 |
Project Gutenberg
Australia a treasure-trove of literature treasure found hidden with no evidence of ownership |
BROWSE the site for other works by this author (and our other authors) or get HELP Reading, Downloading and Converting files) or SEARCH the entire site with Google Site Search |
Title: Official Papers Relating to the Settlement at Swan River, West Australia. December, 1826—January, 1830. Authors: Edited by Frederick Watson. * A Project Gutenberg of Australia eBook * eBook No.: 1402751h.html Language: English Date first posted: October 2014. Date most recently updated: October 2014. Produced by: Ned Overton. Project Gutenberg Australia eBooks are created from printed editions which are in the public domain in Australia, unless a copyright notice is included. We do NOT keep any eBooks in compliance with a particular paper edition. Copyright laws are changing all over the world. Be sure to check the copyright laws for your country before downloading or redistributing this file. This eBook is made available at no cost and with almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg Australia Licence which may be viewed online.GO TO Project Gutenberg Australia HOME PAGE
|
1. Proposals by Captain Stirling for a Settlement at Swan River. 14th Dec., 1826. 2. Captain Stirling to Governor Darling. 18th April, 1827. 2.1 [Enclosure No. 1.]: Narrative of Operations. [Stirling] 2.2 [Enclosure No. 2.]: Observations on the soil, etc., etc., of the Banks of Swan River. [Fraser] 3. Application by Captain James Stirling for Command of the proposed Settlement at Swan River. 4. Under Secretary Stanley to Captain Stirling. 29th November, 1827. 5. Right Hon. W. Huskisson to Governor Darling. 28th January, 1828. 6. Captain Stirling to Under Secretary Hay. 30 July, 1828. 7. Captain Stirling and Major Moody to Under Secretary Hay. 21st August, 1828. 8. Commander Gardiner to Sir George Murray. 31 October, 1828. 9. Mr. J. Barrow to Under Secretary Twiss. 7 November, 1828. 10. Mr. J. Barrow To Under Secretary Twiss. 13 November, 1828. 11. Memorial from Mr. Thomas Peel, Sir Francis Vincent and others. 14th November, 1828. 12. Mr. Thomas Peel to Under Secretary Twiss. 30 November, 1828. 13. Mr. Thomas Peel to Under Secretary Twiss. 2 December, 1828. 14. Lord Hill to Sir George Murray. 3 December, 1828. 15. Under Secretary Hay to Mr. T. Peel, Sir F. Vincent, Mr. T. P. Macqueen and Mr. E. W. H. Schenley. 6th December, 1828. 15.1 [Enclosure.] Conditions for Land Grants at Swan River. 16. Mr. J. Stewart to Under Secretary Hay. 11 December, 1828. 17. Mr. L. Beauvais to Under Secretary Twiss. 17 December, 1828. 18. Sir F. Vincent and Messrs. Peel and Schenley to Under Secretary Hay. 18 December, 1828. 18.1 Memorandum with reference to the Subject of this Letter by Mr Hay. 23 December, 1828. 19. Mr. J. Lachlan to Captain Stirling. 23 December, 1828. 20. Lord Fitzroy Somerset to Under Secretary Twiss. 24 December, 1828. 21. Captain Stirling to Under Secretary Hay. 26 December, 1828. 22. Captain Stirling to Under Secretary Hay. 28 December [1828]. 23. Navy Commissioners to Under Secretary Hay. 29 December, 1828. 24. Sir George Murray to Captain Stirling. (Despatch No. 1.) 30 December, 1828. [Instructions to Stirling.] 24.1 [Enclosure.] Instructions to Governor Darling. [Excerpts.] 25. Captain Stirling to Under Secretary Hay. 31 December, 1828. 26. Under Secretary Hay to Captain Stirling. 1 January, 1829. 27. Sir George Murray to Governor Darling. 12 January, 1829. 28. Remarks on Swan River by Major Lockyer. [1829.] 29. Regulations for the guidance of those who may propose to embark, as Settlers, for the new Settlement on the Western Coast of New Holland. 18 January, 1829. 30. Under Secretary Twiss to Sir F. Vincent and Messrs. Peel and Schenley. 21 January, 1829. 31. Sir George Murray To Captain Stirling. 22 January, 1829. 31.1 [Enclosure.] See Item 29. 32. Sir Francis Vincent To Under Secretary Twiss. 23 January, 1829. 33. Mr. Thomas Peel To Under Secretary Twiss. 28 January, 1829. 33.1 [Enclosure.] Mr. E. W. H. Schenley to Mr. T. Peel. 23 January, 1829. 34. Under Secretary Twiss to Mr. T. Peel. 28th. January, 1829. 34.1 [Enclosure.—Map 4.] 35. Under Secretary Twiss to Mr. T. Peel. 29 January, 1829. 36. Commodore Schomberg to Secretary Croker. 20 March, 1829. 36.1 [Enclosure.] Orders to W. H. Freemantle, Captain of H.M. Ship Challenger. 37. Governor Darling to Sir George Murray. 14 May, 1829. 38. Sir George Murray to Governor Darling. 11 August, 1830 39. Lieutenant-Governor Stirling to Sir George Murray. 20 January, 1830. 39.1 [Enclosure 1a]: Abstract from General Muster Book. 39.2 [Enclosure 1b]: Supplementary list of Persons. 39.3 [Enclosure 2a]. List of Persons who have claimed Land.
39.4 [Enclosure
2b]. Supplementary List of Persons having Property. Commentary Notes on the Official Papers. |
| To the | Cape of Good Hope | Six weeks, | back a Month |
| " | Mauritius | Three weeks, | back a Month |
| " | Madras | Three weeks, | back a Month |
| " | Java and the Islands adjacent Ten days, back Fourteen Days | ||
| " | Van Diemen's Land | Seven days, | back Two Months |
Map 1. A Chart of Part of the West Coast
of New Holland. March 1827.
[Note: East is up the page. Source: SROWA Map
Series 234, Item 297.]
[Click on the map to enlarge it.]
Map 2. Plan of the Louis-Napoleon Islands
and the River of Swans by Messrs. L. Freycinet and Heirisson,
1801 and 1803.
[Note: East is up the page.]
[Click on the map to enlarge it.]
The route obviously pointed out to us was the course of Swan.
River. On the Morning of the 8th, every necessary being embarked
in the Cutter and Gig, we left the Ship and proceeded with a fair
wind towards the Main. The two Boats contained in all Eighteen
Persons, one part of which consisted of Lieutenant: Belches, Mr.
Surgeon Clause, Mr. Fraser, Mr. Garling, Mr. Heathcote and
myself; the other of Eight Seamen and four Marines, the latter
were provided abundantly with subsistance, Two Suits of Cloaths,
one whereof was composed of Blanket Stuff, a Hammock for each, a
tent for the whole, and Arms. sufficient to repel any attack that
might befall us.
At Noon we crossed the Bar and reached the entrance. It is
flanked by two natural Piers or Heads, similar in the material of
which they are composed but dissimilar in Size. The Southern or
largest is 70 or 80 feet high and is connected with the Main Land
by a Sandy isthmus bearing a Bay on each side. The Heads are
composed of a Limestone Rock, which in those parts, that are
subject to the action of the surge, is worn into Caverns, while
in other places the action of the Sun and atmosphere has in part
decomposed it, exhibiting various Specimens of organic remains,
both of marine and of vegetable origin.
I must protest here against the term "River" as applied to the
Estuary in which we were now entering. It is a misnomer which
leads to confusion of Ideas; and I shall therefore designate the
various ramifications of the Sea within the two heads just
mentioned by the general name Melville Water, limiting the use of
the name Swan River to that Stream, which joining the Sea at the
Islands below Fraser's Point concludes its career as a River. For
the extent and direction of the various Arms of Melville Water, I
refer to the Chart. I shall only state that the Shores near the
Heads, altho' not deficient in good Soil, present not a pleasant
sort of Vegetation to the Eye; but, as the Stream is ascended,
the banks become extremely beautiful and picturesque. Their
beauty is enhanced by the lofty trees, which occasionally adorn
them, and by the bright green pendulous foliage with which the
Shrubs are covered.
