Roger Henri Vivier (13 November 1907 – 2 October 1998)[1] was a French fashion designer who specialized in shoes. He is best known for creating the modern day stiletto heel and for placing a chrome-plated buckle on an elegant black pump, which became a must-have fashion statement for many celebrities and stars in the 50s and 60s.[2][3][4] His namesake label is Roger Vivier (brand).
Orphaned at the age of nine, Vivier studied sculpture at the École des Beaux-Arts in Paris and his compositions exhibited the concern for form and texture characteristic of a sculptor.[5]
Vivier has been called the "Fragonard of the shoe" and his shoes "the Fabergé of Footwear"[6] by numbers of critics. He designed extravagant, richly decorated shoes that he described as sculptures.
The designer became widely known in 1937 thanks to the creation of wedge soles, notably worn by Marlene Dietrich. During the Second World War, while exiled in New York, he made hats. In 1954, after he had returned to France he created what we now think of as the modern stiletto heel.[7] Stiletto heels, the very thin high heel, were invented in the late 19th century, as numerous fetish drawings attest, but Vivier is known for reviving and developing this opulent style by using a thin rod of steel.
Vivier designed shoes for the house of Christian Dior from 1953 to 1963. In addition to the stiletto heel, he also experimented with other shapes, including the comma (inventing the “virgule” heel). He used silk, pearls, beads, lace, appliqué and jewels to create unique decorations for his shoes.
In the 1960s, Vivier also designed silk-satin knee-high boots outlined in jewels, and thigh-high evening boots in a black elastic knit with beads. Perhaps his best known boot design of the decade was the low-heeled, thigh-high, black crocodile boot he produced for Yves Saint Laurent's fall 1963 collection, paired with a Space Age-looking, all-black Saint Laurent ensemble of tights, suede jerkin, short ciré jacket, and helmet-like visored cap and hood.[9] The boots were a variation of a pair Vivier had designed for a Rudolph Nureyev performance of Swan Lake.[10]
^Hannah Shakir (October 2009). "Vivier la Reine!". Glass Magazine. Archived from the original on 17 July 2011. Retrieved 23 October 2009.
^Peake, Andy (2018). "Chapeau Melon et Bottes de Cuir". Made for Walking. Atglen, Pennsylvania: Schiffer Fashion Press. p. 57. ISBN978-0-7643-5499-1. Yves Saint Laurent's fall...1963...visored caps, black leather jerkins, and Roger Vivier's towering cuissardes in black crocodile...gave what [the Daily Mail's Iris] Ashley called 'a real space girl effect...'
^Peake, Andy (2018). "Chapeau Melon et Bottes de Cuir". Made for Walking. Atglen, Pennsylvania: Schiffer Fashion Press. p. 57. ISBN978-0-7643-5499-1. Vivier had originally designed the boots for Rudolph Nureyev's performance as the prince in Swan Lake.
