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GastroIntestinal Stasis, The Silent Killer
Dana M. Krempels, Ph.D.
Department of Biology
University of Miami
Coral Gables, FL 33124
It's an all too familiar story. "My bunny stopped
eating, and then she just died."
When we ask for details, we often learn
that not only did the bunny stop eating, but she had been producing
extremely small or even no fecal droppings, or showed symptoms of﹃runny
stool.﹄True diarrhea (unformed, liquid fecal matter) is uncommon in
rabbits. The runny stool sometimes misidentified as "diarrhea" in rabbits
is more often composed of unformed, almost-liquid cecotropes.
Rabbits produce two types of pellets: fecal pellets
(left in the litterbox) and cecotropes (soft, pungent, normally shaped
like a cluster of grapes and reingested by the rabbit to obtain essential
nutrients). Liquid or mushy cecotropes can result from an imbalance
of the normal bacterial and fungal flora of the cecum (the bunny's
intestinal "fermentation vat"). The floral imbalance can be caused by a
number of factors, such as the wrong antibiotic (oral penicillins and
lincosamine antibiotics can be
very dangerous to rabbits for this reason!) or a diet too rich in digestible
carbohydrates and too low in crude fiber. Often, however, it is caused by
a slowing of the normal peristaltic muscular contractions which push food
and liquids through the intestines. The slowdown or cessation of
peristalsis of the intestine is known as gastrointestinal (GI) stasis or
ileus.
What Causes GI Stasis?
A rabbit's intestine can become static for a
variety of reasons, including (1) stress, (2) dehydration, (3) pain from
another underlying disorder or illness (such as gas, dental
problems,
infections, or urinary tract
disorders) (4) an intestinal blockage or, (5)
insufficient dietary crude fiber. Left untreated, the slowdown or complete
cessation of normal intestinal movement (peristalsis) can result in a
painful death, in a relatively short period of time. If your rabbit stops
eating or producing feces for 12 hours or more, you should consider the
condition an EMERGENCY. GET YOUR BUNNY TO A RABBIT-SAVVY VETERINARIAN
IMMEDIATELY.
An intestinal slowdown can cause ingested hair and food
to lodge anywhere along the GI tract, creating a potential blockage. Also, because
the cecum is not emptying quickly enough, harmful bacteria such as
Clostridium species (related to the ones that cause botulism and
tetanus) can proliferate, their numbers overwhelming those of the normal,
beneficial bacteria and fungi in the cecum. Once this overgrowth occurs,
gas emitted by the bacteria can cause extreme pain. Some Clostridium
species also produce potentially deadly toxins. It is the liver's job to detoxify these
poisons, at a high cost to that all-important organ. Damage to the liver
can be a serious--even life-threatening--side effect of GI stasis.
How Can GI Stasis be
detected?
Symptoms of GI stasis include very small (or no)
fecal pellets, sometimes clinging to the bunny's bottom. In some cases,
very small fecal pellets will be encased in clear or yellowish mucus. This
potentially serious problem (enteritis, an inflammation of the
intestinal lining) should be treated as an emergency.
With GI stasis, the normal, quiet gurgling of the
healthy intestine may be replaced either by very loud, violent gurgles (gas
moving around painfully!) or silence. The bunny may become
lethargic, have no appetite and may hunch in a ball, loudly crunching his
teeth in pain.
GI Stasis and the "Hairball"
Myth
Sometimes, a rabbit suffering from GI stasis is
diagnosed as having a "hairball." In reality, an apparent hairball usually
is a result of GI stasis--not the cause. A vet who has not palpated
many rabbit abdomens may be unfamiliar with the normal, sometimes "doughy"
feel of the healthy rabbit stomach. A "doughy" stomach is usually cause for concern
only when accompanied by an empty lower GI and symptoms of abdominal
discomfort.
Like those of most herbivores, the stomach and
intestines of a healthy rabbit are never empty. A rabbit may eat
relatively normal amounts of food, almost up to the time the GI tract shuts
down. Because of this, the stomach may contain a large bolus of food when
stasis occurs. Unlike the typical cat hairball, which usually consists
entirely of hair, a mass misidentified as a "hairball" in a rabbit is
usually composed mostly of food held together by hair and mucus. Such a
bolus, even if it is dehydrated and unable to pass out of the stomach when
initially found,
usually can be broken down slowly with plenty of oral fluids and even enzyme supplements,
if the vet deems them necessary. However, if the mass is there as a
result of chronic GI stasis, simply treating the mass without addressing the
GI stasis will be unproductive in the long term.