From the Heads to Point Belches, we proceeded prosperously
before a favoring breeze, but we were there to encounter
difficulties. The Boats took the Ground, and we sought in vain by
Walking from Shore to Shore to find a Channel. The only
alternative left was to drag the Boats over the Bank which was
practised for a distance of two Miles, until night overtook us
when the increasing tenacity of the mud obliged us to desist. It
was too late then to find a way to firm dry ground, so we were
forced to pass the night in the Boats, which was done without
much inconvenience.
At Daylight of the 9th, the Gig was carried over the flats
above the Islands, and breakfast prepared for the Party, who,
from 5 O'Clock in the Morning till dark, were employed in fruit
less exertions to advance the Gutter. At length despairing of
getting her forward, I had her carried about half a Mile down
with the intention of sending her back; but, having found a bank
of sand just below her position, which altho' dry afforded firm
footing, I resolved upon attempting it the following Morning. As
Night set in, the whole Party was collected and the Men being
dressed out in their dry Blanket Suits sat down at 7 o'Clock to a
comfortable Dinner after a day's work, which, for unremitting
exertions above their middles in Mud and Water, I never saw
exceeded.
On the Morning of the 10th, we found the Sand bank more
favorable to our wishes than the mud had been. At Noon, I had the
satisfaction to see the Cutter once more afloat above the Shoals,
and immediately after everything re-embarked for the prosecution
of our Course. These obstructions had detained us two days, at or
near [F]razer's Point; our Water during such great exertions had
suffered many inroads, and it became necessary either to find a
Supply or return to the Ship. Happily Mr. Frazer discovered a
Fresh Water Lagoon, and I hit upon a Spring of delicious Water
sufficient to supply all our wants.
The first day of our sojourn here was marked by a visit of
three Armed Natives, who, seeing Mr. Frazer alone taking care of
the Gig at about One hundred Yards from the Shore, came down and
motioned him to be gone. It was in vain that he proffered all his
Stock of amicable Signals; they seemed angry at our invasion of
their Territory, and by their violent gesture gave him reason to
rejoice at the Space of water, which divided them from the Boat;
supposing however that he was beyond reach, they eventually
retired, and these were the only Natives we seen in that
Neighbourhood, altho' many traces existed of its being much
frequented. If some of those traces or footsteps had been taken
as the standard of size, a mistake sometimes made in Savage
Countries, Gigantic indeed must have appeared the authors of
those marks.
The Country at Frazer's Point differs in character from that
which is nearer the Sea; above it, Sandy beaches and precipitous
Limestone Cliffs are succeeded by flat rushy Shores, or rising
banks of grass, and Woodland, but the Soil of the Hills is still
sandy and the lowlands bear marks of Fresh Water inundations. The
Water also at this point assumed the appearance of a River, and
at four O'clock on the 10th we embarked upon it for the further
prosecution of our Voyage. Our progress on that Evening was not
great, nor could it be so, after a hard day's work; at dark we
pulled in for a landing-place on the left shore, and in a few
Minutes a blazing fire, with roasting Swans before it, shed
cheerfulness on our resting place; our dominion here however was
not undisputed for all places I have ever visited I think it
contained the greatest number of Musquitoes. This phenomenon was
easily accounted for when daylight shewed us that we had taken up
our Quarters on a narrow ridge between the River and a Swamp.
The Regulations established for our movements were to
breakfast at 4, start at 5, and row or sail till 11, to rest from
that time till 3, and then to proceed till 6 in the Evening; at
day light accordingly on the 11th, we were Sailing upwards
through a bieutiful reach of the River. On the left lay a level
Country 15 or 20 feet above the water, covered with bronze grass
and studded by a few green trees; On the right, higher banks and
greater bieuty of scenery but the Soil of inferior quality. The
Plants, which inhabit sandy districts, were become rare, while
those, which flourish in loamy Soils, were frequently appearing.
Swans and Ducks, which at Frazer's Point were numerous, now
became still more so, and of the first kind we killed with ease
as many as we wanted. Fish we saw in abundance, but had no time
to spare for their Capture; at 7 O'Clock, we entered a very long
reach; the last Sandy Hills we were to see lay on our left; the
distant blue Mountains were before us; and the smoke from many
fires was rising on different Points of view; at this place the
river is not above 100 Yards wide, and the Channels not more than
7 or 8 feet deep; the Water is still brackish but no longer Salt.
At the Head of this long reach, we found it drinkable, and
running downward at the rate of a Mile an hour over a gravally
bottom; here peeping at us from behind trees we discovered two
Boys, presently others appeared and at last we saw a whole Tribe
of about thirty Natives.
The rule I had laid down for my guidance in all communications
with these People was neither to seek nor avoid an interview. I
adopted this plan as the one best calculated to prevent
hostilities, for to approach a savage or to retire before him I
felt persuaded would both produce the same result, in the one
case leading him from fear to strike the first blow, and in the
other tempting him to make conquest of Enemies, who by retreating
exhibit symptoms of weakness and fear; it was with this view that
I resolved in the present case to let our new acquaintances seek
or shun us as they best pleased. At first they displayed great
reserve; but, as we made no attempt to approach them, the
Warriors followed us along the bank, the Women and Children
retiring out of sight. The Woods now resounded with their Shouts,
to which replied our Bugle with equal loudness and with more than
equal melody. At this point appearances wore a threatening
aspect, for the Natives seemed much enraged, and I judged, from
their violent gestures and great noise they made, that we should
shortly have a shower of spears. The River was here only 60 Yards
across, and, as they had the advantage of a bank 20 feet high,
our situation put us much within reach of annoyance; we however
pursued our course until the bank became nearly level with the
Water, by which time they had assumed more confidence and began
to mimic our various expressions of "How do you do"; and at last
we held up a Swan, which seemed to amuse them, and, having cast
it to them, they testified the greatest delight at the present;
this led to an interview which proceeded upon amicable terms; we
gave them various articles of Dress, a Corporal's Jacket and
three Swans, and received in return all their Spears and Womeras;
at length we were forced to tear ourselves away, and they retired
astonished at their acquisitions, intimating that they would
willingly accompany the Boats, but that a Creek a short distance
further up prevented their doing so.
From our Parting with these People till Dinner time, we
continued to penetrate through a rich and romantic Country. At
Noon we halted and, while the necessary preparations were making
for our repast, Parties Sallied forth in various directions to
explore the neighbourhood; many traces of Natives and Kangaroos
were seen, and indeed the latter animal had been observed in the
course of the day's progress; but we were not sufficiently
acquainted with that species of hunting to make prize of any of
them; here were also traces of the Cassowary, and we found
abundance of Ducks, Cocketoos, Swans, Redbill, Pigeon and Quail.
The Country adjacent to this Spot is generally of an undulating
character; occasionally sections of the higher grounds are seen
on the Banks of the River, and by presenting Steep red, brown and
yellow Cliffs, of one or two hundred feet high, add much to the
variety of the Landscape. These Hills in general have an Iron
Stone grit for their base, and good red loam for their surface.
The holms or lower grounds, which probably occupy on an average
four fifths of the surface of the Country, are composed of a deep
dark coloured loam devoid of clay or sand, and are usually
clothed with grass. The Stringy Bark and Apple Tree of New South
Wales grow to an enormous size on the mounts, some of the latter
sort being seen 25 feet in circumference.
On the Flats the Blue Gum Tree flourishes, but in a ratio of
not more than 10 to an Acre, and they are generally unaccompanied
by any other Tree or Shrub except a long leaved and beautiful
Species of Acacia. At 2 O'Clock, we resumed our course, and, as
the River had decreased in width to about 40 Yards, some of the
Party advanced along the banks for the various purposes of
preventing a Surprize, Shooting Game, and seeing the Country; its
open forest-like character afforded no impediment to their march,
indeed generally the lowlands resemble fields of grain, for the
high grass had been turned yellow by the Sun; such with little
variation was the Country we passed through for 15 Miles, until
at 6 O'Clock we established our Quarters for the Night on one of
those convenient and pleasant looking Flats.
