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Contents

   



(Top)
 


1 Etymology  





2 Geography  



2.1  Protected areas  







3 Climbing routes  





4 Climbing history  



4.1  Early reconnaissances and attempts  





4.2  First ascent  





4.3  Other notable ascents  







5 Tourism  





6 In myth  





7 In literature  





8 Further reading  





9 See also  





10 References  





11 External links  














Kangchenjunga






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Coordinates: 27°4209N 88°0848E / 27.70250°N 88.14667°E / 27.70250; 88.14667
 

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
 

(Redirected from Mount Khangchendzonga)

Kangchenjunga
Nepali: कञ्चनजङ्घा, romanized: Kanchanjanghā
Kangchenjunga from Pelling, Sikkim, India
Highest point
Elevation8,586 m (28,169 ft)[1]
Ranked 3rd
Prominence3,922 m (12,867 ft)[2]
Ranked 29th
Listing
  • Seven Third Summits
  • List of mountains in India
  • List of mountains in Nepal
  • Country high point (India)
  • Ultra-prominent peak
  • Coordinates27°42′09N 88°08′48E / 27.70250°N 88.14667°E / 27.70250; 88.14667[2]
    Geography
    Kangchenjunga is located in Sikkim
    Kangchenjunga

    Kangchenjunga

    Location of Kangchenjunga

    Kangchenjunga is located in Koshi Province
    Kangchenjunga

    Kangchenjunga

    Kangchenjunga (Koshi Province)

    Kangchenjunga is located in India
    Kangchenjunga

    Kangchenjunga

    Kangchenjunga (India)

    Kangchenjunga is located in Nepal
    Kangchenjunga

    Kangchenjunga

    Kangchenjunga (Nepal)

    Location
  • Mangan district, Sikkim, India[2]
  • Parent rangeHimalayas
    Climbing
    First ascent25 May 1955 by Joe Brown and George Band on the 1955 British Kangchenjunga expedition
    (First winter ascent 11 January 1986 by Jerzy Kukuczka and Krzysztof Wielicki)[3][4]
    Easiest routeglacier/snow/ice climb

    Kangchenjunga, also spelled Kanchenjunga, Kanchanjanghā and Khangchendzonga, is the third-highest mountain in the world. Its summit lies at 8,586 m (28,169 ft) in a section of the Himalayas, the Kangchenjunga Himal, which is bounded in the west by the Tamur River, in the north by the Lhonak River and Jongsang La, and in the east by the Teesta River. It lies in the border region between Koshi ProvinceofNepal and Sikkim state of India, with three of the five peaks, namely Main, Central and South, directly on the border, and the peaks West and Kangbachen in Nepal's Taplejung District.

    Until 1852, Kangchenjunga was assumed to be the highest mountain in the world, but calculations and measurements by the Great Trigonometrical Survey of India in 1849 showed that Mount Everest, known as Peak XV at the time, is actually higher. After allowing for further verification of all calculations, it was officially announced in 1856 that Kangchenjunga is the third-highest mountain of the world.

    The Kangchenjunga is a sacred mountain in Nepal and Sikkim and was first climbed on 25 May 1955 by Joe Brown and George Band, who were part of the 1955 British Kangchenjunga expedition. They stopped just short of the true summit, keeping a promise given to Tashi Namgyal, the Chogyal of the Kingdom of Sikkim, that the top of the mountain would remain inviolate. The Indian side of the mountain is off-limits to climbers. In 2016, the adjoining Khangchendzonga National Park was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

    Etymology[edit]

    Kangchenjunga is the official spelling adopted by Douglas Freshfield, Alexander Mitchell Kellas and the Royal Geographical Society that gives the best indication of the Tibetan pronunciation. Freshfield referred to the spelling used by the Indian Government since the late 19th century.[5] Alternative spellings include Kanchenjunga, Khangchendzonga and Kangchendzönga.[6][7][8]