If you suspect that your bunny is experiencing GI
stasis, you must take him/her to your rabbit-experienced veterinarian
without delay. Tell the vet your suspicions. S/he will probably listen for
normal intestinal sounds and palpate the bunny's abdomen. The vet also may
wish to take radiographs (x-rays) to see whether the various parts of the
digestive tract contain normal ingested matter, feces or foreign
objects--or are empty and gassy. The appearance of the digestive tract
will help the vet determine whether there is an obstruction and, if so,
where it is located.
If a true intestinal obstruction (almost always
accompanied by severe bloating and acute pain) is present, the use of
intestinal motility drugs (described later) could make the situation worse
by pushing the blockage into a narrow area where it completely obstructs the
intestine. However, if the mass is not
causing an acute, complete blockage, medical alternatives
to surgery should be considered first. A gastrotomy--surgical opening of the stomach--may be
performed to remove a gastric obstruction, but rabbits who undergo this procedure
have an abysmally low survival rate. Those who
survive the surgery itself often succumb a few days later to peritonitis
or other complications, even when under the care of the most practiced,
skillful rabbit surgeon. Surgery on the rabbit GI tract should be
considered only as a last resort.
Can GI Stasis Be Successfully
Treated?
If your vet has determined that there is no
intestinal obstruction, there are several treatments s/he may wish to use
to help your bunny in distress. As always, do not perform any of these
procedures or try to administer any of these medications without the
supervision of a veterinarian experienced with rabbit disorders and
treatments.
I. Mechanical Treatments
A. Abdominal massage.
One of the single most
effective ways to stimulate a lazy gut into action is with gentle massage.
Place the bunny on a secure countertop on a towel (or in your lap, if the
bunny feels secure there), making sure he can't jump down and hurt
himself. With your hands and fingertips, gently massage the abdomen. Knead
as deeply as the bunny will allow, but back off immediately if he
expresses pain. We have found that gently lifting the rabbit's
hindquarters a few inches (with the bunny's head safely tucked into the
massager's elbow, and the spine firmly supported) helps gas to pass more easily,
and seems to be
comforting to the bunny. Once s/he gets over the initial surprise of being
held this way, a rabbit will often allow his/her legs to droop in comfort
and relief as the massage helps gas pockets move towards the exit.
A rabbit's internal organs are very delicate; care must
be taken to avoid bruising them and making the situation worse. After a
bit of manual massage, try an electric vibrating massager. This seems to
be as effective as manual massage, and it's worthwhile to invest
in some type of massager with a large, flat surface that can be held
against the bunny's tummy for relatively long periods. Press the massager
firmly against the abdomen, start on low and work your way higher. The bunny
may be a bit taken aback at first, but almost every bunny on whom we've
tried massage has settled down and enjoyed the soothing vibrations. In
addition to stimulating the muscles, the massage seems to help break up
gas bubbles and ease colic. Massage as long and as often as the bunny will
allow and enjoy.
B. Simethicone
(liquid, pediatric suspension or
tablets) is essential for the relief of gas pain which usually accompanies
ileus. For relief of acute gas pain, 1-2 cc (20mg/ml suspension) can be
given as often as every hour for three doses, then 1 cc every three to
eight hours. This substance has no known drug interactions, is not
absorbed through the intestinal lining and acts only on a mechanical
principle: it changes the surface tension of the frothy gas bubbles in the
gut, joining them into larger, easier-to-pass bubbles. Simethicone is
practically inert, and is safe to give, even as a precaution, as long as it
is not given long term. (Note:
liquid suspensions of simethicone are relatively expensive. Less expensive
versions, such as 125mg gel capsules are equally effective. A bunny can
safely receive the contents of half a capsule at the rate described
above.) A flatulent bunny is a happy bunny!
