Competition climbing made its Olympic debut at the 2020 Summer OlympicsinTokyo, Japan. It is governed by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC).
The inclusion was proposed by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) in 2015.[1] In September 2015, competition climbing was included in a shortlist along with baseball, softball, skateboarding, surfing, and karate to be considered for inclusion in the 2020 Summer Olympics;[2] and in June 2016, the executive board of the International Olympic Committee (IOC) announced that they would support the proposal to include all of the shortlisted sports in the 2020 Games.[3] Finally, on August 3, 2016, all five sports (counting baseball and softball together as one sport) were approved for inclusion in the 2020 Olympic program.[4]
At the 2020 Summer Olympics, two climbing events were contested: men's combined and women's combined. The competition format combined three disciplines of competition climbing: competition speed climbing, competition bouldering, and competition lead climbing. This decision caused widespread criticism in the climbing community.[5]
Members of the IFSC explained that they were only granted one gold medal per gender by the Olympic committee, and they did not want to exclude speed climbing. The IFSC's goal for the 2020 Olympics was primarily to establish climbing and its three disciplines as Olympic sports; changes to the format could follow later. This tactic proved to be successful as they were granted a second set of medals for the 2024 Summer Olympics, where speed climbing will be a separate event from the combined event of lead climbing and bouldering.[6][7][8]
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Current program | |||
Event | 2020 | 2024 | Years |
---|---|---|---|
Men's combined | X | X | 2 |
Men's speed | X | 1 | |
Women's combined | X | X | 2 |
Women's speed | X | 1 | |
Events | 2 | 4 |
The following nations have taken part in the Olympic climbing competition. The numbers in the table indicate the number of competitors sent to that year's Olympics.
Nation | 2020 | 2024 | Years |
---|---|---|---|
Australia | 2 | ||
Austria | 2 | ||
Canada | 2 | ||
China | 2 | ||
Czech Republic | 1 | ||
France | 4 | ||
Germany | 2 | ||
Great Britain | 1 | ||
Italy | 3 | ||
Japan | 4 | ||
Kazakhstan | 1 | ||
Poland | 1 | ||
ROC | 3 | ||
Slovenia | 2 | ||
South Africa | 2 | ||
South Korea | 2 | ||
Spain | 1 | ||
Switzerland | 1 | ||
United States | 4 | ||
Nations | 19 | ||
Climbers | 40 | ||
Year | 2020 | 2024 |
Event | Round | Climber | Nation | Time | Games | Date | Record |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Men's combined (speed) | Qualification | Bassa Mawem | France | 5.45 | 2020 Tokyo | 3 August 2021 | OR[9] |
Women's combined (speed) | Qualification | Aleksandra Mirosław | Poland | 6.97 | 2020 Tokyo | 4 August 2021 | OR[10] |
Final | Aleksandra Mirosław | Poland | 6.84 | 2020 Tokyo | 6 August 2021 | WR[11] |
Rank | Nation | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Slovenia (SLO) | 1 | 0 | 0 | 1 |
Spain (ESP) | 1 | 0 | 0 | 1 | |
3 | Japan (JPN) | 0 | 1 | 1 | 2 |
4 | United States (USA) | 0 | 1 | 0 | 1 |
5 | Austria (AUT) | 0 | 0 | 1 | 1 |
Totals (5 entries) | 2 | 2 | 2 | 6 |
Games | Gold | Silver | Bronze |
---|---|---|---|
2020 Tokyo details |
Alberto Ginés López Spain |
Nathaniel Coleman United States |
Jakob Schubert Austria |
2024 Paris details |
Games | Gold | Silver | Bronze |
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2024 Paris details |
Games | Gold | Silver | Bronze |
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2020 Tokyo details |
Janja Garnbret Slovenia |
Miho Nonaka Japan |
Akiyo Noguchi Japan |
2024 Paris details |
Games | Gold | Silver | Bronze |
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2024 Paris details |
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