S; and
determined to steer for the Island Ceram.
The 26th, we saw the coast of Ceram.
[1643 June]
June the 15th, we arrived at Batavia. God be praised for
this Happy Voyage. Amen.
In the ship Heemskerk, dated as above,
Your most Humble
and most dutiful Servant,
(Undersigned) Abel Jansz Tasman.
From the Meridian of Greenwich.
By Tasman's Reckoning. By late Observations.
Frederick Hendrik Bay 146° 23' E. 148° 8' E.
Three Kings Island 169 33 172 25.
Anchorage at Amamocka 185 12 185 15.
Cape Santa Maria, 149 34 153 26.
East end of New Ireland
{Page 112}
It is observable in Tasman's Voyage, that whilst he was sailing
Eastward, without the Tropics, his reckoning in longitude was less
than the truth; and when within the Tropics he directed his course
Westward, his reckoning in longitude was always too great. The latter
circumstance seems to have proceeded from his making too large
allowance for leeward drift of the sea or current, in the trade
winds. The longitude by his reckoning between Amamock a and
Cape Santa Maria is nearly four degrees more than the
difference between those places as found by late observations; and
between Cape Santa Maria and Salomon Sweert' s hoek,
Tasman's reckoning is a degree more in longitude than Schouten's.
It was remarked in the introductory part of this Chapter, that
some of the less important parts of Captain Tasman's Journal would
not be inserted in the Copy now published. It is proper also to
notice the omission of Drawings. In the Manuscript Journal, the
Charts and Drawings amount to 38 in number. Copies will be found here
of all the Charts; but of the Views of Land and other Drawings, only
a small portion has been taken. The superior importance of Captain
Tasman's Discoveries, and the advantage of delivering them from his
own Journal, would have justified fuller publication than is here
given. Pains, however, have been taken, that nothing of consequence
should be wanting.
In conclusion, it must be allowed, that Abel Jansen Tasman was
both a great and a fortunate Discoverer, and that his success is in
part only to be attributed to Fortune. The track in which he sailed,
and the careful Reckoning kept by him, which so nearly assigns the
true situation to each of his discoveries, shew him to have been an
enterprizing and an able navigator; and it is to be esteemed no small
addition to his important discoveries, and indeed no slight evidence
of his merit, that be explored a larger portion of Unknown Sea in a
high latitude, and thereby restricted the limits of a supposed
Southern Continent, more than any other navigator between the time of
Magalhanes and the time of Captain Cook.
| It now only remains to be discovered, whether Nova Guinea is one continent with this Great South Land, or whether it is separated by channels and Islands lying between them; and also, whether the new Van Diemen's Land is the same continent with these two great countries or with one of them."--For which purposes, After fulfilling your orders at Amboina and Banda, you shall in the latter end of February (or sooner if possible) begin the voyage you are ordered upon, and sail Eastward to the Ture hoekorCape Valsche, situated in 8° S latitude on the South Coast of Nova Guinea; whence you are to continue Eastward along the coast to 9° S, crossing carefully the shallow Bight or Cove (vlakke bogt) at that part, and examining with the yacht about the High IslandorSpeult's River for a harbour, also inspecting the state of the country; and in the interim dispatch the De Brak Tender to look into the Cove for two |
| or three days, to examine if within the Great Inlet there
is an entrance into the South Sea, which may be soon known by
the course of the currents. It is apprehended you will in these parts meet the South East trade-wind, which will make it difficult to keep in with the coast; nevertheless, endeavour by all means to proceed, that we may be certain whether this land [ofNew Guinea] is divided from the Great and Known South Land, or not; and you shall try (if possible) to run to the SE as far as to the new Van Diemen's Land, steering along the East coast of the Known South Land according to its trending; and from Van Diemen's Land to the Islands St. Pieter and Francois[*], and following the direction of the coast Westward to De Wits Land and Willems River, in 22° S latitude, when the known South Land would be entirely circumnavigated, and discovered to be the largest Island in the globe. But as it is possible the Land of Nova Guinea is joined to the South Land, you are then, which the SE trade-wind will enable you to do, to run along the North [NW] coast from 17° to 22° S, whence you shall steer along the Land of EendragttoHoutmans Abrolhos; and when you have found a proper place thereabouts for anchoring, you are to endeavour to find a chest containing 8,000 rix dollars, that was lost in the wreck of the ship Batavia in the year 1629. Likewise make search on the main land thereabout, after two Netherlanders, who, having forfeited their lives, were put on shore by their Commander Francisco Polsert, if they are still alive, in which case you can enquire of them concerning the country; and, if they entreat you to that purpose, give them a passage hither. On |
| this occasion you ought to search for a good watering and refreshing place in 26° or 28° S latitude, which would be very desirable for our outward-bound ships. |
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