C. Monitoring Body Temperature.
Of utmost importance is careful monitoring of
body temperature via (plastic, unbreakable) rectal thermometer. Normal rabbit body temperature ranges from about
101o - 103o F. A higher temperature may indicate
either stress or an infection, the latter requiring immediate veterinary
attention. A temperature lower than 101oF is of
even greater concern than a mildly elevated temperature. Abnormally low body
temperature (hypothermia) may indicate shock or septicemia, a bacterial infection that
has entered the bloodstream. A rabbit with a temperature lower than
100o F should be considered an extreme emergency. Pack the
rabbit with warm water bottles wrapped in towels and get him to your
rabbit-savvy veterinarian immediately. Medications often will not
be effective when given to a rabbit suffering from hypothermia, so the
first step in saving your bunny's life is to get his body temperature back
into normal range. Warm water bottles and warmed subcutaneous fluids can
be used to achieve this end, but it can take an hour or more if the bunny
is severely hypothermic.
D. Enema.
It may be helpful to administer an
enema of warm, clean water mixed with a very small bit of unscented, laxative
grade mineral oil. The addition of epsom salts to the enema liquid (at a
rate of about 1 tablespoon per 30-40 cc's of water) may help draw fluid
from surrounding tissues into the intestine, helping hydrate impacted
matter. If you use epsom salts, however, you must be certain that the
bunny is generally well hydrated with subcutaneous Lactated Ringer Solution so the reservoir
of fluids in the bunny's body will not be depleted.
Before you attempt to perform an enema on your rabbit,
please ask your veterinarian to instruct you in this process during a
regular office visit. Don't wait for an emergency to learn how to do this.
If you cannot reach your vet when your bunny is in stasis, you will be out of
luck!
We administer the enema with a pediatric rubber ear
bulb/syringe. A 5 lb rabbit can safely be given 10-15 cc's of liquid
enema. Mix the water and oil well. Place the bunny on her back, well
supported so she doesn't kick. Gently insert the lubricated tip of the
syringe into the anus, no deeper than 1/2 - 3/4 inch. (Note: if you're not
sure which orifice is the right one, the anus is the one that winks back
at you when touched.) Be gentle. NEVER FORCE ANYTHING! Slowly empty the
bulb and let the bunny remain on her back for at least 30 seconds, to
allow the liquid to travel up the tract a bit. When you allow the bunny to
flip back into normal position, gently lift her hindquarters a couple of
inches (firmly supporting the spine!) so that the liquid travels up the GI
tract. You may need to gently hold
the anus closed to avoid a fountain.
WE DO NOT RECOMMEND THAT A CATHETER BE USED TO
DELIVER AN ENEMA. The rabbit's lower GI tract is extremely delicate
and fragile, and it is distressingly easy to perforate the rectum or small
intestine, with disatrous results. The ear syringe works well, and is far safer than
inserting a catheter deep into the lower GI tract.
An enema delivers liquid to the source. It can help
hydrate hardened, dehydrated fecal matter in the lower GI, even when
subcutaneously administered fluids don't seem to help. The very presence
of the warm liquid also seems to stimulate the muscles of the lower GI
tract.
E. Petroleum-based laxatives: use with
caution.
Laxative-grade mineral oil or commercial products such as
Laxatone or Petromalt do not affect intestinal motility. Some
veterinarians prescribe them in the hope that they might help to slide
dry, impacted matter through the intestine more easily.
Note, however, that if the intestinal contents are
severely dehydrated and brick-hard (yes, we have seen this!), a coating of
vaseline-like substance over them will merely impede their re-hydration
and make it more difficult for the mass to break up and begin passing
normally. For
this reason, it is probably wise to concentrate on re-hydrating the
intestinal contents before using petroleum-based laxatives, if they are
to be used at all.
Note also that whereas malt-flavored remedies in a tube
are often preferred by the bunny, some vets believe that their higher
viscosity may actually contribute to holding a mass of impacted food
together, especially if the intestinal contents are dehydrated. Unscented,
laxative grade mineral oil is less viscous, and may be more effective.
Always administer such substances with care so that the bunny does not
aspirate (inhale) any.
Petroleum-based laxatives should not be given daily or long term, as they
can impede the absorption of important, fat-soluble vitamins.