    The brothers Hermann, Adolf and Robert Schlagintweit explained the local name 'Kanchinjínga' meaning "The five treasures of the high snow" as originating from the Tibetan word "gangs" pronounced [kaŋ] meaning snow, ice; "chen" pronounced [tɕen] meaning great; "mdzod" meaning treasure; "lnga" meaning five.[9] Local Lhopo people believe that the treasures are hidden but reveal themselves to the devout when the world is in peril; the treasures comprise salt, gold, turquoise and precious stones, sacred scriptures, invincible armor or ammunition, grain and medicine.[10]

    Geography[edit]

    Panorama of the Kangchenjunga massif from Tiger Hill, Darjeeling

    The Kangchenjunga Himal section of the Himalayas lies both in Nepal and India and encompasses 16 peaks over 7,000 m (23,000 ft). In the north, it is limited by the Lhonak Chu, Goma Chu and Jongsang La, and in the east by the Teesta River. The western limit runs from the Jongsang La down the Gingsang and Kangchenjunga glaciers and the rivers of Ghunsa and Tamur.[5][1] It lies in the border region between Koshi ProvinceofNepal and Sikkim state of India, with the peaks West and Kangbachen in Nepal's Taplejung District,[11] and three of the five peaks, namely Main, Central and South, directly on the border.[12]

    Kanchenjunga rises about 20 km (12 mi) south of the general alignment of the Great Himalayan range about 125 km (78 mi) east-southeast of Mount Everest as the crow flies. South of the southern face of Kanchenjunga runs the 3,000–3,500 m (9,800–11,500 ft) high Singalila Ridge that separates Sikkim from Nepal and northern West Bengal.[13] Until 1852, Kangchenjunga was assumed to be the highest mountain in the world, but calculations and measurements by the Great Trigonometrical Survey of India in 1849 showed that Mount Everest, known as Peak XV at the time, is actually higher. After allowing for further verification of all calculations, it was officially announced in 1856 that Kangchenjunga was the third-highest mountain[14] after Everest and K2 of Karakoram.[15]

    Kangchenjunga and its satellite peaks form a huge mountain massif.[16] The massif's five highest peaks are listed in the following table.

    Name of peak Height Coordinates Prominence Nearest Higher Neighbour Location
    meters Fts meters Fts
    Kangchenjunga Main[2] 8,586 28,169 27°42′11N 88°08′52E / 27.70306°N 88.14778°E / 27.70306; 88.14778 3,922 12,867 Mount Everest – South Summit Mangan district, Sikkim, India / Taplejung, Koshi Province, Nepal
    Yalung Kang (Kangchenjunga West)[17] 8,505 27,904 27°42′18N 88°08′12E / 27.70500°N 88.13667°E / 27.70500; 88.13667 135 443 Kangchenjunga Taplejung, Koshi Province, Nepal
    Kangchenjunga Central[18] 8,482 27,828 27°41′46N 88°09′04E / 27.69611°N 88.15111°E / 27.69611; 88.15111 32 105 Kangchenjunga South Mangan district, Sikkim, India / Taplejung, Koshi Province, Nepal
    Kangchenjunga South[19] 8,494 27,867 27°41′30N 88°09′15E / 27.69167°N 88.15417°E / 27.69167; 88.15417 119 390 Kangchenjunga Mangan district, Sikkim, India / Taplejung, Koshi Province, Nepal
    Kangbachen[20] 7,903 25,928 27°42′42N 88°06′30E / 27.71167°N 88.10833°E / 27.71167; 88.10833 103 337 Kangchenjunga West Taplejung, Koshi Province, Nepal
    Kangchenjunga map by Garwood, 1903[5]
    Southwest (Yalung) face of Kangchenjunga seen from Nepal

    The main ridge of the massif runs from north-northeast to south-southwest and forms a watershed to several rivers.[16] Together with ridges running roughly from east to west they form a giant cross.[5] These ridges contain a host of peaks between 6,000 and 8,586 m (19,685 and 28,169 ft). The northern section includes Yalung Kang, Kangchenjunga Central and South, Kangbachen, Kirat Chuli and Gimmigela Chuli, and runs up to the Jongsang La. The eastern ridge in Sikkim includes Siniolchu. The southern section runs along the Nepal–Sikkim border and includes Kabru I to III.[1] This ridge extends southwards to the Singalila Ridge.[21] The western ridge culminates in the Kumbhakarna, also known as Jannu.[1]

