Dhaka (Narinda) Christian cemetery in old town Dhaka
The Dhaka Christian Cemetery (also known as the Narinda Cemetery) is a graveyard situated in Wari, a district of the old towninDhaka, Bangladesh. It was established by Portuguese traders in the 17th century and is still in use by members of the Dhaka Christian community. It contains two designated archaeological sites, the Columbo Sahib mausoleum and the tomb of Reverend Joseph Paget. Many of the oldest graves and mausoleums are in a state of disrepair and are being overtaken by unchecked vegetation growth and lack of maintenance, while other parts of the cemetery still see new burials taking place at regular intervals. It is open daily to visitors.
Origins
Dhaka's first church for the Christian community was established on this site. It is recorded that priest Sebastian Manrique came to Dhaka between 1624 and 1629 and recorded a church at the location of the cemetery.[2] There are further references to a church being located at this location and this is mentioned in the accounts of many other priests and tourists. French gem merchant and traveller Jean Baptiste Tavernier visited Dhaka in 1666 and Niccolò Menucci soon after, with both referring to a church at this location. It is assumed that Portuguese Augustinians built the church, and that the present burial ground was originally the burial ground adjacent to the church, commonly referred to as the "church graveyard."[2]
At the time when the church was established, other European ethnic groups started living in Dhaka. In 1632 ethnic conflict peaked between the Portuguese and other nationalities and most Portuguese settlers, traders and priests were ousted on the orders of Emperor Shah Jahan and they fled to Hooghly. Dhaka locals declared solidarity with the emperor and beat the parish priest, Father Bernardo, to death. It is believed that he is also buried in the cemetery.[2]
A list of Augustinian churches established in Bengal was drawn up in 1789 but the Narinda church was not listed. It is assumed that the church was destroyed sometime between 1713 and 1789, but the cemetery remained in use.[2]
Prominent graves and their architectural significance
The cemetery has several distinct architectural forms related to mausoleums, grave embellishments and tombstones:
Moorish gateway and Mughal tombs
Earliest photographic image of Columbo Sahib's mausoleum to the right, and Moorish arch on the left. Photo taken in 1875 by Johnston & Hoffmann, CalcuttaThe Moorish arch demarcating the original entrance to the cemetery
The Moorish-type gateway was built during the Mughal period using thin 'jafri bricks' (these are clearly visible where the plaster has fallen off in parts).[3] The gate would previously have led into a specific section of the graveyard, but today its location and purpose are more obscure.[4] Its position also reveals that no formal layout was maintained in the expansion of the cemetery.[2]
Graves adorned with the obelisk and urn, resemble the contemporary best-known English cemeteries in Calcutta; the Baroque character of the older and provincial cemeteries. The Indian version of the pyramid stands on a podium where the inscriptions are laid, has a less broad base, which is smoothly uplifted to an acute angled apex.[2]
The Columbo Sahib mausoleum
Columbo Sahib mausoleum condition compared between 1950 and 2022
The largest structure in the cemetery is a mausoleum containing three graves, all without any inscription.[5] The lower part of the mausoleum resembles a Mughal mosque with four evenly spaced, arched doorways – one on each side of the structure. The next level is constructed with prominent gothic features while the cupola is based on baroque style architecture.[1] A painting of the mausoleum was completed by the German artist Johann Zoffany in 1786, titled "Nagaphon Ghat"[6] (translated from Bengali it means the Nagaphon mooring or dock), depicting the structure on the Dolai Khal or creek, that has since been filled back and no longer reaches as far as the cemetery.[7].