II. Non-prescription supportive measures
A. Oral fluids
(normal fluid intake for a healthy
mammal is approximately
90 - 100cc per kg--or about an ounce per pound--of body
weight per day) are essential for hydrating intestinal contents that may
have formed a hard mass and be nearly impossible to pass. Water is best,
but unsweetened Pedialyte, an electrolyte drink designed for human infants
(and available in the infant section of the grocery store), may also be
used. Avoid any fluids containing large amounts of sugar (even Gatorade), as
these can exacerbate the overgrowth of harmful bacteria in the cecum.
B. Force feeding.
Anorexia can cause
gastric ulcers and hepatic lipidosis (fatty liver disease) relatively
rapidly in rabbits.
Even 12 hours without eating is cause for concern. As long as your vet has
determined that there is no actual blockage, and that there is enough slow
movement of the GI to keep the stomach from becoming overly full, keep the
bunny eating! An excellent, ready-to-mix emergency food for compromised
rabbits is Critical Care, available from Oxbow Hay Company
. However, if you do not have ready access to Critical
Care, one quick and easy recipe is to soak about 2 - 3 tablespoons of
pellets in about 1/2 cup of warm water or chamomile tea until they are soft and
fluffy. The pellets will fluff more quickly in slightly warmed solution,
but overheating may destroy some of the nutrient content of the pellets.
Mix the pellet fluff with additional water or tea, vegetable baby food or
even with canned pumpkin until it
forms a somewhat liquid paste with the consistency of pudding. Allow to
cool before using a large-bore feeding syringe (available at most
pharmacies) to deliver the goods.
Insert the tip of the syringe into the space behind the
incisors and squeeze gently sideways to avoid squirting food down the trachea (windpipe).
Give only
1-2 cc at a time, allowing the bunny time to chew and swallow.
Aspiration of food can be life threatening, so do this with great care!
C. Unlimited grass hay.
Provide plenty of fresh
grass hay, such as timothy. Even if the rabbit won't
eat timothy, oat, brome or other grass hays, it is probably best to avoid
offering alfalfa hay. Alfalfa is too high in protein and calcium to be a
healthy part of the rabbit diet. It also is more likely to cause bloat,
and more likely to harbor the parasitic fungi that produce potentially
deadly mycotoxins than grass hays. For these reasons, we never feed alfalfa hay,
even to healthy rabbits.
D. Fresh, wet, leafy herbs.
The fiber and moisture in
fresh vegetables also will help stimulate the intestine. Kale is a good
choice. If the rabbit refuses to eat, try fragrant, fresh herbs such as
mint, basil, dill, cilantro, tarragon, sage, fennel, parsley and others.
Sometimes it helps to nip off the ends of the stems
and wave the fresh, juicy stems under the bunny's nose or even gently
insert the stem into the corner of the bunny's mouth. You can even lightly
pat the herbs against the bunny's face until she gets annoyed with you and
grabs the offending sprig. Sometimes all it takes is a little taste to get
the bunny nibbling. Try a variety until one of them gets the bunny to eat.
You never know which herb will stimulate the appetite, so it's best to
have a variety on hand.
E. Lactobacillus acidophilus
is not
normally a member of the rabbit's intestinal ecosystem, but we have
noticed that a good dose of dried Lactobacillus powder (available
at health food stores in powder or capsules) seems to help the rabbit
survive the crisis until the intestine starts moving again. No one knows
why (and some would disagree), but it seems to help. It certainly does not
hurt. Use non-dairy powder--NOT yogurt. The milk
sugars and carbohydrates in yogurt may promote growth of harmful bacteria.
Probiotic pastes such as Benebac are available at feed
stores, and also might be helpful. Products designed for horses are
generally safe and possibly effective for rabbits.
F. Cecotropes
Some veterinarians believe that
cecotropes from a healthy rabbit, although difficult to obtain, can be
used to re-establish normal cecal flora in a compromised rabbit. However,
other veterinarians and experienced rabbit caretakers are of the opinion
that administering cecotropes to a sick rabbit may do more harm than good
for two reasons: (1) force feeding cecotropes is very stressful to a sick
rabbit, since no one likes being force-fed someone else's poop and (2)
even a known, healthy donor rabbit could harbor microorganisms in the
cecotropes that could become pathogenic in an already compromised
rabbit.