    Four main glaciers radiate from the peak, pointing roughly to the northeast, southeast, northwest and southwest. The Zemu glacier in the northeast and the Talung glacier in the southeast drain to the Teesta River; the Yalung glacier in the southwest and the Kangchen glacier in the northwest drain to the Arun and Kosi rivers.[22] The glaciers spread over the area above approximately 5,000 m (16,000 ft), and the glacialized area covers about 314 km2 (121 sq mi) in total.[23] There are 120 glaciers in the Kanchenjunga Himal, of which 17 are debris-covered. Between 1958 and 1992, more than half of 57 examined glaciers had retreated, possibly due to rising of air temperature.[24]

    Kangchenjunga Main is the highest elevation of the Brahmaputra River basin, which forms part of the southeast Asian monsoon regime and is among the globally largest river basins.[25] Kangchenjunga is one of six peaks above 8,000 m (26,000 ft) located in the basin of the Kosi River, which is among the largest tributaries of the Ganges.[26] The Kangchenjunga massif forms also part of the Ganges Basin.[27]

    Although it is the third highest peak in the world, Kangchenjunga is only ranked 29thbytopographic prominence, a measure of a mountain's independent stature. The key col for Kangchenjunga lies at a height of 4,664 metres (15,302 ft), along the watershed boundary between Arun and Brahmaputra rivers in Tibet.[28] It is, however, the fourth-most-prominent peak in the Himalayas, after Everest, and the western and eastern anchors of the Himalaya, Nanga Parbat and Namcha Barwa, respectively.[29]

    Protected areas[edit]

    The Kangchenjunga landscape is a complex of three distinct ecoregions: the eastern Himalayan broad-leaved and coniferous forests, the Eastern Himalayan alpine shrub and meadows and the Terai-Duar savanna and grasslands.[30] The Kangchenjunga transboundary landscape is shared by Nepal, India, Bhutan and China, and comprises 14 protected areas with a total of 6,032 km2 (2,329 sq mi):[31]

    These protected areas are habitats for many globally significant plant species such as rhododendrons and orchids and many endangered flagship species such as snow leopard (Panthera uncia), Asian black bear (Ursus thibetanus), red panda (Ailurus fulgens), white-bellied musk deer (Moschus leucogaster), blood pheasant (Ithaginis cruentus) and chestnut-breasted partridge (Arborophila mandellii).[31]

    Climbing routes[edit]

    Kanchenjunga-north from base camp in Nepal

    There are four climbing routes to reach the summit of Kangchenjunga, three of which are in Nepal from the southwest, northwest, and northeast, and one from northeastern Sikkim in India. To date, the northeastern route from Sikkim has been successfully used only three times. The Indian government has banned expeditions to Kanchenjunga; therefore, this route has been closed since 2000.[32]

    Climbing history[edit]

    Painting of Kanchinjínga as seen from the Singalila RidgebyHermann Schlagintweit, 1855[33]
    Sunset on Kangchenjunga, 1905[34]
    South face of Kangchenjunga seen from Goecha La, Sikkim at 4,940 m (16,210 ft)
    Kangchenjunga seen from Darjeeling War Memorial
    Kangchenjunga and surrounding peaks at sunset from ISS, December 2019

    Early reconnaissances and attempts[edit]

    First ascent[edit]

    A sign board on the last traversable road to Kangchenjunga
    First ascent reunion of 1990– front (left to right): Neil Mather, John Angelo Jackson, Charles Evans and Joe Brown, and rear (left to right): Tony Streather, Norman Hardie, George Band and Professor John Clegg

    In 1955, Joe Brown and George Band made the first ascent on 25 May, followed by Norman Hardie and Tony Streather on 26 May.[43] The full team also included John Clegg (team doctor), Charles Evans (team leader), John Angelo Jackson, Neil Mather and Tom Mackinnon.[6] The ascent proved that Aleister Crowley's 1905 route (also investigated by the 1954 reconnaissance) was viable. The route starts on the Yalung Glacier to the southwest of the peak, and climbs the Yalung Face, which is 3,000 metres (10,000 ft) high. The main feature of this face is the "Great Shelf", a large sloping plateau at around 7,500 metres (24,600 ft), covered by a hanging glacier. The route is almost entirely on snow, glacier and one icefall; the summit ridge itself can involve a small amount of travel on rock. The first ascent expedition made six camps above their base camp, two below the Shelf, two on it, and two above it. They started on 18 April, and everyone was back to base camp by 28 May.[44] Other members of this expedition included John Angelo Jackson and Tom Mackinnon.[45]

