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Contents

   



(Top)
 


1 Climbing career  



1.1  Competition climbing  





1.2  Rock climbing  







2 Rankings  



2.1  Climbing World Cup  





2.2  Climbing World Championships  





2.3  Climbing European Championships  







3 Number of medals in the Climbing European Youth Cup  



3.1  Lead  







4 Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup  



4.1  Lead  





4.2  Bouldering  







5 Notable ascents  



5.1  Redpointed routes  





5.2  Onsighted routes  





5.3  Boulder problems  







6 See also  





7 References  





8 External links  














Jakob Schubert






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Jakob Schubert
Personal information
NationalityAustrian
Born (1990-12-31) December 31, 1990 (age 33)
Innsbruck, Austria
OccupationProfessional sport climber
Height176 cm (5 ft 9 in)
Weight63 kg (139 lb)
Websitehttps://www.jakob-schubert.com
Climbing career
Type of climber
  • Sport climbing
  • Bouldering
  • Highest grade
  • On-sight8c (5.14b)
  • Known for
    • Three times World Cup (lead) winner (2011, 2014, 2018)
  • Four times World (lead) Champion (2012, 2018, 2021, 2023)
  • Most men's IFSC Gold Medals
  • First ascents
    • Companion of Change (9a+, 2015)
  • Kein Licht Kein Schatten (9a, 2016)
  • B.I.G. (9c, 2023)
  • Medal record

    Men's competition climbing
    Representing  Austria
    Olympic Games
    Bronze medal – third place 2020 Tokyo Combined
    World Championships
    Gold medal – first place 2012 Paris Lead
    Gold medal – first place 2018 Innsbruck Lead
    Gold medal – first place 2018 Innsbruck Combined
    Gold medal – first place 2021 Moscow Lead
    Gold medal – first place 2023 Bern Lead
    Gold medal – first place 2023 Bern Combined
    Silver medal – second place 2011 Arco Lead
    Silver medal – second place 2016 Paris Lead
    Silver medal – second place 2019 Hachiōji Bouldering
    Silver medal – second place 2019 Hachiōji Combined
    Bronze medal – third place 2019 Hachiōji Lead
    World Cup
    Winner 2011 Lead
    Winner 2011 Combined
    Winner 2012 Combined
    Winner 2013 Combined
    Winner 2014 Lead
    Third place 2015 Lead
    Second place 2016 Lead
    Second place 2016 Combined
    Winner 2018 Lead
    Winner 2018 Combined
    World Youth Championships
    Gold medal – first place 2007 Youth Lead
    Gold medal – first place 2008 Juniors Lead
    Gold medal – first place 2009 Juniors Lead
    Silver medal – second place 2005 Youth Lead
    Silver medal – second place 2006 Youth Lead
    European Championships
    Gold medal – first place 2022 Munich Combined
    Bronze medal – third place 2010 Lead
    Bronze medal – third place 2013 Bouldering
    Bronze medal – third place 2017 Lead
    Updated on August 5, 2021

    Jakob Schubert (born December 31, 1990) is an Austrian professional rock climber, specializing in competition climbing (lead and boulder), sport climbing, and bouldering. He was four times World Champion (2012, 2018, 2021, 2023) and three times World Cup winner (2011, 2014, 2018) in lead climbing. In August 2021, he won bronze at the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo. As of the end of 2022, Schubert had won the most men's IFSC gold medals of any male competition climber in history. In addition to competition climbing, Schubert is the only climber in the world to have redpointeda9c (5.15d) graded sport climbing route and climbed a 9A (V17) graded bouldering problem.

    Climbing career[edit]

    Competition climbing[edit]

    Schubert started competition climbing in 2003 when he was twelve years old. In 2004, he participated in the European Youth Cup and World Youth Championships. Since 2007, he regularly participates in World Cup competitions for lead climbing. For seven World Cup seasons out of ten, from 2007 to 2016, he also competed in bouldering.[citation needed]

    In 2011, he won the Lead World Cup and the silver medal at the Lead World Championships in Arco.[1] The World Cup was outstandingly obtained by winning seven consecutive competitions in that season. Previously, no climber was ever able to win as many World Cup competitions in a single season (in 2002, Alexandre Chabot had won six).[2]

