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F r o m W i k i p e d i a , t h e f r e e e n c y c l o p e d i a
Jakob Schubert
Nationality Austrian Born (1990-12-31 ) December 31, 1990 (age 33 ) Innsbruck , AustriaOccupation Professional sport climber Height 176 cm (5 ft 9 in ) Weight 63 kg (139 lb ) Website https://www.jakob-schubert.com Type of climber
Sport climbing
Bouldering
Highest grade
On-sight : 8c (5.14b)
Known for
Three times World Cup (lead) winner (2011, 2014, 2018)
Four times World (lead) Champion (2012, 2018, 2021, 2023)
Most men's IFSC Gold Medals
First ascents
Companion of Change (9a+, 2015)
Kein Licht Kein Schatten (9a, 2016)
B.I.G. (9c, 2023)
Updated on August 5, 2021
Jakob Schubert (born December 31, 1990) is an Austrian professional rock climber , specializing in competition climbing (lead and boulder), sport climbing , and bouldering . He was four times World Champion (2012, 2018, 2021, 2023) and three times World Cup winner (2011, 2014, 2018) in lead climbing . In August 2021, he won bronze at the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo. As of the end of 2022, Schubert had won the most men's IFSC gold medals of any male competition climber in history. In addition to competition climbing, Schubert is the only climber in the world to have redpointed a 9c (5.15d) graded sport climbing route and climbed a 9A (V17) graded bouldering problem.
Climbing career [ edit ]
Competition climbing [ edit ]
Schubert started competition climbing in 2003 when he was twelve years old. In 2004, he participated in the European Youth Cup and World Youth Championships. Since 2007, he regularly participates in World Cup competitions for lead climbing. For seven World Cup seasons out of ten, from 2007 to 2016, he also competed in bouldering.[citation needed ]
In 2011, he won the Lead World Cup and the silver medal at the Lead World Championships in Arco .[1] The World Cup was outstandingly obtained by winning seven consecutive competitions in that season. Previously, no climber was ever able to win as many World Cup competitions in a single season (in 2002, Alexandre Chabot had won six).[2]
In 2012, he won the Lead Climbing World Championships in Paris.[3]
In 2014, he won the Lead World Cup for the second time.[4]
In 2018, when he was 27 years old, he became World Champion again, in his own birthplace and hometown, Innsbruck . He earned the title by reaching in the final event the same score as Adam Ondra (36+), but a higher score in the semifinal, where he ranked second after Domen Škofic . A few days later, in the same competition, he also conquered the Combined title by ranking second in Speed, first in Bouldering, and second in Lead. In the same year, he was awarded his third World Cup.[citation needed ]
Schubert's performance at the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships qualified him for a place at the Tokyo 2020 Olympics [5] where he won Bronze.
Schubert won the lead event at the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Championships , becoming the oldest world champion in the sport,[6] and he followed that up by winning the combined event which qualifies him for the 2024 Summer Olympics in Paris .[7]
Rock climbing [ edit ]
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(August 2023 )
Rankings [ edit ]
Jakob Schubert at the World Cup in Munich , 2012.
Climbing World Cup [ edit ]
Discipline[8]
2007
2008
2009
2010
2011
2012
2013
2014
2015
2016
2017
2018
Lead
26
7
4
2
1
3
2
1
3
2
6
1
Bouldering
60
65
19
3
2
-
25
23
10
9
Speed
-
-
-
-
-
43
59
-
-
-
-
59
Combined
-
-
4
2
1
1
1
-
4
2
6
1
Climbing World Championships [ edit ]
Youth [9]
Discipline
2004 Youth B
2005 Youth B
2006 Youth A
2007 Youth A
2008 Juniors
2009 Juniors
Lead
33
2
2
1
1
1
Adult [9]
Climbing European Championships [ edit ]
Discipline[9]
2008
2010
2013
2015
2017
Lead
6
3
7
6
3
Bouldering
-
-
3
4
-
Speed
-
-
35
27
31
Number of medals in the Climbing European Youth Cup [ edit ]
Season[9]
Category
Gold
Silver
Bronze
Total
2004
Youth B
1
1
2005
Youth B
1
1
2006
Youth A
3
1
1
5
Total
3
1
3
7
Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup [ edit ]
Season[9]
Gold
Silver
Bronze
Total
2008
1
1
2009
1
1
2
2010
1
2
1
4
2011
7
1
1
9
2012
1
3
1
5
2013
2
2
1
5
2014
2
1
2
5
2015
2
2
4
2016
2
3
5
2017
2
1
3
2018
2
3
5
2019
1
1
2020
1
1
2021
1
1
2023
1
1
2
2024
1
1
Total
21
17
16
54
Bouldering [ edit ]
Season[9]
Gold
Silver
Bronze
Total
2011
1
1
2012
1
1
2
2013
1
1
1
3
2018
1
1
2019
1
1
2
2021
1
1
2024
1
1
Total
3
2
6
11
Notable ascents [ edit ]
9c (5.15d):
9b+ (5.15c):
9b (5.15b):
9a+ (5.15a)
Es Pontàs – Mallorca (ESP ) – October, 2021 – Fourth ascent of Chris Sharma's 2006 route.
