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(No. 43.) Government House, Sydney, 14th July, 1814. Sir,— 1. Having some time since determined on having a carriage road constructed from Emu Plains, on the left bank of the river Nepean, across the Blue Mountains, to that fine tract of open country to the westward of them, discovered lately by Mr. Evans, and having recently received from you a voluntary offer of your superintending and directing the working party to be employed on this very important service, I now most readily avail myself of your very liberal and handsome offer of superintending and directing the construction of this road; and do invest you with full power and authority to carry out this important design into complete effect, Government furnishing you with the necessary means to enable you to do so. 2. The number of artificers and labourers—namely, thirty—and the guard of eight soldiers you have yourself already selected, or required, shall be allowed and furnished to you forthwith for this service, and they shall be supplied with a plentiful and adequate ration of provisions whilst employed upon it. 3. Herewith you will receive a list of the number of artificers and labourers allowed for this purpose, together with a scale on the back thereof of the weekly ration of provisions they are to receive. You will also receive herewith for your guidance copies of my letters addressed to the Deputy Commissary-General on the subject of the provisions, stores, tools, utensils, arms, ammunition, slops, and other necessaries to be furnished from his depôt for this service, all of which will be forwarded to you to the depôt established on Emu Plains forthwith, and which you will be pleased to receive and take charge of on their arrival there, placing such a guard over them as you may deem expedient, the sergeant commanding the guard of soldiers being instructed to receive all his orders from you for the guidance of himself and party, and for their distribution. You will likewise receive herewith for your information a general list, or schedule, of the provisions, stores, slops, tools, implements, and other necessaries intended to be forwarded to you from Sydney by the two separate conveyances or convoys, including one horse, two new carts (with harness), and two yokes of well-broken-in bullocks, it being my intention to send off the first convoy from Sydney to-morrow morning for Emu Plains, and the second convoy in a fortnight afterwards. 4. I am in hopes the provisions, tools, and other necessaries will arrive on the banks of the Nepean in time to enable you to commence the construction of the new intended road on Monday, the 18th inst. Entertaining the fullest confidence in your zeal, knowledge, and abilities for conducting and executing this service in the manner intended, it becomes unnecessary for me to enter into any detail on the subject, the more especially as you are already in full possession of my wishes and sentiments, as communicated to you on our late conversation on this head. Suffice it, therefore, for me to specify here a few of the principal leading points necessary to direct your more particular attention to:— Firstly: The road is to commence at the ford (already determined on) on the river Nepean, Emu Plains, and from thence across the Blue Mountains to the Macquarie River, and a centrical part of Bathurst Plains, following the track laid down by Mr. Evans' map, of which I have already furnished you with a copy. But in case you should, upon further examination of the track he followed, find it advisable to make any occasional deviations therefrom, you have my full permission to do so. Secondly: The road thus made must be at least 12 ft. wide, so as to permit two carts or other wheel carriages to pass each other with ease. The timber in forest ground to be cut down and cleared away 20 ft. wide, grubbing up the stumps and filling up the holes, so that a four-wheel carriage or cart may pass without difficulty or danger. Thirdly: In brush ground it is to be cut 20 ft. wide and grubbed up 12 ft. wide. Any small bridges that may be found requisite to be made must be 12 ft. wide. I conceive this to be a sufficient width for the proposed road at present; but where it can with ease and convenience be done, I should prefer the road to be made 16 ft. wide. Fourthly: You will use your own discretion in establishing one or two more depôts for provisions, according as you may find them necessary, after you have once crossed the Blue Mountains and descended into the plain country, taking care to establish such depôts, however, in such places as affords plenty of good, wholesome water for man and beast. Whatever extra expense you may incur in constructing these depôts will be paid from the Colonial Police Fund, and also the amount of such slops, stores, or other articles as you may find it necessary to supply the working party with for their use and comfort during the time they are employed on this service. 5. I have now only to add that I shall at all times be happy to hear from you during the progress of the service you have thus been so good as to offer to see executed; and I shall most readily comply with any demands for provisions, stores, or tools you may have occasion to make during the continuance of it: having an entire confidence in your discretion and prudence, and being convinced that you will not make any demands that are not essentially requisite for promoting the present undertaking. 