    Other notable ascents[edit]

    Kangchenjunga 3D animation

    Despite improved climbing gear the fatality rate of climbers attempting to summit Kanchenjunga is high. Since the 1990s, more than 20% of people died while climbing Kanchenjunga's main peak.[63]

    Tourism[edit]

    Kanchenjunga as seen from Gangtok, Sikkim

    Because of its remote location in Nepal and the difficulty involved in accessing it from India, the Kangchenjunga region is not much explored by trekkers. It has, therefore, retained much of its pristine beauty. In Sikkim too, trekking into the Kangchenjunga region has just recently been permitted. The Goecha La trek is gaining popularity amongst tourists. It goes to the Goecha La Pass, located right in front of the huge southeast face of Kangchenjunga. Another trek to Green Lake Basin has recently[when?] been opened for trekking. This trek goes to the Northeast side of Kangchenjunga along the famous Zemu Glacier. The film Singalila in the Himalaya is a journey around Kangchenjunga.[citation needed]

    Kangchenjunga sunrise from Jalpaiguri

    In myth[edit]

    Five Treasures of Snow

    The area around Kangchenjunga is said to be home to a mountain deity, called Dzö-nga[64] or "Kangchenjunga Demon", a type of yetiorrakshasa. A British geological expedition in 1925 spotted a bipedal creature which they asked the locals about, who referred to it as the "Kangchenjunga Demon".[65]

    For generations, there have been legends recounted by the inhabitants of the areas surrounding Kanchenjunga, both in Sikkim and in Nepal, that there is a valley of immortality hidden on its slopes. These stories are well known to both the original inhabitants of the area, the Lepcha people and Limbu people, and those of the Tibetan Buddhist cultural tradition. In Tibetan, this valley is known as Beyul Demoshong. In 1962, a Tibetan Lama by the name of Tulshuk Lingpa led over 300 followers into the high snow slopes of Kanchenjunga, to ‘open the way’ to Beyul Demoshong. The story of this expedition is recounted in the 2011 book A Step Away from Paradise.[66]

    Kangchenjunga seen from Tetulia, Panchagarh, Northern Bangladesh

    In literature[edit]

    East face of Kangchenjunga, from near the Zemu Glacier, Sikkim

    Further reading[edit]

    View of Kangchenjunga as seen from Darjeeling
    North face of Kangchenjunga from Pang Pema, Nepal

    The above Himalayan Journal references were all also reproduced in the "50th Anniversary of the First Ascent of Kangchenjunga" The Himalayan Club, Kolkata Section 2005.

    See also[edit]

  • flag India
  • flag Nepal

  • References[edit]

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  • ^ "Expeditions". Mountaineers' Association. 2011. Retrieved 23 October 2017.
  • ^ "5 climbers feared dead on world's 3rd highest peak". NBC News. 2013. Retrieved 14 January 2014.
  • ^ "Bulgarian Mountaineer Boyan Petrov Climbs Kangchenjunga Summit". Novinite. 2014. Retrieved 23 October 2017.
  • ^ "Ace mountaineers from across the country hail Gayen's effort". 2014. Retrieved 1 August 2019.
  • ^ "Indian climber dies in Nepal-hiking official". Reuters. 2022.
  • ^ Hansen, L. (2012). "5 Mountains Deadlier Than Everest". Archived from the original on 23 September 2015.
  • ^ Anna Belikci Denjongpa, Kangchendzönga: Secular and Buddhist perceptions of the mountain deity of Sikkim among the Lhopos
  • ^ "The Abominable Snowman: Bear, Cat or Creature?". myfoxdfw.com. 2010. Archived from the original on 6 August 2010.
  • ^ Shor, Thomas (2017). A Step Away from Paradise. USA: City Lion Press. ISBN 9780999291894.
  • External links[edit]


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