Also, because the normal cecotrope is coated with
mucus that protects the bacteria while they travelthrough the stomach,
mashing the cecotropes into a
pellet mush might well render them useless. Given time and
the proper supportive care, your rabbit will be able to re-establish a
healthy cecal flora on his own, without the stress of being force fed
foreign cecotropes.
However, if you and your vet absolutely insist on
trying this, you can obtain cecotropes from a donor rabbit by diapering
the donor, or briefly placing an E-collar on him/her during the late
afternoon when cecotrophy usually occurs. Don't use the E-collar if the
donor rabbit seems very stressed or upset by it. (You don't need two
rabbits suffering from GI stasis!)
III. Prescription/veterinary
treatments
A. An intestinal motility agent,
such as
cisapride (Propulsid) or metoclopramide (Reglan) will help get a static
intestine moving again. Both of the aforementioned drugs are safe and
effective for rabbits. Cisapride, a more recently developed drug, has
fewer potential nervous system side effects with long term use than
Reglan. We have used it long term (for several weeks at a time) without
apparent adverse side effects. However, as with any drug, your
veterinarian should be aware of any potential drug interactions between
cisapride/metaclopramide and any other medications your rabbit may be
taking. For example, narcotic painkillers should never be given with
Reglan due to the potential for dangerous interaction between the two.
It may take as long as two weeks on metaclopramide
and/or cisapride before the intestine is fully motile again, and patience
and careful nursing for the duration are essential. In severe cases of GI
stasis, both drugs can be used simultaneously. Because they work on
different areas of the digestive tract, they may have a synergistic effect.
Conventional wisdom holds that if there is a
possibility of an intestinal obstruction, these drugs should not be used.
However, more and more rabbit-savvy veterinarians are noting that unless
there is a problem with the pyloric valve or an acute and true blockage of
the stomach, motility drugs generally do not make the problem worse.
So far, there is no consensus on this
aspect of the problem, and it will be up to your veterinarian (and you, as
your bunny's health advocate) to
determine the course that seems right for your bunny. Once again, it is
imperative that you not take matters into your own hands. Have an
experienced rabbit vet diagnose the problem and prescribe proper
treatment!
B. Subcutaneous Fluid Therapy.
Note that
examining a rabbit's skin turgor (via "tenting" the skin) will often not
give an accurate indication of the animal's hydration status. A more
useful diagnostic procedure for rabbits is palpation of the intestinal
tract, which will feel very "doughy" throughout if the rabbit is
dehydrated. Because rabbits absorb large amounts of water into their
tissues from the
intestine to drive other bodily functions, a rabbit whose skin feels
well-hydrated may still have an intestine packed with a dehydrated mass.
Keeping the tissues well-hydrated via appropriate administration of subcutaneous
Lactated Ringers Solution (LRS) under your vet's supervision will not only keep the bunny well
hydrated, but will also ensure that the electrolytes are balanced and make
the bunny feel better in general.
A dehydrated rabbit will feel tired and ill, and may
not have as much will to live as one who is well-hydrated. Rabbits in GI
stasis tend to be unwilling to eat or drink, so it may be a good idea to
administer subcutaneous fluids as a precaution, unless the rabbit has
known kidney or heart malfunctions, or other problems that your vet will
be able to determine that would contradict administration of subQ fluids.
As with the enema described previously, you should be
able to do this procedure at home. But do not wait for an emergency to
learn how to do it. Have your vet teach you how to administer fluids
during a regular office visit. It could save your bunny's life.
C. Cholestyramine (Questran)
is a granular resin
with a high affinity for negatively charged, hydrophobic compounds, such as
those produced by Clostridium spiroformes as toxins. Cholestyramine is
used in human medicine to reduce serum cholesterol, and so is readily available at
most pharmacies. If the rabbit has mucus in the stool, there is a good
chance that Clostridium bacteria are proliferating and
producing dangerous exotoxins. Questran will absorb these and be passed
out harmlessly in the feces. Questran should be suspended in a
generous amount of liquid (1/2 teaspoon of powder in at least 20 cc
of water) and administered orally: because of its hydrophilic properties,
it can dehydrate intestinal contents if given with insufficient water.