6. As it might prove of very great inconvenience, expense, and trouble to you personally, and greatly interrupt and disturb the working party, if the people, from motives of curiosity, were permitted to visit you or your party during the time you and they are employed on the present service, I have deemed it advisable to issue a Government and general order prohibiting such idlers from visiting you, or crossing the Nepean at Emu Plains, without a pass signed by me. I enclose you herewith some few printed copies of this order, which I request you will have posted up at proper conspicuous places, and give the necessary order to your guard and to your constable to see it strictly enforced. I remain with regard, Sir, Your most obedient and humble servant, (Sgd.) L. MACQUARIE, Governor-in-Chief of N.S.W. To WILLIAM Cox, Esq. * * *That letter was dated July 14th. Before the letter had been officially delivered, Mr. William Cox had selected his men—thirty in number—and, with a guard of eight soldiers, had crossed the Nepean and started work. Only those who have crossed the Blue Mountains with their eyes open can estimate the magnificent courage of the man who entered on such a Herculean labour with what we would consider such a totally insufficient staff. It is incredible to us that such a small party could have done such a mighty work; but this, more clearly than any argument, proves what mighty men dwelt in the land in those days.
"Government House, Sydney, "June 10, 1815. "The Governor desires to communicate, for the information of the public, the result of his late tour over the Western or Blue Mountains, undertaken for the purpose of being enabled personally to appreciate the importance of the tract of country lying westward of them, which had been explored in the latter end of the year 1813 and beginning of 1814 by Mr. George William Evans, Deputy Surveyor of Lands. "To those who know how very limited a tract of country has been hitherto occupied by the colonists of New South Wales, extending along the eastern coast to the north and south of Port Jackson only 80 miles, and westward about 40 miles to the foot of that chain of mountains in the interior which forms its western boundary, it must be a subject of astonishment and regret that amongst so large a population no one appeared within the first 25 years of the establishment of this settlement possessed of sufficient energy of mind to induce him fully to explore a passage over these mountains. But when it is considered that for the greater part of that time even this circumscribed portion of country afforded sufficient produce for the wants of the people, whilst on the other hand the whole surface of the country beyond these limits was a thick and in many places, nearly an impenetrable forest, the surprise at the want of effort to surmount such difficulties must abate very considerably. "The records of the colony only afford two instances of any bold attempt having been made to discover the country to the westward of the Blue Mountains. The first was by Mr. Bass, and the other by Mr. Caley, and both ended in disappointment—a circumstance which will not be much wondered at by those who have lately crossed those mountains. [Governor Macquarie overlooks M. Barrilier's attempt.] "To Gregory Blaxland and William Wentworth, Esquires, and Lieutenant Lawson, of the Royal Veteran Company, the merit is due of having effected the first passage over the most rugged and difficult part of the Blue Mountains. The Governor, being strongly impressed with the importance of the object, had, early after his arrival in this colony, formed the resolution of encouraging the attempt to find a passage to the Western country, and willingly availed himself of the facilities which the discoveries of these three gentlemen afforded him. Accordingly, on the 20th of November, 1813, he entrusted the accomplishment of this object to Mr. G. W. Evans, Deputy Surveyor of Lands, the result of whose journey was laid before the public. The favourable account given by Mr. Evans of the country he had explored induced the Governor to cause a road to be constructed for the passage and conveyance of cattle and provisions to the interior; and men of good character, from amongst a number of convicts who had volunteered their services, were selected to perform this arduous task, on condition of being fed and clothed during the continuance of their labour, and being granted emancipation as their final reward on the completion of the work. The direction and superintendence of this great work was entrusted to William Cox, Esq., the chief magistrate at Windsor; and, to the astonishment of everyone who knows what was to be encountered, and sees what has been done, he effected its completion in six months from the time of its commencement, happily without the loss of a man or any serious accident. The Governor is at a loss to appreciate fully the services rendered by Mr. Cox to this colony in the execution of this arduous work, which promises to be of the greatest public utility, by opening a new source of wealth to the industrious and enterprising. When it is considered that Mr. Cox voluntarily relinquished the comforts of his own house and the society of his numerous family, and exposed himself to much personal fatigue, with only such temporary covering as a bark hut could afford from the inclemency of the weather, it is difficult to express the