    In 2012, he won the Lead Climbing World Championships in Paris.[3]

    In 2014, he won the Lead World Cup for the second time.[4]

    In 2018, when he was 27 years old, he became World Champion again, in his own birthplace and hometown, Innsbruck. He earned the title by reaching in the final event the same score as Adam Ondra (36+), but a higher score in the semifinal, where he ranked second after Domen Škofic. A few days later, in the same competition, he also conquered the Combined title by ranking second in Speed, first in Bouldering, and second in Lead. In the same year, he was awarded his third World Cup.[citation needed]

    Schubert's performance at the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships qualified him for a place at the Tokyo 2020 Olympics[5] where he won Bronze.

    Schubert won the lead event at the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Championships, becoming the oldest world champion in the sport,[6] and he followed that up by winning the combined event which qualifies him for the 2024 Summer OlympicsinParis.[7]

    Rock climbing[edit]

    Rankings[edit]

    Jakob Schubert at the World Cup in Munich, 2012.

    Climbing World Cup[edit]

    Discipline[8] 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018
    Lead 26 7 4 2 1 3 2 1 3 2 6 1
    Bouldering 60 65 19 3 2 - 25 23 10 9
    Speed - - - - - 43 59 - - - - 59
    Combined - - 4 2 1 1 1 - 4 2 6 1

    Climbing World Championships[edit]

    Youth[9]

    Discipline 2004
    Youth B
    2005
    Youth B
    2006
    Youth A
    2007
    Youth A
    2008
    Juniors
    2009
    Juniors
    Lead 33 2 2 1 1 1

    Adult[9]

    Discipline 2009 2011 2012 2014 2016 2018 2019 2021 2023
    Lead 26 2 1 5 2 1 3 1 1
    Bouldering - - - - - 10 2 27 12
    Speed - - - - - 110 59 - -
    Combined - - - - - 1 2 - 1

    Climbing European Championships[edit]

    Discipline[9] 2008 2010 2013 2015 2017
    Lead 6 3 7 6 3
    Bouldering - - 3 4 -
    Speed - - 35 27 31

    Number of medals in the Climbing European Youth Cup[edit]

    Lead[edit]

    Season[9] Category Gold Silver Bronze Total
    2004 Youth B 1 1
    2005 Youth B 1 1
    2006 Youth A 3 1 1 5
    Total 3 1 3 7

    Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup[edit]

    Lead[edit]

    Season[9] Gold Silver Bronze Total
    2008 1 1
    2009 1 1 2
    2010 1 2 1 4
    2011 7 1 1 9
    2012 1 3 1 5
    2013 2 2 1 5
    2014 2 1 2 5
    2015 2 2 4
    2016 2 3 5
    2017 2 1 3
    2018 2 3 5
    2019 1 1
    2020 1 1
    2021 1 1
    2023 1 1 2
    2024 1 1
    Total 21 17 16 54

    Bouldering[edit]

    Season[9] Gold Silver Bronze Total
    2011 1 1
    2012 1 1 2
    2013 1 1 1 3
    2018 1 1
    2019 1 1 2
    2021 1 1
    2024 1 1
    Total 3 2 6 11

    Notable ascents[edit]

    Redpointed routes[edit]

    9c (5.15d):

    9b+ (5.15c):

    9b (5.15b):

    9a+ (5.15a)

    • Es PontàsMallorca (ESP) – October, 2021 – Fourth ascent of Chris Sharma's 2006 route.
    • CatxasaSanta Linya (ESP) – January 9, 2018 – Second ascent after Chris Sharma
    • Seleccio AnalOliana (ESP) – January 8, 2017
    • PachamamaOliana (ESP) – January 2, 2017 – Third ascent (first by Chris Sharma, 2009)
    • Joe MamaOliana (ESP) – December 27, 2016 – Second ascent after Chris Sharma
    • Kangroo LimbFlatanger (NOR) – May 29, 2016 – Second ascent after Adam Ondra
    • Companion of ChangeZillertal (AUT) – November 18, 2015 – First ascent
    • PapichuloOliana (ESP) – April 27, 2011 – Sixth ascent (first by Chris Sharma, 2008)[12]

    9a (5.14d):