Painting titled Nagaphon Ghat: The Columbo Sahib mausoleum located in the Christian Cemetery as painted by German artist Johann Zoffany in 1786[7]
The structure was first referred to as the Columbo Sahib mausoleumbyReginald Heber, the Bishop of Calcutta[5]in an 1824 account of his visit to Dacca. Heber had consecrated the Narinda cemetery in 1824 and recorded the presence of the large imposing tomb as "....Some of the tombs are very handsome; one more particularly, resembling the buildings raised over the graves of Mussulman saints, has a high octagon gothic tower, with a cupola in the same style, and eight windows with elaborate tracer..[5] Herber enquired of the gatekeeper as to who it belonged to and was told "It's the tomb of Columbo Sahib, an employee of the East India Company." Herber recorded that he could not find any inscription and doubted that the name was that of an Englishman.[5] Today there is no mention of Columbo Sahib in any preserved early Persian, Urdu, Bengali or English chronicles.[1]
Archaeologist Tim Steel later recorded Columbo Sahib as a merchant who came to Dhaka from Colombo, Ceylon, to trade and subsequently prospered and became famously known in Dhaka as Columbo Sahib. There is also an opinion that Columbo could have been a Portuguese or Sri Lankan Sinhalese Christian who came to Dhaka from Colombo. He could also have been a local Luso-Portuguese gentleman from the Indian subcontinent. The Portuguese connection is also reinforced by Charles Greig[8] speculating that Columbo was Portuguese. Grieg speculates that the Columbo mausoleum was built circa 1670–80 during the time of a very strong presence of Portuguese traders in Dhaka.[1]Francis Bradley Bradley-Birt records the Columbo Sahib structre as: A high octagonal Gothic tower with eight windows, the whole surmounted by a cupola in the same style, it stands nameless, dominating the whole cemetery and jealously keeping watch over the three graves that lie within. .....Silent and impressive, the towering mausoleum keeps well the secret that it holds.[9]
Mass grave from 1943 Bengal famine
The cemetery also contains a mass-grave, demarcated by a low stone fence surrounding a square area, containing the remains of Christians who succumbed to the Bengal famine of 1943. There is no plaque or reference to those interned in this grave.[citation needed]
Present condition and use
The old section of the cemetery had been in a declining state since the early 1800s as noticed by both Reginald Heber and F. B. Bradley-Birt, although the decay had a more emotional romantic appeal to them. The original road layout of the cemetery has faded away with time, but it can be understood that a couple of straight roads intersected to make a path system within the network with the tombs jumbled into a group to form one or two clusters, while making it hardly visible to visitors.[citation needed]. The Dhaka Department of Archaeology has declared the early-18th-century mausoleum of Columbo Sahib and the 1724 tomb of Reverend Joseph Paget as two of the city's 22 heritage sites.[4] This has however not stopped the decay and crumbling of the structures.[10]
Portions of the cemetery that are still in use, with Mughal tombs in the background right.
Notable interments
Joseph Padget (1724), Chaplain of Bengal, who died while visiting Dacca from India at the age of twenty-six, on 16 March 1724.[9] His grave is the oldest in the cemetery.
Jane Rennell (1774), the infant daughter of James Rennell[11] and Jane Thackarey (who took a silver model of their infant daughter's grave back to England on their departure from Dacca).[9]
Wonsi Quan (1796), who's gravestone was erected by his friend Wona Chow in 1796, both Chinese converts to Christianity.[9][1]
There is a monument to two soldiers killed in the Sepoy Mutiny of 1857 (to the left of the entrance first grave on the path).
Other military graves hold Henry Smith who died on 22 November 1857, the day of the Rebellion and that of soldiers Neil McMullen and James Moores who died on 23 November 1857. William Esden and Robert Brown were also victims of the mutiny and died on 24 November 1857.[2]
Joakim G. Nicholas Pogose (1876), Founder of Pogoz School (first private school in Dhaka, established in 1848). He became director of Dhaka Bank established in 1846 and in 1874, Commissioner of Dhaka Municipality.[4][2]
Elizabeth David (1878), wife of Marcar David, the "Merchant Prince of Bengal" who died on 18 November 1878. The grave has an exquisite statue of Madonna, reflecting the wealth her family.[4]
Maj. Gen. Hamilton Vetch (1865), Maj. Gen. of the Bengal Army. He contributed significantly to the jungle war in Assam.[12]
Jennette Rummary (1892), (also known as "Jennette Van Tassell").[13] She made the first manned balloon flight and subsequent parachute jump in Bangladesh's history on 16 March 1892 as a member of a travelling American aerial exhibition troop led by Park Van Tassel. The flying troupe was invited to perform in Dhaka by Nawab of Dhaka, advertising that the female pilot would ascend in a balloon and fly over the Ahsan Manzil adjacent to the Buriganga river, and would descend via a parachute[14] She started the balloon flight from the southern bank of the Buriganga but encountered difficulties and strong winds causing her to jump from the balloon. Her parachute became ensnared in a tree in what is today Ramna Park and she was severely injured while being rescued. She died in hospital three days later and was buried in the cemetery.[15] Her grave is unmarked.[14]