Questran does not affect the action of the intestine; it is not absorbed
by the body. Rather, it works directly upon the contents of the gut. We
believe this substance has helped save the lives of many rabbits suffering
from a severely inflamed intestine simply by sequestering toxins and buying time
while gut motility medications and other treatments get the intestine
moving again. It is safe and effective, used as directed.
D. Enzymatic digestive aids
can be helpful in
loosening and softening an impacted mass of food and hair (which, we
remind you, is usually a symptom, not the cause of the problem!).
Proteolytic (protein-dissolving) enzymes may be of either plant or animal
origin. Papain (found in papaya) and bromelain (found in pineapple) may
help to break down mucus binding an obstruction, thus allowing it to
slowly break up and pass. However, there is no evidence to suggest that
these enzymes break down keratin, which is the main protein component of
hair. Both papain and bromelain are available in powdered form at most
health food stores, and should be reconstituted in water or Pedialyte
shortly before use to ensure maximum potency. Papaya tablets are little
more than a sugary treat: they contain very little active enzyme. Canned
pineapple juice is useless, as it has been cooked, and its enzymes
denatured and inactivated. Even fresh pineapple juice is not as desirable
as powdered bromelain, since it is high in sugar, which is just about the
last thing you want to add to a compromised rabbit's intestine!
If a hair/food mass proves particularly stubborn, even
after rehydration efforts and plant enzymes have been tried, your vet may wish to try a
more powerful,
animal-derived enzyme product such as Viokase, which contains pancreatic
enzymes to break down proteins, amylases to break down indigestible
carbohydrates and lipases to break down fats. Although these enzymes may
be better than bromelain or papain at breaking down an obstruction composed of
ingested matter, they
should be used with great caution, as they can burn the esophagus and
cause temporary (two or three days) discomfort in an already sick bunny. If
Viokase is to be used, it may help to administer just enough pediatric simethicone
or laxative grade mineral oil to coat the esophagus for a moment just
before the enzyme solution is given.
E. Appetite stimulants.
B-complex vitamins,
administered orally or injected, or Periactin (cyproheptadine) can be used
to stimulate appetite. The former not only help stimulate appetite, but
might also help supply what the bunny is missing by not producing or
eating his cecotropes. Periactin is available in 4 mg tablets or a 1 mg/ml
liquid suspension. An average-sized (4 - 6 lbs.) rabbit can be given 1mg
by mouth, twice per day. It is vital to keep the bunny eating, even if you
must force-feed. Anorexia can rapidly result in gastric ulcers and serious
liver degeneration.
F. Antibiotics: Use with caution, if at all.
Some vets routinely prescribe antibiotics for a rabbit suffering from GI
stasis, either to combat the overgrowth of Clostridium spp.
(metronidozole [Flagyl] is often used for this purpose) or to prevent
secondary bacterial infection in the compromised rabbit (other rabbit-safe
antibiotics such as the fluoroquinolones or sulfas might be used for this
purpose.) While such cautionary measures may be taken, the practitioner
should recall that unnecessary use of antibiotics is a prime reason that
so many resistant strains of bacteria are evolving even as we speak.
Unless the rabbit shows signs of bacterial infection (which can sometimes be the
reason the intestine shut down in the first place), we urge a conservative
approach: don't use antibiotics unless they are absolutely necessary.
IV. Pain Relief: The key to keeping the bunny
fighting to live.
The importance of analgesia to a rabbit's recovery
cannot be overstated. A rabbit suffering from GI stasis will sometimes
just seem to give up and die, possibly because of the sometimes extreme abdominal
pain. Although officially approved only for use in horses, flunixin
meglumine (Banamine) is an excellent NSAID (non-steroidal anti-inflammatory
drug) for use in rabbits. Although this drug can produce gastric ulcers
in some species, substantial anecdotal
evidence (involving many hundreds of rabbits over a period of many years)
suggests that Banamine is tolerated well by rabbits, even when
administered daily for several weeks. We have observed no adverse side
effects from Banamine in our rabbits, some of whom have had to receive it
daily for a week or longer.
Meloxicam (metacam) and Rimadyl (carprofen) are other NSAIDs
which have been used with good results in rabbits.
Torbugesic, an opioid analgesic, provides good
pain relief at relatively low doses. Although some practitioners fear that
an opioid might contribue to GI slowdown, pain can certainly do the same.