Catxasa – Santa Linya (ESP ) – January 9, 2018 – Second ascent after Chris Sharma
Seleccio Anal – Oliana (ESP ) – January 8, 2017
Pachamama – Oliana (ESP ) – January 2, 2017 – Third ascent (first by Chris Sharma , 2009)
Joe Mama – Oliana (ESP ) – December 27, 2016 – Second ascent after Chris Sharma
Kangroo Limb – Flatanger (NOR ) – May 29, 2016 – Second ascent after Adam Ondra
Companion of Change – Zillertal (AUT ) – November 18, 2015 – First ascent
Papichulo – Oliana (ESP ) – April 27, 2011 – Sixth ascent (first by Chris Sharma , 2008)[12]
9a (5.14d):
Kein Licht Kein Schatten – Ötztal (AUT ) – November 8, 2016 – First ascent
Kraftplatzl – Berglsteiner See (AUT ) – October 15, 2016 – Second Ascent after David Lama
Direct open your mind – Santa Linya (ESP ) – January 3, 2013
Fuck the System – Santa Linya (ESP)- January 2, 2013[13]
Analogica Natural – Santa Linya (ESP) – January 2, 2013[13]
Seleccio Natural – Santa Linya (ESP) – December 28, 2012
Ciudad de Dios – Santa Linya (ESP) – December 24, 2012
Martin Krpan – Misja Pec (SVN ) – November 21, 2011[14]
Hades – Nassereith , Götterwand (AUT ) – May 30, 2010 – First ascent by Andreas Bindhammer, 2008[15]
Underground – Massone, Arco (ITA ) – March 30, 2010 – First ascent by Manfred Stuffer, 1998
8c (5.14b):
9A (V17)
8C (V15)
Sierra Madre – Zillertal (AUT ) – November 20, 2018
8B+ (V14)
Witness the fitness – Cova de Ocell (ESP ) – January 13, 2019 – flashed [18]
Hide and Sick – Maltatal (AUT ) – March 25, 2018
Off the Wagon - Val Bavona (CHE ) January 10, 2020
See also [ edit ]
References [ edit ]
^ Franz Schiassi (September 18, 2012). planetmountain.com (ed.). "Campionati del Mondo di arrampicata sportiva 2012, tutti i risultati da Parigi" . Retrieved September 18, 2012 .
^ "Jain Kim and Jakob Schubert win the Lead World Cup 2014" . PlanetMountain.com . 2014-10-28. Retrieved 2022-09-04 .
^ "Jakob Schubert and Alexander Megos qualify for the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo" . LACRUX Klettermagazin . 19 August 2019. Retrieved 18 July 2021 .
^ "LEAD RECORDS BROKEN BY MORI AND SCHUBERT IN BERN" . August 6, 2023. Retrieved August 13, 2023 .
^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships 2023: Jakob Schubert adds combined boulder and lead title to lead gold in Bern" . August 12, 2023. Retrieved August 13, 2023 .
^ IFSC , ed. (August 20, 2019). "World Cup Rankings" . Retrieved August 20, 2019 .
^ a b c d e f IFSC , ed. (August 20, 2019). "Schubert's profile and rankings" . Retrieved August 20, 2019 .
^ a b c d e f g h i "Jakob Schubert proposes 9c for B.I.G. at Flatanger" . PlanetMountain . 28 September 2023. Retrieved 28 September 2023 .
^ planetmountain.com, ed. (January 2, 2015). "Jakob Schubert ripete Fight or Flight 9b a Oliana in Spagna" . Retrieved February 19, 2015 .
^ planetmountain.com, ed. (April 28, 2011). "Jakob Schubert e Gabriele Moroni scatenati" . Retrieved December 22, 2011 .
^ a b up-climbing.com, ed. (January 3, 2013). "Realizzazioni spagnole per Schubert e Midtboe" . Archived from the original on April 12, 2013. Retrieved January 5, 2013 .
^ up-climbing.com, ed. (November 27, 2011). "9a per Jakob Schubert" . Archived from the original on 2011-12-26. Retrieved December 22, 2011 .
^ up-climbing.com, ed. (June 2, 2010). "Jakob Schubert – 9a" . Retrieved December 22, 2011 . [permanent dead link ]
^ up-climbing.com, ed. (April 25, 2011). "Jakob Schubert 8c onsight" . Archived from the original on 2016-03-07. Retrieved December 22, 2011 .
^ "Instagram" . www.instagram.com . Retrieved 2023-12-21 .
^ "Jakob Schubert flashes 8B+ boulder Catalan Witness the Fitness" . PlanetMountain.com . 13 January 2018. Retrieved 2019-03-29 .
External links [ edit ]
Austria
R e t r i e v e d f r o m " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Jakob_Schubert&oldid=1232204215 "
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