sentiments of approbation to which such privations and services are entitled. Mr. Cox having reported the road as completed on the 21st January last, the Governor, accompanied by Mrs. Macquarie and that gentleman, commenced his tour on the 25th of April over the Blue Mountains, and was joined by Sir John Jamieson at the Nepean, who accompanied him during the entire tour. The following gentlemen composed the Governor's suite:—Mr. Campbell, secretary; Captain Antill, major of brigade; Lieutenant Watts, aide-de-camp; Mr. Redfern, assistant surgeon; Mr. Oxley, Surveyor-General; Mr. Mehan, Deputy Surveyor-General; Mr. Lewin, painter and naturalist; and Mr. G. W. Evans, Deputy Surveyor of Lands, who had been sent forward for the purpose of making further discoveries, and re-joined the party on the day of arrival at Bathurst Plains. The commencement of the ascent from Emu Plains to the first depôt, and thence to a resting-place, now called Springwood, distant 12 miles from Emu ford, was through a very handsome open forest of lofty trees, and much more practicable and easy than was expected. The facility of the ascent for this distance excited surprise, and is certainly not well calculated to give the traveller a just idea of the difficulties he has afterwards to encounter. For a further distance of four miles a sudden change is perceived in the appearance of the timber and the quality of the soil, the former becoming stunted, and the latter barren and rocky. At this place the fatigues of the journey may be said to commence. Here the country became altogether mountainous and extremely rugged. Near to the 18-mile mark (it is to be observed that the measure commences from Emu ford) a pile of stones attracted attention; it is close to the line of road on the top of a rugged and abrupt ascent, and is supposed to have been placed by Mr. Caley as the extreme limit of his tour. Hence the Governor gave that part of the mountain the name of Caley's Repulse. To have penetrated so far was at that time an effort of no small difficulty. From henceforward to the 26th mile is a succession of steep and rugged hills, some of which are so abrupt as to deny a passage altogether; but at this place a considerable extensive plain is arrived at, which constitutes the summit of the Western mountains and from thence a most extensive and beautiful prospect presents itself on all sides to the eye. The town of Windsor, the River Hawkesbury, Prospect Hill, and other objects within that part of the colony now inhabited, of equal interest, are distinctly seen from hence. The majestic grandeur of the situation, combined with the various objects to be seen from this place, induced the Governor to give it the appellation of the King's Table Land. On the south-west side of the King's Table Land the mountain terminates in abrupt precipices of immense depth, at the bottom of which is seen a glen, as romantically beautiful as can be imagined, bounded on the further side by mountains of great magnitude, terminating equally abruptly as the others, and the whole thickly covered with timber. The length of this picturesque and remarkable tract of country is about 24 miles, to which the Governor gave the name of The Prince Regent's Glen. Proceeding hence to the 33rd mile, on the top of a hill, an opening presents itself on the south-west side of The Prince Regent's Glen, from whence a view is obtained particularly beautiful and grand—mountains rising beyond mountains, with stupendous masses of rock in the foreground, here strike the eye with admiration and astonishment. The circular form in which the whole is so wonderfully disposed induced the Governor to give the name of Pitt's Amphitheatre (in honour of the late Right Honourable William Pitt) to this offset or branch from The Prince Regent's Glen. The road continues from hence, for the space of 17 miles, on the ridge of the mountain which forms one side of The Prince Regent's Glen, and then it suddenly terminates in nearly a perpendicular precipice of 676 ft. high, as ascertained by measurement. The road constructed by Mr. Cox down this rugged and tremendous descent, through all its windings, is no less than three-quarters of a mile in length, and has been executed with skill and stability, and reflects much credit on him. The labour here undergone, and the difficulties surmounted, can only be appreciated by those who view this scene. In order to perpetuate the memory of Mr. Cox's services, the Governor deemed it a tribute justly due to him to give his name to this grand and extraordinary pass; and he accordingly called it Cox's Pass. Having descended into the valley at the bottom of this pass, the retrospective view of the overhanging mountains is magnificently grand. Although the present pass is the only practicable point yet discovered for descending by, yet the mountain is much higher than those on either side of it, from whence it is distinguished at a considerable distance when approaching it from the interior, and in this point of view it has the appearance of a very high distinct hill, although it is in fact only the abrupt termination of a ridge. The Governor gave the name of Mount York to this termination of the ridge, in honour of his Royal Highness the Duke of York. "On descending Cox's Pass the Governor was much gratified by the appearance of good pasture land and soil fit for cultivation, which was the first he had met with since the commencement of his tour. The