This I thought was the first commodious sleeping-place we had
encountered; we were now becoming accustomed to the business of
rendering ourselves comfortable in the Forest; we had delicious
Weather and abundance of every thing, including cheerfulness.
From the long reach to this Spot, we found not less than Eight
feet Water in the Chanel of the River; the Water was perfectly
good and pleasant, but the tide still seemed to have an
influence, for the height of the River was a foot less in the
morning than at night.
At day light of the 13th, we were as usual in motion and
observed little variation in the appearance of the Land as we
ascended, except that the Hills on the Banks were higher and more
frequent, and the Soil upon them of a coarser description. They
are here composed of a red Sand Stone, red clay, and an ochry
loam, varying in colour between red, brown, blue, and yellow; the
Soil on the lowlands continued as good as ever. About an hour
after starting, we had the misfortune to Staye the Cutter on a
Sunken Tree; lead and fearnought however speedily effected a
cure, and we continued to pursue our course amid increasing
difficulties from similar obstructions and from the decreasing
width of the Stream. The hills around us were high, and we
ascended them with ease; but it was in vain that we sought a view
of the Country; we were the more disappointed because its
character was evidently changing; at length after several halts
we reached, about 11 o'clock, a Spot where the River takes an
Eastern direction just above a considerable Creek on the left
hand; we there found unsurmountable obstructions to our further
progress, in fact we had reached the termination; for beyond this
there was the Bed of a torrent, but no longer a River; nor even a
continuation of Water, except in a succession of distant parts.
Here then on a high bank we pitched our Tent; the richness of the
Soil, the bright foliage of the Shrubs, the majesty of the
surrounding Trees, the abrupt and red coloured banks of the River
occasionally seen, and the view of the blue summits of the
Mountains, from which we were not far distant, made the scenery
around this Spot as bieutiful as anything of the kind I had ever
witnessed.
The hot Season of the day was fully occupied in the various
operations of encamping, exploring and observing the latitude.
When it became cool, I set off with a Party for the hills; but
the distance was greater than we supposed, and the Sun was
setting when we reached the summit. The height of the position we
attained was probably 1,200 feet above the Plain; the Country to
the Eastward was intercepted from our view by the Mountains in
that direction, and the Sea was also rendered invisible either by
distance or the ridge of Hills which skirts it; but, although our
expectations were disappointed as to the two objects just
mentioned, they were more than gratified by the view, which we
contemplated beneath us. As far as the eye could carry Northward,
Southward, and Westward lay extended an immense plain covered in
general with Forest and varied by occasional eminences and
glimpses of the River winding through it.
It was already dark when we began to descend; we had Seven
Miles to go through the Forest, but we were not unaccustomed to
Steer by night, and after three hours smart walking our Signal
Musket Shot was replied to by one in the neighbourhood of the
Camp. Mr. Frazer had very kindly and considerately sent out
Scouts, and we reached our Quarters about Nine O'clock.
On the following Morning, the 14th, Mr. Frazer with a Party
set out for the Hills to the Eastward, Messrs. Belches and
Heathcote to those in a Northern direction, and Mr. Clause and
myself explored the Country to the Westward of the Camp. The
discoveries of the first party were many curious and interesting
Botanical specimens and a lump of Granite from the ridge, they
also saw an Emu but did not secure him; Mr. Belches found a
considerable Lake of Fresh Water to the Northward near the foot
of the Mountains; and the result of my expedition was the
discovery of a Fresh Water Lagoon and a bieutiful running brook
watering several hundred Acres of natural Meadow, covered even at
this Season of the Year with rich green herbaceous grass.
Neither of these Parties encountered any Natives, but we found
several deserted encampments where their ajaupa or huts still
remained; we had afterwards reason to believe that they frequent
the high grounds only during winter, and that at this time they
were still on the Coast engaged in Fishing.
The Evening was employed by us in making a Garden on the
Tongue of Land, which intervenes between the River and the Creek;
we found there, as indeed it was all around us, rich soil of
great depth; the ground had been cleared by fire a few weeks,
before and was ready to receive Seed; we planted various Sorts
and more particularly abundance of Potatoes and Peach Trees. On
the following Morning, the time I had fixed for our departure
arrived, and, I believe much to the sorrow of the Party
generally, we commenced our descent. The Gig was stove soon after
starting but speedily cobled up; we continued with the Stream and
wind to descend rapidly; at 11 we stopped to Dinner, and being
anxious to move forward resumed our Journey at 2. Mr. Belches
found in the neighbourhood of this spot Two Lakes, one of Salt,
the other, Fresh Water; at 6 we passed the fires of our first
Friends in the River, and a little after dark landed for the
Night at Point Garling, having accomplished a great day's work.
On the Morning of the 16th, we were at Point Frazer very early,
and understanding now the nature of the Shoals we had both the
Boats below them and reladen by Noon. We then proceeded to Point
Heathcote, which I had fixed upon for a resting place on our
route; there I had discovered from the Top of a high Hill that
the Branch, which the French named Entree Moreau and called it an
Arm of the Sea, extended for 7 or 8 Miles to the S.S.E. I
determined therefore to ascertain its nature, and I despatched
Mr. Belches in the Gig to explore it; this he accordingly did,
and on his return two days afterwards I learnt that, after
tracing it for 20 Miles, he found it to be a fresh Water river,
similar in every respect to the one we had just descended. It
appears to collect the Streams from the Mountains to the
Southward, and conveys them into Melville Water.
I Sailed in the Cutter from Point Heathcote in the evening and
reached the Ship about Midnight. On our course, we observed
several Natives on the banks fishing by torch light and had a
great deal of unintelligible conversation with them, and had
every reason to suppose that they were not maliciously
inclined.
On my return to the Ship, I found my Instructions had been
obeyed as to Soundings for a Channel to Beuache Island but
unsuccessfully. I therefore resolved to leave her for the
remainder of our stay here at her present Anchorage, and
immediately commenced the Survey of the surrounding Islands and
Banks.
As the history of these operations contains nothing
interesting but the result, I shall briefly say that, after four
days of exertion, we were enabled to consider the following
Services executed:—
The discovery of a Channel of not less than 5 fathoms from Sea
in to Cockburn Sound.
A Channel of 3¼ fathoms from the Ship's Anchorage into Gages
Roads.
The Satisfactory exploration of those Two Anchorages. A Survey
of the entrance to Melville Water.
An exploration of the Coasts and Bays of Beuache Island and
the Main opposite.
A considerable Garden at Woodman's Cove Beuache Island.
Another Garden at Point Heathcote.
The discovery of Fresh Water at both of those Places, and of a
Mineral Spring near Arthur's Heads.
The various duties effected on the 20th, we sent to Beuache
Island a Cow, Two Ewes in Lamb, and Three Goats, where on
abundance of grass awaited them, and a large Pool of Water, which
we had prepared for their use; on the 21st we unmoored, weighed
and crossed the Bank to the Southward into Gage's Roads; on the
22nd at Noon, having finished all that the time allowed me to
remain here would permit, we bore up with the Sea breeze and ran
along the Coast to the Northward at a distance varying from 1 to
2½ Miles in 7 fathoms Water. The Land immediately on the Shore
became more Sandy and sterile as we receded on this course from
Swan River, but the interior, whenever it could be seen over the
sand downs, presented a Woody and green aspect. At Sun Set we
were 35 Miles from Rottenest, and could see the Coast 20 Miles
further, and, as the bottom became Rocky and the Soundings
irregular, I here hauled off Shore and at that point terminated
my inspection of the West Coast to the Northward of Swan
River.
On the 23rd in the afternoon, the Land in the neighbourhood of
Cape Bouvard of the French was in sight; I had seen it from
Beuache Island and here I resumed the inspection of the Coast; we
stood in with a fresh Sea breeze and, when it became dark, being
within 5 Miles of the Shore, the weather fine, the Soundings
regular and the Water very Smooth, I anchored in 9 fathoms on a
Sandy bottom.