We have used opiods repeatedly in cases like this, with good results.
We also have had success at relieving colic pain and
inflammation of the intestinal lining with sulfasalazine, a combination
sulfa antibiotic and NSAID compound.
Sulfasalazine works topically to reduce intestinal inflammation.
Barium also may be useful as an intestinal "tonic" to
relieve pain and help stimulate peristalsis, but its action is slow as
compared to that of the aforementioned analgesics. As always, your
veterinarian is the one best able to decide which type of pain relief is
appropriate for your rabbit, given the specific conditions of his/her
illness.
V. The Road to Recovery: Reduce Stress. ("If it
ain't broke, don't fix it.")
It is essential that the caretaker faced
with a rabbit in GI stasis be patient, allowing the treatments and
medications to work. Rabbits are easily stressed, and excessive handling
should be avoided. It may take several days before any fecal pellets are
seen, and it may take two weeks or more of motility therapy before the intestine is
moving normally again. We know of one
case in which a rabbit produced no fecal pellets for 14 days, but finally
did respond to gentle, consistent administration of the above treatment
regimen. Patience and persistence are key.
Do not make more trips to the veterinarian's office
with the rabbit than absolutely necessary (the stress of travel can slow
recovery), but DO contact your veterinarian frequently to report on
progress and any changes. Whenever possible, administer medications at
home, where the rabbit feels safe and secure.
While you are treating your sick bunny, NEVER separate
him/her from his/her bonded partner(s). The stress of separation itself
can make the problem worse. We have known bunnies who seemed at death's
door to recover when they were provided with the love and constant
attention of their bonded mate. If your bunny does not have a mate, it is
even more important that you, his best friend, show him a great deal of
calm attention and affection during his ordeal. Rabbits seem to understand when
they are being fussed over, and it may help them recover more quickly to
know that they are not being abandoned in their misery. But do this
within reason. Many a rabbit can sense a caregiver's fear for his safety,
and this in itself can cause stress. Visit and love your bunny, but also
give him time to himself to recover.
Every bunny parent should have a stethoscope (not
necessarily an expensive one) to monitor intestinal sounds. The gradual
return of gentle gurgling is a very good sign: once this begins, the
rabbit is on the road to recovery, even if fecal pellets don't begin
pouring out the chute. Administration of intestinal motility agents,
gentle massage and supportive care as recounted above should be continued,
and gradually tapered as fecal pellets slowly begin to come through the
system.
Do not be alarmed if the first batch of fecal pellets
is small, hard and misshapen, and even accompanied by some mucus. This is to be expected.
Also do not be
surprised if the rabbit produces a small bunch of pellets, nothing for a
day, and then a bit more. The intestine sometimes seems to regain its
function in fits and starts, rather than all at once. Consistent, gentle
nursing and reduction of stress are essential at this time.
PLEASE RESIST THE TEMPTATION TO FORCE ADDITIONAL,
AGGRESSIVE TREATMENT ONCE THE RABBIT BEGINS TO RECOVER. RECOVERY FROM GI
STASIS IS SOMETIMES MADDENINGLY GRADUAL. [We know of one instance in which
a rabbit was starting to produce fecal pellets and showing signs of
recovery, but the veterinarian overseeing the case insisted on
anesthetizing the rabbit to perform oral gavage, enemas with an extension
tube and vigorous abdominal massage. Despite advice to the contrary,
this veterinarian believed that the mass in the stomach could not possibly
pass without such treatment. Tragically, the rabbit died. Necropsy
revealed a ruptured liver. We cannot help but wonder whether excessive
handling and the unnecessarily aggressive treatments contributed to, or
even caused this rabbit's demise.]
VI. MOST IMPORTANT OF ALL: Backtracking
to the Cause
Remember: Ileus is not an illness in and of itself. It is a
SYMPTOM of an underlying disorder that has caused the bunny enough stress
or pain to cause the GI tract to slow down or stop.
Hence, ileus may be your first clue that something else
is wrong that needs proper diagnosis and treatment.
Once your bunny is recovering from the immediate GI stasis
threat, it's time to look for the ultimate cause of the problem.
● Does your rabbit
get insufficient fiber in her diet?
●Are you giving her too many starchy
treats?