valley at the base of Mount York he called The Vale of Clwyd, in consequence of the strong resemblance it bore to the vale of that name in North Wales. The grass in this vale is of good quality, and very abundant, and a rivulet of fine water runs along it from the eastward, which unites itself at the western extremity of the vale with another rivulet containing still more water. The junction of these two streams forms a very handsome river, now called by the Governor Cox's River, which takes its course, as has been ascertained, through The Prince Regent's Glen, and empties itself into the River Nepean, near Mulgoa; and it has been conjectured, from the nature of the country through which it passes, that it must be one of the principal causes of the floods which have occasionally been felt on the low banks of the River Hawkesbury, into which the Nepean discharges itself. The Vale of Clwyd, from the base of Mount York, extends six miles in a westerly direction, and has its termination at Cox's River. Westward of this river the country again becomes hilly, but generally open forest land, and very good pasturage. Three miles to the westward of The Vale of Clwyd, Messrs. Blaxland, Wentworth, and Lawson had formerly terminated their excursion, and when the various difficulties are considered which they had to contend with, especially until they had effected the descent of Mount York, to which place they were obliged to pass through thick brushwood, where they were under the necessity of cutting a passage for their baggage horses, the severity of which labour had seriously affected their healths, their patient endurance of such fatigue cannot fail to excite much surprise and admiration. In commemoration of their merits, three beautiful high hills, joining each other, at the end of their tour at this place have received their names in the following order, viz., Mount Blaxland, Wentworth's Sugar Loaf, and Lawson's Sugar Loaf. A range of very lofty hills and narrow valleys alternately form the tract of country from Cox's River, for a distance of 16 miles, until the Fish River is arrived at; and the stage between these rivers is consequently very severe and oppressive on the cattle. To this range the Governor gave the name of Clarence Hilly Range. "Proceeding from the Fish River, and at a short distance from it, a very singular and beautiful mountain attracts the attention, its summit being crowned with a large and very extraordinary-looking rock, nearly circular in form, which gives to the whole very much the appearance of a hill fort, such as are frequent in India. To this lofty hill Mr. Evans, who was the first European discoverer, gave the name Mount Evans. Passing on from hence, the country continues hilly, but affords good pasturage, gradually improving to Sidmouth Valley, which is distant from the pass of the Fish River eight miles. The land here is level, and the first met with, unencumbered with timber. It is not of very considerable extent, but abounds with a great variety of herbs and plants, such as would probably interest and gratify the scientific colonist. This beautiful little valley runs north-west and south-east, between hills of easy ascent thinly covered with timber. Leaving Sidmouth Valley, the country becomes again hilly, and in other respects resembles very much the country to the eastward of the valley for some miles. Having reached Campbell's River, distant 13 miles from Sidmouth Valley, the Governor was highly gratified by the appearance of the country, which there began to exhibit open and extensive views of gently rising grounds and fertile plains. Judging from the height of the banks and its general width, the Campbell River must be in some parts of very considerable magnitude, but the extraordinary drought which has apparently prevailed on the Western side of the mountains, equally as throughout this colony for the last three years, has reduced this river so much that it may more properly be called a chain of ponds than a running stream at the present time.* [* This seems very extraordinary after the exceedingly wet summer experienced by Mr. Cox.] "In the reaches or pools of the Campbell River the very curious animal called the ornithorhynchus paradoxus, or water-platypus mole, is seen in great numbers. The soil is rich, and the grass is consequently luxuriant. Two miles to the southward of the line of road which crosses Campbell River there is a very rich tract of low lands which has been named Mitchell Plains. Flax was found growing here in considerable quantities. The Fish River, which forms a junction with the Campbell River a few miles to the northward of the road and bridge over the latter, has also two very fertile plains on its banks, the one called O'Connell Plains and the other Macquarie Plains, both of considerable extent, and very capable of yielding all the necessaries of life. "At the distance of seven miles from the bridge over the Campbell River, Bathurst Plains open to the view, presenting a rich tract of champaign country of 11 miles in length, bounded on both sides by gently rising and very beautiful hills, thinly wooded. The Macquarie River, which is constituted by the junction of the Fish and Campbell rivers, takes a winding course through the plains, which can be easily traced from the high lands adjoining by the particular verdure of the trees on its banks, which are likewise the only trees throughout the extent of the plains. The level