At day light the view of the Coast was very pleasing, a high
and regularly shaped conical mountain occupied the middle of the
picture and was the most distant Land visible. Between us and it,
there was a succession of descending ridges or rather a plain
inclining to the Sea Shore, covered with Timber; the sand downs,
which skirted the white Sand beach, were not bare nor devoid of
verdure and beauty. The Sun rising behind the mountain shed every
variety of colour over the scene before us; we were now under
Sail and making the best of our way to the Southward with the
declining breeze at 2 Miles from the Shore. At 2 O'Clock, we were
close in with the entrance of Port Leschenault, and at Sun Set
anchored 5 Miles to the Southward of it in 9 fathoms Water. The
regularity of the Soundings on this part of the Coast is truly
astonishing. At 30 Miles off, there is 30 fathoms Water, at 10
Miles 15, and at 2—6, and this gradation of depth seems to
prevail in every line of approach towards the Coast. As the
bottom is thus regulated with certainty and precision, so equally
appear the Hours at which the winds commence and resign their
reign, the Sea breeze setting in at 11 and the Land Wind coming
off at 8.
On the Morning of the 24th, we were coasting along the Shore
with a light breeze; as the Head of the Bay is approached, the
distant Hills seem to retire backward; there are no longer Sand
downs to be seen, but only a Sandy Beach. The Country seems
flatter, but not very different from that portion of the great
Plain immediately behind Swan. River, and of which it is a
continuation. At 8 O'Clock, we were near the River Vasse of the
French and saw some Natives on the Shore; here the depth forbids
a near approach to the Shore. At Nine we saw something like a
small opening into a Lagoon, and presently after 20 Natives on
the beach; they continued to follow our course along the Shore
and seemed eager not to be too late. At 11 the Water Shoaling, I
sent a Boat to proceed parralel with the Shore, keeping in 3
fathoms; and at Noon we had compleated the circuit of the Eastern
and Southern Shores of the Bay. Our attendants were here
reinforced by another Tribe—or detachment of the same. The
Women and Children retired into the Bush, and the Warriors kept
up with our Boat. There were many fine specimens of Military
tactics practised by them, all of which were visible to us from
the Ship; but, as their gestures and actions did not seem
hostile, the Boat continued her course not far from them; one at
last, who seemed the general, left his Spears behind him and,
advancing upon a projecting rock, stripped himself of his only
garment a kangaroo Skin to shew he had no concealed Arms; he
seemed so vehemently desirous of an interview that the Boat
backed in and gave him a knife and two or three little presents.
Shortly after we anchored and I sent Mr. Belches provided with
many little articles to open a communication with them; in this
he fully succeeded, and ultimately out of the 16 Natives brought
two on board; we entertained them with Meat and Drink and
Clothes, and they returned to their Tribe, astonished, delighted,
and in perfect amity with us. As it was now the time of the
Autumnal Equinox, we had reason to expect unsettled Weather. On
the following day it blew a gale of wind from the S.S.W. with
Thunder, Lightning and Rain, but we were sheltered from its force
by the Land.
The 10th and 11th of March were given to the exploration of
the Country at this place and the following results were
obtained.
We ascertained that, on the Western Shore of this Bay, there
is a ridge of Hills of a moderate elevation, whose base covers a
surface of 7 or 8 Miles in breadth from East to West, and of 50
or 60 Miles in length from North to South, terminated by our
neighbour Cape Naturalist on one hand, and on the other by Cape
Leuwin.
Landward to the East a Plain or undulating Country stretches
away until it meets the base of General Darling's range, which at
this point is distant 50 Miles probably from the Coast. This
plain is covered with large Timber, and displays the rich and
lovely verdure of a Country frequently Watered by Showers. The
Southern Shore of this Bay, and which bounds it on one side, is
low, and I may venture to say, Swamps and Lagoons would be found
behind the beach; the quantity of Metrasideros seen growing there
indicates Water; but unlike the Mangrove it shews that Water to
be fresh.
The Sea ridge occupied and interested us much; the Soil of its
Valleys was exceedingly rich and even; the high lands were
covered with a tolerable good sandy loam, but it was in its
Geological structure and its mineral productions that we found
the scene of its greatest attractions. As I shall examine it
closely as to these points in another part of this Report, I
shall not dilate upon them here.
The Western Shore of the Bay offers good Anchorage all along
its Coast, and, in the Bays which indent it, security from all
winds except those from N.N.W. and N.E. The ground is generally
tenacious, varying between Sand and Clay and having occasionally
towards the Shore lumps of Granite Rock. The latter may always be
seen and avoided in any depth less than 10 fathoms. Wood is here
abundant for the use of Ships, and whenever we sought we found
Water. The Northern part of this range indeed is flowing with
Streams, but some are Mineral, some saline, some chalybeate, and
many pure fresh and agreeable; of the latter sort Mr. Belches
found a source large enough to be called a River, gushing from
the side of the Solid Limestone Rock and rushing to the Sea half
a Mile distant with a considerable noise. At the same time,
although there is abundance of fresh water, I am not at liberty
to call it at present a convenient watering-place, although I do
not doubt that it may hereafter become so.
Our Friends the Natives were constantly in attendance whenever
we landed; they were harmless, lively, and extremely inquisitive
into the fact of our white complexions; it was not until after
repeated trials by rubbing and washing that they would be
persuaded that our white colour was not a deception; their
Physical character will be stated hereafter; their curiosity
seemed insatiable, and to this I must attribute the only instance
of Theft which fell within my knowledge. I had been among the
Hills and found them near the Boat when I returned; while
awaiting the rest of the Party, I stood at their fire which they
had kindled to warm themselves during the rain; to amuse them I
took out my Note Book and made a Sketch of a Man opposite, and
returned the Book into my Pocket. No London adept could have
removed it more adroitly from thence than the Man we called the
General did, and I should not have recovered it, had not my
Coxswain perceived it under his Cloak.
On the 25th, the weather having moderated and having now
extended my stay on this Coast to the very last day, which in
reference to my Orders I could, with propriety prolong it, we
weighed from our Anchorage, and passing round the Cape, directed
our course for Cape Leuwin; for several days we had sight of that
point, and on the 2nd April Anchored in King George's Sound; on
the day following, having been able to hear nothing of our
Cutter. I concluded that she had been unable to get to the
Westward, and had returned to Port Jackson; to that place
therefore we proceeded and re-entered it on the 15th April after
and absence of three Months.
Observations on the Territory.
The only part of the Western Coast of New Holland visited by
the "Success" is included within the four Southermost Degrees of
Latitude, and it is that portion only which I shall now attempt
to describe.
General Aspect.
From Cape Leuwin to Geographe Bay, the Coast line is formed by
a range of Hills of uniform and moderate elevation. Their base is
a fine grained granite Shooting up pinnacles into the
superincumbent strata. These appear in the usual order of
succession observed among Rocks of primitive formation. The
Granite is followed by Gneiss or a stratified rock nearly
resembling it; above the Gneiss are Schistose strata, displaying
great variety of colour, texture, and material; then follows Sand
Stone or Toadstone of varying thickness, and over these latter,
divided from them by an accurately drawn horizontal line, a bed
of compact limestone, sections of which were seen 200 feet in
depth; such was the order observed among the Cliffs Eastward from
Cape Naturalist.
The Strata of Schistose have a general inclination or dip of
about 20° and their Longitudinal line of bearing is from W.N.W.
to E.S.E. These are traversed by considerable veins of Quartz,
Mica and Felspar, some of which are highly Metalliferous; but I
do not consider myself competent to apply a Name to any of the
Metals they contain except to large Masses of Magnetic Iron Ore,
so pure that a Common loadstone would take up in a crude state
portions of it as large as a bean.