●Does she have an underlying infection or illness that's causing
enough pain/stress to shut down her intestine?
● Does she have overgrown molars
or an abscessed tooth? (NOTE: It is wise to check this possibility at the
first sign of any change in your rabbit's eating habits. If your bunny has
overgrown molars, this alone can cause an unwillingness to eat certain
items, or even result in complete anorexia.)
● Have there been major changes in the household that are causing
psychological stress to the bunny (loss of the bunny's bonded partner, a new pet in the
house, visitors, construction, etc.)?
Any of the above could trigger an ileus event, and must be diagnosed and
corrected if
your bunny is not to suffer a chronic recurrence of the ileus problem.
If your rabbit does not seem fully normal,
even after the GI tract is
moving well again, it's time to ask your vet to do some blood work, a deep oral exam (to
check for molar problems), radiographs (don't
forget the head!), a complete check of the urinary tract, and any diagnostics
your rabbit-experienced veterinarian deems necessary to get to the root of
the problem.
DO NOT wait for an emergency to find a veterinarian who
is experienced and good with rabbits. Unfortunately, many emergency
clinics will not even see rabbits, let alone know how to properly
care for one in acute distress. A veterinarian who treats a rabbit as if
s/he were a dog or cat might do more harm than good. Plan now and avoid
heartache later! Find a good rabbit vet in your area via the House Rabbit Society Veterinarian
Listings.
VII. Prevention: The Best
Medicine
The best cure for GI stasis is
prevention. Be sure your rabbit companion gets plenty of dietary fiber
from fresh grass hay. Feed high fiber (22% or higher crude fiber) pellets.
Be sure your rabbit is drinking sufficient water to keep ingested food
hydrated and moving smoothly. It helps to offer at least 4 cups of fresh,
wet leafy greens per 5 lbs. of rabbit daily. And don't forget that regular
exercise not only keeps the skeletal muscles strong: it also keeps the
smooth muscles of the intestines well-toned and active.
Regular visits (including a molar check!) to your rabbit-experienced
veterinarian will
ensure that your bunny pal doesn't develop health problems that go
undetected. Once such a problem becomes serious, it may manifest itself as
GI stasis.
So here's to healthy peristalsis! May your home be blessed with
great, big, healthy piles of gorgeous bunny poops. All in the litterbox, of
course.
copyright July 1997 - Dana Krempels
Revised: June 2005
This article is dedicated to Alex, who died because no
one attending him recognized the symptoms of ileus before it was too late.
Alex, I wish I had known then what I know now. But your life and untimely
passing inspired this article, which I hope will save the lives of other
rabbits.
The author gratefully acknowledges the assistance of
Mary Cotter, Ed.D. and Susan Kelleher, D.V.M., for their input and
feedback.
I also thank George Flentke, Ph.D. (University of
Wisconsin Pharmacology Dept.) for information on the pharmaceuticals named
in this article. I thank Mary Cotter, Ed.D. for her contribution to
treatment protocols and for her editorial expertise. I also thank Kevin
Johnson for his support and editorial expertise.
The treatments and protocols outlined in this article
were developed after discussions with many veterinarians familiar with the
condition of ileus in rabbits. In particular, I wish to thank (in
alphabetical order) Thomas Goldsmith, D.V.M., Jeff Jenkins, D.V.M, Susan
Kelleher, D.V.M. and Maya Menchaca, D.V.M. Also, several experienced,
knowledgeable rabbit rescuers have contributed hints and tips for home
treatments. Of these contributors, Mary Cotter Ed.D. has been an
invaluable resource and constant inspiration.
PLEASE DO NOT RE-POST THIS
ARTICLE AT ANY OTHER WEB SITE!
LINKS TO THIS SITE ARE APPRECIATED, BUT LIFTING AND REPOSTING THE CONTENTS
ARE NOT.
THE TREATMENTS AND PROTOCOLS DESCRIBED
HERE ARE SUBJECT TO CONSTANT REVISION AND IMPROVEMENT AS NEW INFORMATION
BECOMES AVAILABLE. NEW INFORMATION ON TREATING ILEUS POSTED HERE
WILL NOT BE INCLUDED IN "PIRATED" VERSIONS POSTED ELSEWHERE!
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