and clean surface of these plains gives them at first view the appearance of lands under cultivation. It is impossible to behold this grand scene without a feeling of admiration and surprise, whilst the silence and solitude which reign in a space of such extent and beauty as seems designed by Nature for the occupancy and comfort of man create a degree of melancholy in the mind which may be more easily imagined than described. "The Governor and suite arrived at these plains on Thursday, the 4th of May, and encamped on the southern or left bank of the Macquarie River, the situation being selected in consequence of its commanding a beautiful and extensive prospect for many miles in every direction around it. At this place the Governor remained a week, which time he occupied in making excursions in different directions through the adjoining country on both sides of the river. "On Sunday, the 7th May, the Governor fixed on a site suitable for the erection of a town at some future period, to which he gave the name of Bathurst, in honour of the present Secretary of State for the Colonies. The situation of Bathurst is elevated sufficiently beyond the reach of any floods which may occur, and is at the same time so near to the river on its south bank as to derive all the advantages of its clear and beautiful stream. The mechanics and settlers, of whatever description, who may be hereafter permitted to form permanent residences to themselves at this place, will have the highly important advantages of a rich and fertile soil, with a beautiful river flowing through it for all the uses of man. The Governor must, however, add that the hopes which were at first so sanguinely entertained of this river becoming navigable to the Western sea have ended in disappointment. "During the week that the Governor remained at Bathurst, he made daily excursions in various directions. One of these extended 22 miles in a south-west direction, and on that occasion, as well as on all others, he found the country composed chiefly of valleys and plains, separated occasionally by ranges of low hills, the soil throughout being generally fertile, and well circumstanced for the purpose of agriculture and grazing. "The Governor here feels much pleasure in being enabled to communicate to the public that the favourable reports which he had received of the country to the west of the Blue Mountains have not been by any means exaggerated. The difficulties which present themselves in the journey from hence are certainly great and inevitable; but those persons who may be inclined to become permanent settlers there will probably content themselves with visiting this part of the country but rarely, and, of course, will have them seldom to encounter. Plenty of water and a sufficiency of grass are to be found in the mountains for the support of such cattle as may be sent over them, and the tracts of fertile soil and rich pasturage which the new country affords are fully extensive enough for any increase of population and stock which can possibly take place for many years. Within a distance of 10 miles from the site of Bathurst there is not less than 50,000 acres of land clear of timber, and fully one-half of that may be considered excellent soil, well calculated for cultivation. It is a matter of regret that in proportion as the soil improves, the timber degenerates; and it is to be remarked that everywhere to the westward of the mountains it is much inferior, both in size and quality, to that within the present colony. There is, however, a sufficiency of timber of tolerable quality within the district around Bathurst for the purposes of house-building and husbandry. The Governor has here to lament that neither coals nor limestone have yet been discovered in the Western country, articles in themselves of so much importance that the want of them must be severely felt whenever that country shall be settled. "The road constructed by Mr. Cox and the party under him commences at Emu ford, on the left bank of the River Nepean, and is thence carried 101½ miles to the flagstaff at Bathurst. This road has been carefully measured, and each mile regularly marked on the trees growing on the left side of the road proceeding towards Bathurst. The Governor in his tour made the following stages, in which he was principally regulated by the consideration of having good pasturage for the cattle and plenty of water:— "1st stage, from Emu Ford to Springwood........12 miles 2nd " " Jamieson's Valley..16 『 3rd 』 " Blackheath ........13 『 4th 』 " Cox's River .......15 『 5th 』 " Fish River ........16 『 6th 』 " Sidmouth Valley ....8 『 7th 』 " Campbell River ....11 『 8th 』 " Bathurst...........10½ " Total 101½ " At all of which places the traveller may assure himself of good grass and water in abundance. On Thursday, the 11th May, the Governor and suite set out from Bathurst on their return, and arrived at Sydney on Friday, the 19th ultimo. The Governor cannot conclude this account of his tour without offering his best acknowledgments to William Cox, Esq., for the important service he has rendered to the colony in so short a period of time by opening a passage to the newly-discovered country, and at the same time assuring him that he shall have great pleasure in recommending his meritorious services on this occasion to the favourable consideration of his Majesty's Ministers. "By command of his Excellency the Governor, "JOHN THOMAS CAMPBELL, "Secretary."