The disintegration of the Toadstone, mouldering away under the
influence of the Atmosphere, has left under the limestone cliffs,
many magnificent Caverns; some of these are remarkable for their
extent and some for the bieutiful stalactites and incrustations
which they contain. Mineral and Saline Springs gush out at
frequently occurring distances, and, in some of the caves,
considerable deposits of Common Salt and Carbonate of Soda are
found. The Toadstone contains many testaceous fossils, and the
Limestone several of vegetable origin. The Soil in the upper part
of this range is thin and sandy, but it supports a variety of the
smaller and hardier Plants of these regions. The face of the
Hills towards the West is however either bare rock or hopeless
Sea Sand.
From Geographe Bay, as far Northward as we visited it, the
Coast Line is formed by a Limestone ridge, varying in height from
20 to 600 feet, and extending onward from the Shore from 1 to 5
Miles; in some parts the Sand blown up from the beach by the Sea
breeze has invaded these Hills and covered them, and this
invariably where the Coast is not protected by exterior banks or
Islands. In the deep part of Geographe Bay and behind the Islands
near Rottenest, the Sand retains its place on the beach, and the
Land behind it produces there a richer sort of vegetation. Behind
this Limestone (whose occasional naked and barren appearance
probably caused the early and continued prejudices against the
fertility of this Coast) commences the great plain of
"Quartania." This occupies a space of undetermined length from
South to North, but varying in breadth from 20 to 50 Miles. At
its Western termination, it skirts the base of an almost
continued and abrupt chain of Mountains, which I have named
General Darling's range; some of these Mountains attain
considerable height; one whose elevation I had an opportunity of
measuring was visible 55 Miles from us, and I cannot consider it
less than 3,000 feet high; it is the highest of the Chain,
although I have very strong reason to suppose that a range of
much greater elevation exists at no great distance to the
Eastward.
The average height of "General Darling's range" is between 12
and 1,500 feet; its base is granite, bare rocks of which are
occasionally exposed to view at or near its summit. The Superior
regions are rocky and rendered rugged by masses, which have been
hurled from preoccupied positions. Lumps of Quartz and Limestone
were found spread about, together with Nodules of Common Iron
Stone. These Hills have to boast of little soil, but the Stringy
Bark finds sustenance there, and that with a few other hardy
plants are all their Vegetable wealth.
As the Hills are descended, the Soil improves, and, at about a
Mile from their base, fragments of Rocks and large grained Quartz
or Sand give place to a red loamy Soil, which gradually passes
into the general average Soil of the plain; for the qualities of
that soil, I refer to the Report * of Mr. Frazer who is a much
better judge than I am.
[* Note 118.]
The geological Structure of this Country will be clearly
perceived by the following recapitulation:—
First, The Limestone ridge of an average breadth of 3 Miles on
the Sea Shore, then the plain, an undulating Valley of an average
breadth of 30 Miles, and lastly the mountain range rising
abruptly from the plain to the height of 1,200 feet and extending
North and South on a line parallel with the Coast and apparently
co-extensive with it.
The temperature here takes wide ranges according to the region
and the time of day under consideration: On the Coast, the
Thermometer on Ship Board during one Month's experience averaged
72°, its extremes being 84° and 59°, the first extreme occurring
at Noon and the last usually about midnight. Immediately on the
Shore the temperature is regulated by the Sun, the Wind, and the
Sandy Soil; there the range is greater than on board Ship. On the
plain also the temperature varies from the great heat of 84 at
Noon to 59 at two hours after midnight. On the Mountains we found
a very great difference, the Atmosphere there being 15° colder
than that of the plain.
It is worthy of remark that the Sea breeze on this Coast is
usually at S.S.W. and is therefore charged with moisture and very
cool; this moderates the action of the Sun in Summer, while at
the same time, when condensed by the colder air of the Mountains
behind the Coast, the vapor it conveys descends in showers.
It is also remarkable that the Land Wind, blowing from these
mountains, is a cold wind, for it lowers the Thermometer to 59°
even on the heated Plain; and from the alternate operation of
these two winds, which seldom leave an intervening calm, the air,
notwithstanding the Sun's great heat, is cool and agreeable
except in spots, which are sheltered from the breeze or during
calms. I observed that the coldest Land Winds were from E.N.E.,
and in that direction I expect to learn hereafter that Snowy
Mountains are situated.
The hot Season of the day lasts but a few hours, as the heat
even then is mitigated by Sea breezes, and at night by the Land
wind. The ranges in temperature are neither sufficiently great
nor long enough continued to injure the health of Man. In my
opinion the Climate considered with reference to health is highly
salubrious, but I here beg leave to make an extract from a report
made to me in this subject by the Surgeon of the "Success."
H.M.S. Success at
Sea, 31st March, 1827.
Sir,
Having formed one of the party
on your late Survey of Swan River, I beg to offer a few remarks
on the state of the Climate. I am decided in my opinion that it
is the most healthy part of the Globe I have visited, having
proof positive from the state of my Sick List from our arrival
off King George's Sound to our return, a lapse of a Month, during
which time I had only slight cases of Colds, etc. I beg leave
also to remark the extreme fatigue the whole of us underwent at
different times, half naked and immersed up to our necks in water
under the rays of a hot Sun; 2nd in Sleeping for nine successive
nights in the open air, having our Hammocks merely slung from
Tree to Tree, and at times in the immediate neighbourhood of
Swampy Lands; 3rd from being under constant excitability from
bodily exertion during the whole of the day, pulling in the
Boats, and in this high state of perspiration drinking
plentifully of cold Water alongside, which was almost impossible
to prevent them from doing; yet from all these unfavorable
circumstances, my Sick List has not been increased except a
slight case of Rheumatism, which occurred about 8 or Ten days
after our return. I beg leave also to state that the degree of
heat was not oppressive, although the Quick Silver during the day
generally ranged from about 80° to 84° degrees; when the Sea
breeze prevailed, it would lower to about 78°; at Night the range
would generally be from 60 to about 68°, depending entirely upon
the Land wind which made it delightfully cool and refreshing.
I have,
&c.,
J. R.
Clause, Surgeon.
Considered with respect to labour, the Climate is not so warm
as to prevent Europeans from carrying on the operations of
Agriculture. If the heat of the Summer days between 11 and 3 be
avoided, I know of no Country which will admit of greater bodily
exertion. The Mornings and Evenings are delightfully cool, and
the nights almost invariably brilliant and clear.
After the representation, I have given of the prevailing winds
and Weather, I need scarcely state that the Climate is favorable
to Vegetation. The verdant appearance and almost innumerable
variety of Grasses, Plants and Trees skew that there is no
deficiency in the three great sources of their Sustenance, Soil,
Heat, or Moisture.
On the subject of the Botanical products of the Country, it is
impossible for me to add anything to the report of Mr. Frazer
hereunto appended. I beg leave however to offer here my
testimony, as to the Zeal, Industry and perseverance with which
he pursued the line of his duty.
The rains, which fall on this Coast Westward of General
Darling's range, flow downward to the Sea on that side. The River
Vasse of the French,* Port Leschenault, and Melville Water are
Estuaries, which receive the several Streams descending from the
Hills; and these at present are the only receptacles of any great
extent known to exist. We found a great number of Creeks or
Rivulets falling into Swan River, more particularly on the
Eastern side; and I am inclined to think that the Country
generally is much divided by such Water courses. Its Supply of
Fresh Water from Springs and Lagoons is abundant, for we found
such whenever we thought it necessary to ascertain their
existance.
[* Note 119.]
At Point Heathcote, we met with a remarkable instance, for
there the beach of a narrow rocky promontory is a bed of springs,
and by tracing the Finger along any part within 4 inches of the
edge of the Salt Water pure cool fresh Water instantly occupied
the trace; at Beuach Island also we found fresh Water by digging
on the Shore; but, as I had some doubt whether it might not arise
from the loss of Saline particles by the Salt Water filtering
through the Sand, I had a well made 50 Yards from the Shore, and
it was instantly filled by fresh Water. I then perceived that the
Water issuing from Springs in the Limestone Rocks is held back by
the greater gravity of the Sea Water, while at the same time it
is prevented from evaporating by the Sand and Soil above it. It
appears that fresh Water in such a Country may always be expected
to be found near the point of Contact between Sea and Land, or at
a height just above high Water mark. On the whole it may
confidently be assumed that fresh Water is plentiful all over
this Territory.