    • Kein Licht Kein SchattenÖtztal (AUT) – November 8, 2016 – First ascent
    • KraftplatzlBerglsteiner See (AUT) – October 15, 2016 – Second Ascent after David Lama
    • Direct open your mindSanta Linya (ESP) – January 3, 2013
    • Fuck the System – Santa Linya (ESP)- January 2, 2013[13]
    • Analogica Natural – Santa Linya (ESP) – January 2, 2013[13]
    • Seleccio Natural – Santa Linya (ESP) – December 28, 2012
    • Ciudad de Dios – Santa Linya (ESP) – December 24, 2012
    • Martin KrpanMisja Pec (SVN) – November 21, 2011[14]
    • HadesNassereith, Götterwand (AUT) – May 30, 2010 – First ascent by Andreas Bindhammer, 2008[15]
    • Underground – Massone, Arco (ITA) – March 30, 2010 – First ascent by Manfred Stuffer, 1998

    Onsighted routes[edit]

    8c (5.14b):

    Boulder problems[edit]

    9A (V17)
    8C (V15)
    • Sierra Madre – Zillertal (AUT) – November 20, 2018
    8B+ (V14)
    • Witness the fitness – Cova de Ocell (ESP) – January 13, 2019 – flashed [18]
    • Hide and Sick – Maltatal (AUT) – March 25, 2018
    • Off the Wagon - Val Bavona (CHE) January 10, 2020

    See also[edit]

    References[edit]

    1. ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (November 28, 2011). "Puigblanque re di Spagna, insieme a Eiter, Kim e Markovic". Retrieved December 23, 2011.
  • ^ climbmagazine.com, ed. (October 22, 2011). "Record 7 World Cup wins". Archived from the original on July 23, 2012. Retrieved April 15, 2012.
  • ^ Franz Schiassi (September 18, 2012). planetmountain.com (ed.). "Campionati del Mondo di arrampicata sportiva 2012, tutti i risultati da Parigi". Retrieved September 18, 2012.
  • ^ "Jain Kim and Jakob Schubert win the Lead World Cup 2014". PlanetMountain.com. 2014-10-28. Retrieved 2022-09-04.
  • ^ "Jakob Schubert and Alexander Megos qualify for the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo". LACRUX Klettermagazin. 19 August 2019. Retrieved 18 July 2021.
  • ^ "LEAD RECORDS BROKEN BY MORI AND SCHUBERT IN BERN". August 6, 2023. Retrieved August 13, 2023.
  • ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships 2023: Jakob Schubert adds combined boulder and lead title to lead gold in Bern". August 12, 2023. Retrieved August 13, 2023.
  • ^ IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
  • ^ a b c d e f IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "Schubert's profile and rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
  • ^ a b c d e f g h i "Jakob Schubert proposes 9c for B.I.G. at Flatanger". PlanetMountain. 28 September 2023. Retrieved 28 September 2023.
  • ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (January 2, 2015). "Jakob Schubert ripete Fight or Flight 9b a Oliana in Spagna". Retrieved February 19, 2015.
  • ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (April 28, 2011). "Jakob Schubert e Gabriele Moroni scatenati". Retrieved December 22, 2011.
  • ^ a b up-climbing.com, ed. (January 3, 2013). "Realizzazioni spagnole per Schubert e Midtboe". Archived from the original on April 12, 2013. Retrieved January 5, 2013.
  • ^ up-climbing.com, ed. (November 27, 2011). "9a per Jakob Schubert". Archived from the original on 2011-12-26. Retrieved December 22, 2011.
  • ^ up-climbing.com, ed. (June 2, 2010). "Jakob Schubert – 9a". Retrieved December 22, 2011.[permanent dead link]
  • ^ up-climbing.com, ed. (April 25, 2011). "Jakob Schubert 8c onsight". Archived from the original on 2016-03-07. Retrieved December 22, 2011.
  • ^ "Instagram". www.instagram.com. Retrieved 2023-12-21.
  • ^ "Jakob Schubert flashes 8B+ boulder Catalan Witness the Fitness". PlanetMountain.com. 13 January 2018. Retrieved 2019-03-29.
  • External links[edit]

  • flag Austria

  • Retrieved from "https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Jakob_Schubert&oldid=1232204215"

    Categories: 
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