In this Territory as well as in all Countries of Limestone
formation, mineral Springs are abundant. Within half a Mile of
Arthur's head a saline Spring exists, bubbling out at the base of
the Solid Rock in a stream, whose transverse area is 6 or 7 feet,
running at the rate of three feet a second. I shall not pretend
to state its qualities or compound parts. It is however Thermal
and pleasant, and some, who partook of it, attributed to it an
aperient power.
In the Neighbourhood of Cape Naturalist also, we found several
Mineral springs; and, in one instance in the interior far above
any Agency of the Sea, Mr. Belches found the dried up basin of a
Salt Lagoon.
On concluding this view of the Country as regards its supply
of Water, I cannot but suggest the probability there is of a
great River being found Eastward of the mountain range, and
flowing probably to the Northward.
No such River has its Embouchure on the South Coast, nor does
such exist on the West Coast as far as examined by us; yet there
must be an outlet to the rains which fall there, and which from
the nature of the Weather must be considerable in Winter and
frequent in all other Seasons.
In Physical endowments and qualities, the Native Inhabitants
of this shore resemble closely the race of New South Wales. They
have the same distinctive marks in the make of their persons,
large Heads, spare Trunks, long and disproportioned limbs. They
are active and hardy in habit, and seem to possess the qualities
usually springing from such habits; Bravery, Vivacity, and
Quickness, and a Temper alternating between kindness and
ferocity.
The intention I adopted on arriving here was to avoid by every
possible means a quarrel with them, and the necessity consequent
thereon of rendering hostile to future Settlers in revenge for
the severe measures we should be obliged to take if put on our
defence. I am happy to say that in this plan I was not
disappointed, for, after many communications with them, we
departed without any misunderstanding, and indeed on terms of
amity with several Tribes. In general they wear Kangaroo Cloaks
with the exception of which they were naked. Their Arms are the
Spear and Womera, differing very little from those made use of on
the East Coast. Their numbers are considerable when it is
remembered that the sources which supply Food are so precarious.
For this in Summer they frequent the Sea Coast, where their skill
in spearing Fish is truly wonderful. In Winter they inhabit the
higher grounds, where the Kangaroo, the Opossum, the Land
Tortoise, several species of Birds and roots compose their
sustenance.
They seem to have no idea of Navigation, not even of a raft.
They fish either with the Spear or Weirs planted in Shoal places.
They may easily be attached to the interest and Persons of
Settlers, but care must be taken in all intercourse with them for
they are capricious and revengeful and always ready to resort to
offensive measures. It was evident to us that we were objects of
new and excessive astonishment, and they were so to us in some
degree; but I was more particularly surprised at hearing them use
the terms "Kangaroo," where we touched their Cloaks, "Wallebie"
"Walle Walle" and "Wollamia," when we shewed them a particular
kind of Fish; these are all Port Jackson terms.
Kangaroo, Opossum and Tortoise are the only Land Animals,
whose existence we can answer for here; the Native Dog we heard
occasionally at night but did not see him. Of Reptiles the Amount
is short. Lizards and Guannas were seen, and one Snake only the
whole time we were there; it was however the dry Season, during
which it is probable they remain torpid in their retreats.
Of Birds the List is longer; there are found here the Emu, and
in the greatest abundance Swans and several varieties of the Duck
Tribe, Cockettoos white and Black; a new species of the first
colour was seen in great bieuty; Pigeons, Quails, and Parroquets
were also numerous, and to the abovementioned may be added some
Birds of very melodious Note, which were heard but not seen.
We saw many Seals on the Islands, but all of the hair or least
valuable Species; it was not the Season for Whales but their
wrecks strewed the Shore of Geographe Bay. Sharks were enormous
and numerous, and Fish generally exist here in great abundance.
The Bottom of the Sea is composed of a calcareous Sand, sometimes
passing into marl or clay. On this there are endless varieties of
Marine Plants, and these seem to form the sustenance of
quantities of small fish.
When it is considered that the bank extends a hundred Miles
from the Shore, and, whenever the bottom is seen, presents a
moving picture of various Animals gliding over the green Surface
of the bottom, it is not too much to look forward to the time
when a valuable fishery may be established on these Shores. As it
is now, a Boat with one or two Men in her might be filled in a
few hours, and a luxurious addition be made at a Cheap rate to
the food of Inhabitants.
Of Shells, there is the greatest abundance; they are thrown up
on the Beach in beds of several feet in thickness.
The reported Sterility of Soil, the absence of fresh Water and
the impossibility of finding safe anchorage on the West Coast of
New Holland have been long looked upon as insurmountable
objections to its being Settled; the first two of these
objections are met and obviated by the facts stated in the
preceeding part of this Report, and I am now to shew to what
extent the third objection is founded on fact.
Anchorage on the Coast under consideration, which afford
protection from Southerly and S.W. winds, may be considered Safe
except in Winter, the following are of this
description:—
The Bay nearest Cape Naturalist is objectionable as a
permanent anchorage, for, being near the Cape, a heavy Swell
rolls into it at all times and the bottom is not clear of Rocks.
An Anchorage for temporary purposes however may be found in it in
4 fathoms, the Northern extremity bearing about N. by W. ½ W. The
ore which is found in the Neighbouring Cliffs, the fresh Water
Streams around it, or the curing of Fish on its Shores may render
a more exact Survey of that part hereafter valuable.
The Second Bay is the one in which we anchored; the exterior
Northern Point bore N.W. W., having for bottom an extremely
tenacious Stiff clay, from which it was difficult to extract the
Anchor; we were then ¾ of a Mile froth the Beach in the middle of
the Bay, near which were 4 fathoms and Smooth Water, the point
then bearing N.W. b. N.
The third Bay, I understood from Mr. Belches report, offers
shelter as far as N.N.W., and in his opinion is a preferable
Anchorage to the one we occupied, there being no symptom on the
Shore of any boisterous Sea ever having acted on it, while we
found fresh Water Springs behind the Beach, good Soil in the
Valley, and abundance of Wood.
Beyond the 3rd Bay, the Coast takes the direction of South for
2 or 2½ Miles, and small Vessels may Anchor all along it near the
Shore, having the Northern extremity of the Land about N. ½ W. or
N. b. W. from them.
In that corner of Geographe Bay, there is not a great depth of
Water; but the bottom seems clear of Rocks and the Beach is
accessible. Indeed all along the Shore of Geographe Bay, from
Cape Naturalist nearly as low down as Cape Bouvard, boats may
land on the Beach and Vessels Anchor off it with Southerly Winds;
and, as these and the Land breeze prevail for at least Nine
Months, a Coasting Trade might derive benefit from such facility
of communication.
The bar Harbours moreover at Port Lechenault and River Vasse
offer asylum to small Vessels; upon the whole it may be said that
Geographe Bay and its neighbourhood offer good Anchorage to
Vessels in the proper seasons and the capability of Shipping or
Landing Cargoes on an extent of Coast of 60 or 70 Miles.
Twenty Miles Northward of Cape Bouvard there is a Passage or
narrow Strait about a Mile broad, between a projecting point of
the Main Land and the South end of Buache Island; this passage,
as reported to me by the Master of the Success, admits not the
entry of Vessels drawing more than 6 feet; reefs extend from each
Side, leaving a Channel between their extremities, but there is a
Shoal Bank inside of them which blocks up the entrance. He found
no Island in the Channel as marked on the French Charts, nor did
I see any in the view I had of it from the Main Land. I saw the
Sea breaking on the Rocks nearly all across, and I suppose the
French mistook the point for an Island, not being near enough to
observe the sandy ishmus behind it. I shall not attempt to
describe in detail the various Rocks Islands and Banks, which
extend Northerly from Cape Bouvard to the North side of
Rottenest. The Chart will explain their relative positions. I
advert however to the following Anchorages:—
First.—On the N.E. side of Rottenest, there is very good
temporary Anchorage with the usual Coast Winds and Weather.
Second.—Off the Mouth of the River and not far from it,
there is an excellent Roadstead for Vessels of any Size, the
Water is smooth, the bottom good, the depth from 3 to 12 fathoms,
the communication with the Shore convenient, and the access easy
as well by night as day. It is sheltered by Islands, or banks, or
by the Main Land on every point except from N.N.W. to W.N.W. It
is much Superior in security to Table Bay, as well as in its
closeness to the Shore, and offering at all times facilities for
landing or embarking. It has this further advantage that there a
Vessel may lie in 4 or 5 fathoms within one Cable's length from
the River's mouth or from the Beach in Gage's Bay.
Thirdly.—To the Southward of Arthur's Head, there is a
Bay sheltered on all points, but the depth is not more than 2
fathoms, and it is only fit for small Vessels.
Fourthly.—Port Success is sheltered on all sides by the
Main, or by islands, Rocks or banks; it is not however convenient
and, although secure, I cannot recommend it for general
purposes.
Fifth.—The best Anchorage however on this Coast is in
Cockburn Sound; there is a Channel into it from Sea with not less
than 5 fathoms of Water in it When a Ship is in the Sound, there
are variable Soundings from 15 fathoms downward, and the holding
ground good and clear except on the banks which are easily
perceived.
Near the Island Side of the Sound, the only points, on which
the land is not seen, are from North to N.E., but the Main Land
at the distance of 20 or 30 Miles covers that Space, and moreover
the Sea, that might be raised by so long a reach, is prevented
reaching the Sound by a tripple barrier of Shoal Water banks, on
the nearest of which there are only 1½ and 2 fathoms. I do not
scruple to call it at all times perfectly Secure and available
for Vessels of the greatest dimensions, as well as for any number
of them.
Middle Bay in Isle Beuache has 7 fathoms Water close to its
Beach; the Main Land also has a smooth and accessible Shore with
deep Water all along it, except on the Shoal parts indicated on
the Chart.
Although no objection to the Security of this Anchorage can
exist, one may be made to its inconvenience for Merchant Ships
who have Cargoes to deliver in Swan River, the distance to which
is 6 or 7 Miles. To this I reply they need not occupy Cockburn
Sound except in Seasons when N.W. gales may be expected; at other
times Gage's Roads will be both safe and convenient.
The entrance to Melville Water between the Heads is over a
bar; there is a Channel with 6 feet Water on it at low water. It
is only practicable therefore for Boats. About a Mile inside the
Heads the Water deepens, and then commences a succession of
Natural Cliffs or Wharfs with 4, 5 and 6 fathoms close to their
sides. For several Miles upward there are from 6 to 8 fathoms
over a large expanse of Water.
The magnificent Bason there displayed would be the first
Harbour in the World if it had an entrance; and such an entrance
might be made without difficulty or great expense.
The Rivers here are tolerably convenient for Boat Navigation,
and might be easily rendered sufficiently so to transport by
Water Carriage the products of an immense extent of Country.
Such is the nature and description of the Ports and Anchorages
existing on the part of the Coast I visited. Their value is not
to be estimated solely by their own merits, but it is to be
remembered that as yet no other is known to exist on the whole of
the Western Coast except Sharks Bay, where the heat of the
Climate and the Sterility of the Soil prevent the possibility of
Settlement.
With respect to the Navigation of the Coast generally, the
known alternations of Land and Sea breezes and the general
Southerly Trade wind offer fair winds to Vessels, whichever way
they may be bound. I cannot say what sort of weather the Winter
brings, but in Summer it is generally clear and moderate; and the
Soundings are so regular and procurable at such great distance
from the Land that Navigators must be both safe and easy in this
Neighbourhood. I subjoin an estimate of the passages, which would
probably be made by a fast Sailing Vessel between Cockburn Sound
Estimate oround and various parts of the World.
| Place. | Distance. | Winds. | Time on passage. | ||
| Timor | 1,500 | SE | 12 | days | |
| Java | 1,700 | " | 13 | " | |
| Madras | 3,400 | " | 30 | " | |
| Ceylon | 3,100 | " | 28 | " | |
| Isle France | 3,400 | " | 21 | " | |
| Cape Good Hope | 5,000 | " | 30 | " | |
| England—This passage may be made in | " | 84 | " | ||
| Van Dieman's Land | 2,200 | S.W. | 42 | " | |
| Port Jackson | 2,500 | " | 50 | " | |
| Place. | Distance. | Winds. | Time on passage. | ||
| Timor | 1,500 | SE | 12 | days | |
| Java | 1,700 | " | 13 | " | |
| Madras | 3,400 | " | 30 | " | |
| Ceylon | 3,100 | " | 28 | " | |
| Isle France | 3,400 | " | 21 | " | |
| Cape Good Hope | 5,000 | " | 30 | " | |
| England—This passage may be made in | " | 84 | " | ||
| Van Dieman's Land | 2,200 | S.W. | 42 | " | |
| Port Jackson | 2,500 | " | 50 | " | |
Map 3. Chart of Swan and Canning Rivers
on the Western Coast of Australia [showing land grants to
Stirling and Peel].
[Source: SROWA Map Series 234, Item 411.]
[Click on the map to enlarge it.]
In other respects the associated Gentlemen will be placed on
the Footing of other Settlers.
The Choice of the Land so selected to be communicated to Sir
George Murray for his Approval.
Map 4. Thomas Peel's [ultimate] grant of
249,999 acres.
[Source: SROWA Series 234, Item 263.]
[Click on the map to enlarge it.]
The explorations which have been effected at the instance of
government and by private individuals, have put us in possession
of knowledge relative to the coast to the extent of seventy miles
northward from Rottenest, and ninety miles to the southward of
it. In that extent the only discoveries of note are six rivers of
no great magnitude, and one bar harbour capable only of receiving
boats. The land seen on the coast to the northward is represented
as indifferent, while that to the south is reported to be good.
With the country between the sea coast and the hills, ten leagues
to the north and south of Perth, we are well acquainted; and
three or four parties having severally penetrated the hilly
district beyond the first range to the extent of twenty miles, we
possess some information relative to its soil and products.
It is not necessary to transmit the several reports, which
have been addressed to me on these points, and on the qualities
of the soil and water or the value of indigenous productions;
these will be best determined when they shall have been tried.
The only document of this description, which I consider it
necessary at present to lay before you, is the survey of Cockburn
Sound by the Chief Surveyor, Mr. Roe; on its accuracy the most
perfect reliance may be placed, as it has been effected and
lately completed by the most unwearying and skilful application.
I beg to suggest, for the convenience of ships coming here, that
it should be made public. It will be extended shortly so as to
include the adjoining coast, and I shall then forward full
instructions for vessels navigating the seas in the
neighbourhood.
In the meanwhile I am proceeding to have the passage into
Cockburn Sound properly buoyed and beaconed; and I have arranged
with a gentleman resident here to maintain a sufficient
establishment of pilots and pilot-boats.
By the document No. 1, you will be enabled to estimate the
number and quality of the persons who have come to this
Settlement and the descriptions of property they have imported.
Among the heads of families, there is a great majority of highly
respectable and independent persons. In the working class there
is a great variety; some masters have been careful in the
selection of their servants and workmen, but the greater part
have either engaged the outcasts of parishes, or have brought out
men without reference to character; and the consequence is, great
inconvenience to such masters and endless trouble to the
authorities established here.
Permission to select land according to the land regulations,
heretofore transmitted, has been granted to all whose property
has been valued. Their names and the extent of their respective
claims appear in the document No. 2; a note of such persons as
have actually commenced cultivation is therein contained.
In the towns of Perth and Freemantle, regular buildings are
succeeding to the early temporary structures. I contemplate the
establishment of three other towns, one on the shore of Cockburn
Sound; one about ten miles higher than Perth on the Swan River;
and a third on the Murray River, twenty-five miles to the
southward. In fact, the mode of granting lands in such large
allotments tends to spread a small community over a large
surface, and to give existence to towns with few inhabitants.
Among so many settlers, there could not be a great number with
minds and bodies suited to encounter the struggles and distresses
of a new settlement; many, if not all, have accordingly been more
or less disappointed on arrival, either with the state of things
here or their own want of power to surmount the difficulties
pressing around them. This has been experienced in the beginning
by every new colony, and might have been expected to occur here
as well as elsewhere. From this depression, however, the active
and stout-hearted have now recovered, and ten or twelve of the
leading men of the Settlement having occupied their grounds, and
having declared themselves fully satisfied with the quality of
the soil and the condition of their cattle, I consider the
undertaking is now safe from the effects of a general
despondency, which at one time threatened to defeat the views of
His Majesty's Government in this quarter.
The live stock, which has been brought here, has been in
several instances of the very best quality, and it will be seen
by document (—) to be very considerable in quantity; with
very few exceptions arising chiefly from neglect, all kinds have
done well. We are now drawing to the close of the dry season, and
yet the bullocks and sheep continue to fatten upon the natural
grasses. Horses from England have not prospered so well, but have
maintained themselves without any food but the native
herbage.
The building of houses and boats, the examination of the
country, the selection of land, and the transport of goods from
the shore to their allotments have not left settlers much time to
attend to any thing else. The season during the three last
months, moreover, has been unfavourable to agriculture and
gardening from the hard and dry state of the ground; but, the
time for breaking it up being now arrived, I hope to see farming
operations commence with vigour.
I am happy to say, with reference to grazing, that there is
every reason to be satisfied with the result of our experience up
to the present time.
Fishing has been much and successfully practised. The rivers
and coasts abound in fish, and great supplies of food have been
drawn from that source.
Many settlers have employed themselves in the construction of
boats for the conveyance of their goods on the rivers. The number
in the Settlement is now very considerable, being not less than
forty.
Such are the various points, by the exhibition of which I am
desirous to acquaint you with the present condition of the
Settlement. In offering them, I have confined myself to a
representation of facts; but, as I now propose to consider the
prospects of the country, I beg to premise that the following
statements contain matters of speculation rather than of
certainty:—
The qualities of the territory, to which the best informed
persons attend in forming an opinion of its future prospects, are
its its Climate and Soil, its Position for Trade, and the
Products of the Sea in its vicinity.
Our experience of its Climate extends throughout the circle of
the year with the exception of the month of February. That it is
favourable to health in an uncommon degree is the undoubting
persuasion of every one with whom I have spoken. In the district
we now inhabit, the workmen during the last two months have not
been able to work in the sun between ten and three o'clock, but
exertion at other times produces no consequent lassitude; and,
with the exception of ten or eleven days, the summer heat has
been tempered by southern breezes, and thereby rendered very
agreeable. Since the first of November we have had no rain in the
lower country; but I think rains have fallen occasionally in the
hills during the last fortnight, and I expect a share of them on
the coast before the middle of February. This drought of three or
four months fortunately occurs at the season proper for harvest;
it is, however, too long for the purposes of pasturage,
particularly in this district, as the grasses and plants are much
injured by the great and glowing heat of the sun. The colony may
be extended three degrees to the southward, and I think the
future arrangements will probably be that the best districts for
pasturage and wheat tillage will be the more southerly; while
maize, olives, vines and other similar products will be
cultivated in this parallel.
With reference to the Soil of this territory, I cannot offer a
sound opinion; we at present are acquainted with a very small
portion of it; we still less know how far climate may modify the
productive power of soils, and indeed have had as yet no
experience of their qualities. The most skilful farmers from
England profess themselves at a loss to form a judgment here; as
processes in vegetation are going forward before their eyes, even
on mere sands, which are wholly irreconcileable to their
pre-existing notions and modes of judging. I think I am safe,
however, in stating that the sandy soils on the coast produce a
shrubby herbage on which horned cattle, horses and sheep have
lived now throughout the greatest part of the year; that there is
between the hills and the sea a breadth of red loamy soil, on
which grain and grasses may be produced; that the banks of the
rivers and numerous streams offer the richest alluvial loam; and
that the hills themselves, although occasionally very rugged, are
capable of becoming good sheep pasture, as the soil on their
sides, where it exists at all, is invariably excellent, resting
on granite and whinstone. I am more cautious on this subject,
because there have been opinions given by individuals, who have
seen only the sea beach, and have stated broadly that there is no
good soil. In the estimate I have offered, I have therefore
confined myself to points undisputed by those who have examined
the country.
Those persons in the Settlement, who direct their attention to
the Produce of the soil, may be divided into two classes,
following either pasturage or tillage. I cannot at present form
an estimate of the number of cattle, horses and sheep, which may
be kept on an average of any given extent of land. The country as
it is will certainly sustain a considerable number, as there is
both food and water at the present season, the driest and worst
of the year.
This fact is important in the highest degree; for the power of
supporting such animals without artificial food will secure not
only a profit to their owners, but a supply hereafter of
necessary food to the Settlement. We have already here several
thorough bred horses; the profit on these in the case of any one
individual will be more precarious than on sheep; of the latter,
we have small flocks from the well-known breeds of Messrs. Henty,
Trimmer and Tower, and to their increase and future profit I
think we may look with confidence, as their proprietors here are
fully satisfied with their progress heretofore. I consider
pasturage as the source whence the greatest returns will be made,
particularly when the Colony shall extend itself two or three
degrees of latitude to the southward.
The views of those, who look to tillage, are as yet confined
to gardening and farming for their own consumption. I shall
follow the judicious and enlightened opinion of Mr. Archdeacon
Scott in attracting to this mode of production those only, who
have no capital or who cannot be employed in grazing; as the
cheapness with which grain is raised in the colonies around us
will prevent the production of it at a rate lower than it may be
imported at. There are, however, some articles on the produce of
which it is supposed great profits may be made, viz.:
Very superior flax and a species of hemp grow spontaneously,
and may be cultivated perhaps to advantage; timber is abundant,
and may be profitably sent to export; vines, olives, figs, opium
and tobacco are looked to as future sources of export; but these,
as well as many more such articles, must await the time when the
present subsistence and comfort of the settlers shall be provided
for, and a stock of the necessaries of life accumulated.
The facilities which are offered here for curing fish for the
Mauritius, and for carrying on a whale fishery, have not escaped
the attention of some of the settlers; even thus early I have had
applications from several parties, but, judging the time not
arrived, I have not hastened by particular encouragement such
establishments. It is believed that there is abundance of fish to
make a fishery profitable, and the coast is visited between the
months of May and November by a multitude of whales; it will be
my object to foster these fisheries in boats and small vessels
drawing their maintenance from these shores.
The position, which this Settlement occupies with reference to
the Trade of these seas, has been in some measure shown by the
arrival of ships from various parts of the world; some of these
from England have landed all their cargo here, but the greater
part have called without inconvenience, and have disposed of part
of their passengers and cargo here, and have then proceeded on
their routes; two vessels have gone from this to the Malay
Islands, but only one has come thence. I understand there are
four small vessels intended to be employed in that and other
lines of trade, diverging from this as a centre; and it will then
be determined whether the idea is correct, which supposes this a
good position from which to dispose of British manufactures among
the easternmost of the Malay Islands.
These are the prospects which engage the minds of those
persons here, who have overcome the anxieties of their first
establishment in a new land. But, in holding out to your notice
these prospects, which are contemplated by those whose minds are
in a healthy state, I must not lead you to believe that such a
favourable view of things is entertained by all here. The greater
part, incapable of succeeding in England, are not likely to
prosper here to the extent of their groundless and inconsiderable
expectations. Many of the settlers who have come should never
have left a safe and tranquil state of life; and, if it be
possible to discourage one set of people and to encourage
another, I would earnestly request that for a few years the
helpless and inefficient may be kept from the Settlement, while,
to the active, industrious and intelligent, there may be assured
with confidence a fair reward for their labours. This country
may, at no distant period, absorb with advantage to Great Britain
and herself an immense migration of persons; any great portion of
which, if sett forward too soon, will ruin her prospects and
their own.
This site is full of FREE ebooks - Project Gutenberg Australia